Amarok DPF issues

[daniel8810]

I have a new 2020 V6 TDI580

Every so often, as you stated-

70km/hr in 4th or D for Atleast 25 min is what the car needs to do,

We call it a cycle. I have worked for Audi and vw and have seen this issue many times. The DPF needs to do a “burn off” and clear the black dirty soot from the exhaust [emoji100][emoji100][emoji100]

The blocked exhaust system is dangerous to the system/engine and needs to be removed from the system by this “burn off”


I’ve put it simply. As you may know Toyota hilux has the other issue with the DPF.

Not a good thing for these cars to be driven short distances... all the time.


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[daniel8810]

I note here everyone is comparing their different models-

Have to remember no vehicle is the same and Volkswagen is special.

Different engines/models perform differently


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[jasone19]

Thanks Lucas_R for the info. I have just ordered the Carissa ODBR device.

[yoshifusa]

Hi All,

I too am suffering DPF issues with the Amarok V6. Our Amarok is in the dealer for the 6^th time, only 50,000km on the clock. Both the dealers and VW Australia couldn’t give two hoots about this problem, and are unwilling to acknowledge the problem, or fix it. They will only take action if we act as a group. Contact me if you would like to be part of this action – yoshifusa7@gmail.com
We can act in a number of ways if we get enough people together:

• Class action
• Complaint to relevant government consumer protection organisation(s)
• Social media campaign

Toyota only addressed their vehicles DFP problems after group action was taken. This is what needs to happen with VW.
I also drive a Hilux and a Captiva. Both with many more kms. Neither have had DFP problems. The Hilux toddles around site and hardly gets over 10km/h. It is not the way you drive it, there is a design fault with the V6 Amarok which VW are unwilling to acknowledge. It is too easy for VW to say to the individual ‘it is the way you drive it’. But they cannot deny the problem if we act as a group.
I have recently bought a scanner tool to try and diagnose the problem myself. Here is what I have found:

• The DPF active regeneration is triggered by the value ‘soot mass calculated’. This value is made up of the ‘soot mass measured’ and presumably other measurements like mass flow and temperature. When the ‘soot mass measured’ is more than 10g away from ‘soot mass calculated’ the latter jumps up to the ‘measured’ level ignoring all other calculation factors. Normally ‘soot mass calculated’ jumps to a level where active regeneration is triggered. However when ‘soot mass calculated’ is near the active regeneration level I suspect ‘soot mass calculated’ jumps through the active regeneration level straight into limp mode.
• The DFP filter light comes on for a couple of seconds (if at all), before going straight into limp mode.
• The active regeneration is very efficient. Doesn’t matter if you are idling, or driving on the freeway, soot mass is reduced. Driving faster does reduce soot mass quicker, although regardless of car driving profile DPF soot is reduced successfully.
• Our Amarok never gets hot enough to passively regenerate. Soot mass is always accumulated regardless of driving profile. Highway driving or toddling around the suburbs requires active regeneration about every 250-300km.
• Active regeneration occurs regardless of fuel tank level. I’ve seen active regens with less that ¼ tank of fuel. I’ve seen the car go straight to limp mode with a near full tank of fuel.

VW say that driving profile and fuel tank level are the problem, but from what I have witnessed this simply isn’t true. Just shows you they don’t even know their own cars, and are not even attempting to fix the problem, just pushing it back on the consumer.

[Mish82]

Display info

Hi,

How did you get all that info to appear on your radio screen ?

[Mish82]

Does anyone know what android app and OBD module works with the Amaroks so I can bring the details up on Android auto like Jeromeos photo of the app that he was using?

[Lucas_R]

Funnily enough I went to my VW specialist mechanic yesterday for a pink slip and he had 2x identical V6 Amaroks in there for forced DPF regens due to limp mode. The owner of one of them was waiting and told me he has had to come to the mechanic a handful of times now for the same reason. So I told him about Carista and VAG DPF and he was quite interested. The fact that you can do your own forced regen (via the Carista app) which saves you a trip to the mechanic, as well as using the VAG DPF app to keep an eye on when the cars DPF is getting full so you can take it for a proper drive to let it run the regen procedure. The low cost app and dongle pay for themselves in no time from a financial point of view, let alone saving you time not having to go to the mechanic for this basic process.

[Lucas_R]

Does anyone know what android app and OBD module works with the Amaroks so I can bring the details up on Android auto like Jeromeos photo of the app that he was using?

This is the info he provided

The last screen shot is using torque and custom Pids.





But VAG DPF definitely works, you have to use engine 10.

[jeromeo]

You need a little program called OBD2AA to use with Android auto.
But its not really straightforward to use.
Little bit buggy doesn't always start at first go.

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[Newkidontheblok]

17k on my V6 manual and no problems...until I ventured from Sydney to Kangaroo Island towing a camper. Not once, but twice, once on the way there and once on the way back, I got DPF, flashing coil light, engine light and limp mode all at the same time and under exactly the same circumstances and in the same location!
Slowing down at Hay to negotiate the roundabout that now has a bike jump built into it, all the lights came on. Both on the way there and on the way back. 110 kph in either direction for two hours easy.
Couldn't beg, borrow or steal an obd reader to analyse what was going on so just figured it out by logic. Unhitched the camper, did a restart and took the ute out on the highway. 7 mins later the DPF light went out although MIL light was a bit more persistent. Cleared the codes with my $45 Autel 319 when I got back. Great gadget. Plugs in so no wifi or bluetooth issues. Doesn't need internet. Free downloads for life with the codes it would seem. Haven't had to pay yet. Does live streaming, freeze frame, clears codes. Doesn't have the advanced functions of VGA DPF but I'm working on that. My EDM 127 or whatever connector doesn't support the necessary protocols for VGA DPF. But in the meantime, the Autel product is a good backup. It did identify the issue as blocked DPF and restricted air flow (2 codes) and cleared the codes.

[Newkidontheblok]

Worked out the communication protocol issues with VAG DPF. I'll post the pics on the weekend as the light is not much good now for photos.
The ELM327 connector is a $25 Amazon sourced Konnwei Bluetooth 3 network bridge (Dongle). Supports all OBD2 protocols. Posted from Brisbane and arrived in 2 days.
Bluetooth password is 1234.
Set your engine type by trial and error. Default is let ecu select. Didn't work. For the V6TDI, it's class 0. First on the list.
The bluetooth connector is small enough to leave permanently in situ.

[Newkidontheblok]

OK. Haven't got round to uploading those pics yet but in answer to questions about OBD connectivity, your plug in needs to support these communication protocols:
KW903 scantool is a high-quality automotive scanning tool, supports all OBD-II protocols :

0.Automatic

1.SAE J1850 PWM(41.6Kbaud)

2.SAE J1850 VPW(10.4Kbaud

3.ISO9141-2(5 baud init,10.4Kbaud)

4.ISO14230-4 KWP(5 baud init,10.4 Kbaud)

5.ISO14230-4 KWP(fast init,10.4 Kbaud)

6.ISO15765-4 CAN(11bit ID,500 Kbaud)

7.ISO15765-4 CAN(29bit ID,500 Kbaud)

8.ISO15765-4 CAN(11bit ID,250 Kbaud)

9.ISO15765-4 CAN(29bit ID,250 Kbaud)

A.SAE J1939 CAN(29bit ID,250*Kbaud)

B.USER1 CAN(11*bit ID,125*Kbaud)

C.USER2 CAN(11*bit ID,50*kbaud)

In particular the adapter you choose must support ISO 15764 comms protocols. The $20 Konnwei from Amazon does. It's bluetooth III connect so reasonable baud at up to 24 mbps. Once you've paired the konnwei to your phone you are going to need to download VAG DPF onto your phone for $10. Connection type for the Konnwei is bluetooth (1234), select engine type 0 for V6 which are 90% of vehicles from the engine type case statement and you're in! Auto select engine type option doesn't work.

TIP: if you're going bush, or even out of the metro area, carry these essentials. A plug in obd read/writer that doesn't require internet, a 22mm open ended spanner and a can of DPF cleaning foam.
I spent an hour canvassing every mechanic in Hay when my rig went into limp mode and no one would/could assist. I got through it just by doing a reset and giving the engine a bit of a rev to blow enough soot thru to keep it out of limp then let the engine perform an active regen which doesn't get that hot that it's going to crack your dpf. Worked both times that it happened to me but if you get stuck in a country town, let the engine cool to room temp, remove temp sensor which is easily accessible at top of engine, spray in the cleaning foam and let it sit for at least 30. Idle for 20 and you're on your way. It's DIY DPF cleaning. Costs ya $30. Just stay in a van park overnight is my tip.

[Lucas_R]

VAGDPF is handy for seeing what the DPF pressure/temperature/soot level is, but it doesnt allow you to do anything about it. I use to use VAGDPF religiously until Carista did a big update and now you can actually trigger a regen using the app. Since I now have this functionality with Carista I no longer use VAGDPF.

Note Carista shows you the soot level and has an option to trigger a regen - that is all. It does not show you DPF temperatures etc.

[Newkidontheblok]

Yep. I 'm aware that Carista does enable access to forced regen. My son in law offered that option on his workshop computer but I declined the invite. Excessive heat will damage the dpf so if the engine management system can clear the issue using passive/active techniques where temps are probably in the range of 400° which is pizza oven temps, I'll stick with the lower temps and my can of dpf foam cleaner. Haven't had to use the foam yet, touch wood, but that seems safe enough as it works at room temps (10 - 40°C).

[Lucas_R]

Yep. I 'm aware that Carista does enable access to forced regen. My son in law offered that option on his workshop computer but I declined the invite. Excessive heat will damage the dpf so if the engine management system can clear the issue using passive/active techniques where temps are probably in the range of 400° which is pizza oven temps, I'll stick with the lower temps and my can of dpf foam cleaner. Haven't had to use the foam yet, touch wood, but that seems safe enough as it works at room temps (10 - 40°C).

Just to clarify, I only trigger regens with Carista while driving at speed so to ensure good airflow over the DPF's. I've only had to do a forced regen (with the car idling) once to get the car out of limp mode and I was so nervous the whole time that it was going to catch fire or damage the DPF's. I took the DPF's off last Christmas to inspect and clean them and they are still in good condition - cars done 90,000km.

What spray do you use? I used a Penrite P26 DPF cleaner product which you can see here if you are interested: https://www.vwwatercooled.com/forums...ml#post1341893