Oil leak Mk6 GTI

[AdamGTI]

Anyone had oil leaking issues from where oil is injected into cam/VVT. If so, what was the replacement cost?

[Lucas_R]

FYI that is the cam adjuster magnet for the inlet cam.

VW have released an updated part, and it is now made of black plastic - i updated the one on my car about 6 months ago. ECS Tuning sell the part and new electrical plug to suit.

If yours is leaking oil then its likely that one of the 2x rubber o rings/seals have perished and is allowing oil to seep through.

My original metal one was also allowing oil vapour to leak out, but the new updated unit has fixed that.

Link to part on ECS Website

[AdamGTI]

FYI that is the cam adjuster magnet for the inlet cam.

VW have released an updated part, and it is now made of black plastic - i updated the one on my car about 6 months ago. ECS Tuning sell the part and new electrical plug to suit.

If yours is leaking oil then its likely that one of the 2x rubber o rings/seals have perished and is allowing oil to seep through.

My original metal one was also allowing oil vapour to leak out, but the new updated unit has fixed that.

Link to part on ECS Website

Is it difficult to change?

A non-volkswagen mechanic was saying it could cost up to $1000 to fix.

[h100vw]

3 bolts around the edge, not sure I could be bothered to do it, with that level of oil getting out.

$100 USD plus shipping.

Or wipe once in a while? Maybe you could get a new O ring for a couple of bucks?

Gavin

[Lucas_R]

Is it difficult to change?

A non-volkswagen mechanic was saying it could cost up to $1000 to fix.

I'll do it for $999. Easy as pie. Takes about 10 mins and most of that is replacing the electrical plug (the revised magnet uses a different plug).

[AdamGTI]

I'll do it for $999. Easy as pie. Takes about 10 mins and most of that is replacing the electrical plug (the revised magnet uses a different plug).

Nice

So the mechanic i spoke to dont really know too much about VW's.

[VW_Tim]

Either that, or they thought they could make a couple of dollars on you. VW dealer is prob cheaper.

[Lucas_R]

I just realised you are in Newcastle. Give the guys at Twilight Automotive a call and get a price off them.

[The One]

Shouldn't be anymore than half an hours labour including fitting the revised connector..

[Lucas_R]

Buy the part from ECS Tuning or the dealer and give me $50 and ill fit it for you - i did my own earlier this year.

[Reedy]

Did my own easy as except changing the plug and wire connectors. Take your time on getting the old plug off. Should be 30mins job if that. Bought mine from main steelers without the plug as they say there were none in Australia, kindly was given a plug by Lucas_R. ECS is your best bet and buy 2 new connectors just in case.


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[brad]

I had / have a leak from the same area - hopefully now fixed.

I pulled the magnet assembly yesterday and you can see that the o-ring has flattened. I assume it has been heat affected after 150,000km as there are no moving parts.

The original unit doesn't have the mounting plate fully welded to the magnet - there are several long gaps which allow the oil to leak through if the o-ring is weeping. While there is a revised unit that acts as a secondary gasket, I think you can fix the leak using the original silver unit (if it's working).

Tools required:
T30 Torx
and whatever else to gain access & drive the torx. I used a 1/4" drive apex bit holder & a 1/4" drive ratchet.

A screw driver or wide blade to assist levering the magnet out

A pick to remove the o-ring (I use a 90 degree scriber)

Parts required:
o-ring 52 x 3 (mm). This is from VWs' spec and I forgot to measure it but convention is ID and x-section. The original VW partno is N91000101 but possibly that's superseded by WHT007212. I don't know what insane price they are locally but they are about AUD5 overseas. You'll probably find a local bearing place stocks something for less than a dollar. Generic 52x3 o-rings are on ebay for 10 for $3.

Some type of liquid gasket. I used Loktite 515 Master Gasket because I had a 20 year old tube on the shelf but any generic "form-a-gasket" or "gasket-maker" silicone, RTV type product will work.

Some metho, degreaser, petrol, etc to clean all the oil off the mating surfaces.

Some fly wires / electrical probes to test the magnet.

What to do:
disconnect the electrical connector
push any hoses out of the way
undo the 3x torx screws - give them a clean.
Pull the dipstick mount away from the engine about 20mm
Pull the magnet assembly directly out. You may need a wide, flat blade to jolly it along if you have no finger-nails but it won't be super tight.
Clean all the excess oil out with a clean rag.
Remove the o-ring - clean the o-ring groove with clean rag. Maybe use the pick to get right into the corners.
Lubricate the new o-ring and fit it to the o-ring groove - any lube will do - Petroleum jelly, bearing grease, engine oil, etc.
Give the general area a smear of lube too.

Clean the magnet assembly
Connect the flywires to a 12v source (car battery) and touch them to the terminals on the magnet assembly. The piston should come out instantly & fast. If it's slow then use some solvent to clean the internals - there's a small square opening next to the piston. You can grab the piston with your fingernails and actuate it manually to pump out the gunk.

Refit the magnet assembly
Run a small bead (2mm diameter) of sealant in the angle where the magnet is welded to the mounting ring (the thing with the 3 holes). This will act as a secondary gasket to the o-ring and seal up the gaps in the assembly.
Put a thin smear of lubricant on the outer body of the magnet about 10mm wide to help the magnet get past the o-ring.
Fit the magnet assembly to the engine. You have to be dead straight onto the o-ring. Give it a wiggle & a bit of pressure and it should pop straight in.
Replace the 3 torx. Don't forget the dipstick mount. They just need to be nipped up - probably about 20Nm? You'll know how much force it took to undo them.
Clean of any excess sealant - having blobs of it hanging out the side looks unprofessional & doesn't assist in sealing. I use a satay stick with the end cut to a chisel point to remove excess gunk.
Reconnect the electrical connector
Reposition any hoses you moved.

Give the sealant 30m to gel (read instructions)

Start car - road test.

Check for leaks after a few trips.


While you have the sealant & tools, check the cam position sensor on the front of the engine just to the right of the oil filler cap. The o-ring in them tends to leak as well but VW don't sell them.
Same process. Remove, clean, bead of silicone in the angle, refit, remove excess.

[AstroAvia]

Reviving an old thread in order to thank brad for sharing his fix in such a detailed manner and also thank Lucas_R for the info on the new part. I recently bought a B6 Passat and I just found a leak on my camshaft magnet. And now I know it is an easy fix. Thank you, brad and Lucas_R!

[privatepang]

Ah crap i better check my car. Have yet to even look at the dipstick...

[joec]

Mine was leaking after the first service. Was suppose to know yours take this long to leak. Mine has to be fix twice to stop the leak.