30,000KM Servicing Costs.

[Diesel_vert]

Thanks to all for all the good info.

I'm not trying to be cheap on services, I just have a healthy skepticism of all the way (almost) all businesses do their marketing these days, not just VW. If you've watch the excellent "The Checkout" on ABC or "The Men who made us Spend" recently you'll know what I mean.

Just one example, the idea that Australia is harsher than Europe. I mean really.

Many marques are guilty of this, but Mazda is often singled out here.

AFAIK, Mazda Europe's 20 000 km / 12 month service intervals (which does not apply to all European countries) is achieved with a combination of synthetic engine oil (their recommendations essentially amount to as such), the availability of sulfur free fuels (<10 ppm) and the anticipated operating conditions.

If the vehicle is driven under less than ideal conditions, Mazda Europe recommends the engine oil and oil filter be replaced every 10 000 km.

The configuration of their SkyActiv engine is also reportedly different from the rest of the world - I believe our market receives the engine with a reduced compression ratio (along with other changes I'm sure). It is not out of the question that previous engine configurations destined for Europe may have been different as well, which may (or may not) impact its oil change interval.

AFAIK, Mazda Australia does not specify the use of synthetic engine oil and permits the use of regular unleaded petrol (sulfur content of <150 ppm) here. Together with our anticipated operating conditions and the nature of our aftersales industry, they are all contributing factors as to why a maximum service interval of 10 000 km / 12 months is specified for our market (up from 10 000 km / 6 months).

Dumb question: I assume VGA mean VW Group Australia?

Yes.

If it does: Dear Mr VGA, please do something about your Service Schedule booklet, it is terrible. I agree totally with comments above - it's pretty much impossible work out what is due for servicing and when. And if all the points I quoted from the book above don't apply in Australia (pollen filter, brake fluid etc) , then THEY SHOULD NOT BE IN MY BOOKLET. At the very least you have an obligation to make it clear what does apply ... If you want to impose Australian specific scheduling you should provide an Australia specific schedule book, so that people who do care about their car's maintenance (like me) can see what's being done and be sure it's done, and WHY.

I agree that the service schedule booklet could be better.

[Diesel_vert]

Think of Spain / Madrid ... also I'll bet you can buy Euro spec VW's in Northern Africa

One may (or may not) be able to purchase and operate European specification models in Africa, but I would be surprised if the maintenance schedule and service intervals in Africa would be identical to that of the LongLife regime, as practiced in certain European countries.

Think of Eastern Europe for crap roads.
Many many more and steeper mountain roads in Europe (e.g. the Alps). Watch your Oil temparature next time you drive up what we think of as mountains e.g. Barrington Tops, that's engine stress, but imagine the Alps.
Euro Freeway limits 130kph and drivers usually doing 140 - 150 compared to our lazy 110 = more stress.

I do not believe the surface quality of sealed roads would be a significant factor in determining a vehicle's oil change interval per se, but a reduced service interval may sometimes reflect the level of infrastructure (for instance, the availability of sulfur free fuel) in that particular country.

Driving at high engine speeds, near top speed or frequent full throttle acceleration aside, steady state driving on a highway or main road is an operating condition that is more conducive to extended service intervals.

Plus in Australia 95%+ of us live and drive in cities ... with the occasional holiday trip (on good roads @ 100 - 100).

Urban driving would be considered one of the factors which reduce a vehicle's service interval.

Australia has one of the highest urbanisation rates in the world. At just under 90%, it is higher than nearly all EU member states, with only Belgium and Malta having a higher rate. Germany has an urbanisation rate of just 74%.

more drongos with no driving ability and/or training on the roads.

OK, hard to argue that one

I do not think vehicle wear or damage caused by negligent driving or negligent maintenance practices would have a significant effect on the manufacturer determining the service interval for a particular market.

Bottom line: Even big car companies like VW can't afford to design a different car for every slight climate variation. they design their cars for world wide usage. Then test them in all extremes (including arctic and desert conditions) - a very expensive exercise. There are a few differences for each market: e.g. coolants and oils and tyres differ for really cold climates, but AFAIK there is nothing substantially different in the design of an Australian delivered VW to a Euro VW. (other than trivial ADR compliance issues, like child restraints etc)

That is correct, but what you are mostly describing is the manufacturer determining a vehicle's limit of capability or operation.

Determining which operating conditions require what maintenance schedule is different.

I imagine a vehicle operating in extreme conditions may have a service interval of x km, but that same vehicle operating in severe conditions may have a service interval of 1.5x km. That same vehicle again operating in normal conditions may then have a service interval of 2.0x km. If operating under ideal conditions, then it might even be 2.5x km. Under laboratory conditions, it could be 3.0x km. Whatever.

At the end of the day, the vehicle manufacturer will need to compromise and specify a service interval based on their data that will serve the needs of most motorists. As such, Volkswagen have determined that a fixed 15 000 km / 12 month service intervals are the go for our market.

Out of interest, service intervals in the U.S.A. and Canada are also set at 10 000 mi. / 12 months.

Our fuel may be lower RON but once again, VW designed the car to be used world wide. So the car's ECU automatically detects (knock sensor) and compensates for different fuel RON, wherever it is used. That's why we can run on 98 or 95 RON. And if you think our fuel is some how dirty ... the same VW design's are sold in South Africa.

The research octane number (RON) is a measure that is accepted worldwide. In this regard, the Australian fuel standard for premium unleaded petrol (i.e. no less than 95 RON) meets the same requirements as the European fuel standard for unleaded gasoline (also, no less than 95 RON). There is no issue here.

However, the European standard for automotive gasoline and diesel requires fuel to be "sulfur free", which the industry defines as less than 10 ppm.

The Australian standard for diesel meets that requirement, but the Australian standard for petrol does not.

Regular unleaded petrol (no less than 91 RON) may contain up to 150 ppm. Premium unleaded petrol (no less than 95 RON) may contain up to 50 ppm. It is my opinion that this is one of just many, many, many factors which places a limit on how far service intervals may be extended beyond 15 000 km for Volkswagen vehicles in such markets.

[Diesel_vert]

Having said all that, even though the majority of motorists will rely on the manufacturer for service recommendations, one is not legally or morally bound by the manufacturer's service recommendations.

If the vehicle is in one's legal possession, that person is solely responsible for its upkeep and thus they are free to determine what maintenance schedule suits the vehicle's operating conditions best. In practice though, most owners defer to the vehicle manufacturer for advice and recommendations regarding maintenance for their particular market.

However, if a part or component on the vehicle is becomes damaged within the warranty period, as a direct consequence of the vehicle not being maintained as specified, the manufacturer may deny a warranty claim for it. If it is faulty, defective, or even if a direct consequence cannot be established, the manufacturer may still delay or hesitate to approve a warranty claim, or still deny the claim.

What importance or relevance one places that on the ownership experience remains up to the individual, though most owners would consider the prospect of delayed or denied warranty claims as an unacceptably high liability.

Overall, I personally do not consider a 15 000 km / 12 month service interval as being an overly arduous burden on the owner, considering the inherent level of technology in the vehicle and what it offers.

[ninja2]

Ok. I won't even bother explaining about the fuel difference - it's nothing to do with RON.

This is supposed to be a constructive discussion, so please do bother. I'm happy to learn something, even if I'm proven wrong.

I bet you run 92RON....

No. I follow VW's recommendations for fuel. And I actually change my oil more often than VW mandate.

I do care about my car, but I don't like being ripped off by dealers and their mantra that we have to do it their way or the highway.

[Umai Naa!!]

The dealers follow 90% of the manufacturer's recommendations, although do tend to go a step or two further.

Independant guys are usually the same.

[ninja2]

Good info, thanks all.

Best quote I have for my 30K service is $220 in Northern Adelaide, not including pollen filter or brake fluid.

I'll blow the pollen filter clean myself, and go to 3 years before first brake fluid change then every 2 years. (i.e. per the book). Unless I decide to go a few laps of Mallala that is ... (joking!)

One reason for the difference is using Penrite oil that meets VW 504-00 requirement, instead of the equivalent but excessively priced, VW badged oil.

Another big difference: not having to travel across the city only to suffer Solitaire's woeful service department (don't get me started ... )

[Diesel_vert]

As well as filtering dust, pollen and particulates (solids), many Volkswagen cabin filters are also layered with activated carbon, which prevent undesirable odours (gases) from reaching the passenger cabin via a process known as "adsorption".

Once the activated carbon becomes saturated, it can no longer prevent undesirable gases from entering the cabin. Re-activating carbon is not a simple process, so the filter needs to be replaced.

Alternatively, it may continue to be used without the odour adsorping function and be used as a more simple cabin (pollen) filter that only blocks particulates, with the occasional shake out every now and then. Though in general, it is recommended that cabin filters, even without activated carbon, should be replaced at regular intervals for best efficiency.

On a personal note, at around $30 ~ $40 per filter every 2 years, I see great value in taking advantage of the carbon filter as the maker intended.

Brake fluid is hygroscopic, so the higher the humidity level, the sooner it needs replacing. A brake fluid tester that is able to apply the boiling method (which is not an inexpensive device, so not all workshops will be equipped with one) is one the more reliable methods of determining whether the brake fluid needs replacing.

[ninja2]

I like the idea of brake fluid testing, will look into that, thanks.
Also Cavpower (Caterpiller outlet) have an oil analysis service - provides a detailed report at reasonable price.

[brad]

This is supposed to be a constructive discussion, so please do bother. I'm happy to learn something, even if I'm proven wrong.

I'll blow the pollen filter clean myself, and go to 3 years before first brake fluid change then every 2 years. (i.e. per the book).

I think the above statement shows that you aren't willing to be educated or informed.

You're going to stretch out the service life of a pollen filter that can be bought for <$20 delivered? I used to do that on the Subaru but they were $60. I look forward to your future thread on "Help, my AC smells like old socks".

As for the brake fluid.... Your vehicle manufacture date (not compliance date) was when? I recomend you get your mechanic to test the moisture level in the brake fluid reservoir. It's not a hard or expensive test.

Do what you want. It's your car & nobody really cares. Just don't waste peoples time asking for advice that you never intended to take on board.

[Mountainman]

Best quote I have for my 30K service is $220 in Northern Adelaide, not including pollen filter or brake fluid.

That's good. My independent did my 30,000km service for $241 including $10 for front wheel balancing after rotation and using the VW synthetic oil (which cost $90). They charged $109 labour.

[Lucas_R]

I'll blow the pollen filter clean myself

As mentioned above by Brad - the pollen filter can be ordered and delivered to your door for approx $20. Just a few weeks ago i ordered 2x of them from the UK and they were delivered in about a week. This is the filter for a MK6: VW Sharan Tiguan Cabin Pollen Filter Active Carbon Mann Hummel 1K2819653 | eBay

You can "blow" the filter out all you like to remove dust/dirt etc, but you wont get rid of the stench unless you get a new filter.

[brad]

$16 for a no-name
Activated Carbon AIR Filter Fits Volkswagen 1K0819644B 1K0819644 1K0819653A | eBay

[Guest001]

I think the above statement shows that you aren't willing to be educated or informed.

You're going to stretch out the service life of a pollen filter that can be bought for <$20 delivered? I used to do that on the Subaru but they were $60. I look forward to your future thread on "Help, my AC smells like old socks".

As for the brake fluid.... Your vehicle manufacture date (not compliance date) was when? I recomend you get your mechanic to test the moisture level in the brake fluid reservoir. It's not a hard or expensive test.

Do what you want. It's your car & nobody really cares. Just don't waste peoples time asking for advice that you never intended to take on board.

Hip Hip Very well said Brad

[ninja2]

As well as filtering dust, pollen and particulates (solids), many Volkswagen cabin filters are also layered with activated carbon, which prevent undesirable odours (gases) from reaching the passenger cabin via a process known as "adsorption".

Once the activated carbon becomes saturated, it can no longer prevent undesirable gases from entering the cabin. Re-activating carbon is not a simple process, so the filter needs to be replaced.

Alternatively, it may continue to be used without the odour adsorping function and be used as a more simple cabin (pollen) filter that only blocks particulates, with the occasional shake out every now and then. Though in general, it is recommended that cabin filters, even without activated carbon, should be replaced at regular intervals for best efficiency.

On a personal note, at around $30 ~ $40 per filter every 2 years, I see great value in taking advantage of the carbon filter as the maker intended.

I wasn't aware of that aspect Diesel_vert, learn something every day. Do we know if VW use a different filter in Australian cars? If it's the same filter world wide, then I defer to VW's service schedule booklet, page 11, which states "The dust and pollen filter is replaced on vehicles with more than 60,000km in 2 years, except Polo and Up!"

[ninja2]

...the pollen filter can be ordered and delivered to your door for approx $20. Just a few weeks ago i ordered 2x of them from the UK and they were delivered in about a week. This is the filter for a MK6: VW Sharan Tiguan Cabin Pollen Filter Active Carbon Mann Hummel 1K2819653 | eBay

You can "blow" the filter out all you like to remove dust/dirt etc, but you wont get rid of the stench unless you get a new filter.

Thanx Lucas_R. But to be truly honest my car still smells pristine at 2 years and 31,000 km. (then again, maybe my sense of smell is just not wot it used to be )