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Ive read on another forum, that GUY Harding was infact associated as the importer of the oettinger stuff, before he went/became the licenser for APR.
The thread was about how apparently the Oettinger maps were not extremely reliable or something.. and were actually causing detonation? This was on a thread from like 2007 from golfnet or something? It has been a while since that thread so they may be better now.
Dont know If the Oettinger stuff is now still bought in by GUY H and is in addition to the APR stuff.
Corey you bought an Oettinger kit and you sing its praises.. was that from GUY?
Yeah, I got a bunch of Oettinger stuff for my MKV Golf GTI. Whilst I got it via European Autotech at Mona Vale, the distributor was Harding Performance. Oettinger is how I came across APR.
I wouldn't be too concerned about there being a problem with a particular tune in the past. I mean, I could literally pull threads from this site and others to show you all the major tune companies having a serious issue at one point or another - APR, Revo, GIAC etc. That is why you buy the tunes from a well known company, because when issues pop up, they have the resources and know how to resolve it. But one thing I'd say about Oettinger - they can't be too bad if they're willing to offer a drivetrain warranty. I mean, considering the cost of the VW engines and gearboxes (especially the DSG), they must be pretty confident in their tunes
Went for a drive saturday morning after all the heavy rain in Melb and found condensation inside my headlights
Didn't even make 1,000 kms before i had to contact the dealer for warranty work.
Kind of. Oettinger is now owned by APR. As far as Australian tunes go, I understand the extra $$$ goes to a form of warranty offered by Oettinger on what is essentially an APR tune.
Guy Harding may wish to chime in an correct me if I am wrong.
FYI, Oettinger & APR no longer share any financial involvement, Oettinger have new Owners & are continuing along their own development path. They have their own engineers / calibrators & development facility.
The warranty is a big part of the product (and considerable component of the cost).
Gents, is there any software to rid the non switchable ESP on the MKVi's yet?? For me this is a big deal if/when I go for a MKVI.
No. I also don't believe that there will be due to the potential litigation issues of disabling safety features which are now mandatory in some countries, and even some states of Australia!
FYI, Oettinger & APR no longer share any financial involvement, Oettinger have new Owners & are continuing along their own development path. They have their own engineers / calibrators & development facility.
The warranty is a big part of the product (and considerable component of the cost).
But is there a relationship? I notice the Oettinger people like Derek's European Autotech seem to advertise the APR goods along each other.
Thanks, I've been wondering how you do it. I wonder what the effect is of permanently closing it instead of permanently opening it?! hehe
Yeah... I don't really get what the diff is from that video either.
I've just tried this. Yes it's a REALLY SIMPLE mod to do Couldn't notice much of a difference to be honest.
I tried both methods - cable tie & dislocating the actuator pin.
Cable tie:
Slightly deeper bass from the exhaust! Have yet to experience droning as mentioned by others.
I call this the tight arse exhaust mod of the century.
Actuator pin:
The engine sounded like a Subaru boxer! No more exhaust pops. When I switched the engine off and checked the exhaust, the left tailpipe was hot while right one cold. I inspected further and found that the flap was closed in the right tailpipe. Maybe the flap somehow closed while driving. Don't think it's such a good idea as you might be driving with the flap closed all the time if you don't inspect it often enough. Not sure what damage this might cause!
Question:
Does the exhaust come out from the left tailpipe most of the time and is only diverted to the right one upon acceleration?
I have a APR1 + a custom exhaust (Ed - Penrith City Exhaust) - next is the fuel pump. Anyway....i have the dyno figures but do not know how to post - 202kw/393nm at the wheels. My R is like a flippin rocket!!
If you've got the money - just do it...life is to short
Hey Andret,
Those are AMAZING results!
Another fellas STG 2 GOLF R, got 176KWs @the wheels.. So you must be cheering!
Anyway congrats. To upload these picks,
1. go to photo-bucket.com
2. Create account
3. Upload photos
4. Once photos are uploaded, copy the pictures associated "tag" or IMG code.
5. Go to the forum you want and past the IMG line amongst your text.
6. The photos will automatically upload to the forum you posted the IMG code in!
I've just tried this. Yes it's a REALLY SIMPLE mod to do Couldn't notice much of a difference to be honest.
I tried both methods - cable tie & dislocating the actuator pin.
Cable tie:
Slightly deeper bass from the exhaust! Have yet to experience droning as mentioned by others.
I call this the tight arse exhaust mod of the century.
Actuator pin:
The engine sounded like a Subaru boxer! No more exhaust pops. When I switched the engine off and checked the exhaust, the left tailpipe was hot while right one cold. I inspected further and found that the flap was closed in the right tailpipe. Maybe the flap somehow closed while driving. Don't think it's such a good idea as you might be driving with the flap closed all the time if you don't inspect it often enough. Not sure what damage this might cause!
Question:
Does the exhaust come out from the left tailpipe most of the time and is only diverted to the right one upon acceleration?
Thats just too tight for me bro!!
That is something I would do to an old Cordia or something!
Question:
Does the exhaust come out from the left tailpipe most of the time and is only diverted to the right one upon acceleration?
Yeah - I've noticed after a short drive around the block, that the left pipe is hot and the right one not... so I'd say there is something like that going on
Yeah - I've noticed after a short drive around the block, that the left pipe is hot and the right one not... so I'd say there is something like that going on
Same here. The left pipe is black, but the right one is still clean and has no pressure if you cover it with your hand (only do it when it's cold!).
Thought it was faulty or something until i saw other people mention it here.
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