Golf 118 TSI Engine Failures and Service Campaign 24S4

[Nolan]

SO I had the pressure accumulator recall done, no issues there and they also scanned the car (apparently) and said there was no evidence of misfires or loss of compression. They also confirmed all other recalls had been done including the software update to fix misfires.I think a move to the recommended BKR7 plugs and checking the oil is needed.
On the downside they identified a few issues; a coolant leak from a loose hose (no my coolant level in the container looked fine, I checked), a wiring harness had rubbed on the radiator and been slightly damaged, and an oil leak from the sump.
How the **** did this car get a roadworthy a little over a month ago? Given they only had 2 guys in the workshop due to stage 4 restrictions they said thats all they could do on that day and thats fine with me, but it will still cost a lot to get this fixed, do I have any legal recourse? I don't really want to take it back to the guy who did the roady as I have no guarantee he will do a good job anymore.

[The_Hawk]

No issues today is no indicator that it won't blow up tomorrow, especially for these engines. Ask anyone who has had one die and they will tell you it was perfect on the way to work and dropped a piston on the way home. Sadly just the way they seem to go which is a real shame since (as I keep saying) they are beautiful engines while they are working.

"No Misfires" is a relative term for these engines. They seem to be pretty common and consistent and nothing that causes errors (or any real concerns). I'd totally believe that there are no errors logged and once all the lockdown is over I'm more than happy to scan the car for you (I'm in Kilsyth).

I haven't done one on this particular model, you could always DIY it! Sump gaskets are usually pretty simple and cheap to DIY, hoses and clamps are usually easy too but often expensive in the VAG world if they are more than a single straight length. Wiring... well that's a bitch. I'd be looking to re-wrap and repair as best as possible while also trying to secure it away from the radiator so it doesn't continue to rub.

Wait and see what the cost estimate comes back as, if it's done as part of a service, maybe it won't be too bad since they sound like relatively quick and simple issues (except maybe the wiring).

[Nolan]

No issues today is no indicator that it won't blow up tomorrow, especially for these engines. Ask anyone who has had one die and they will tell you it was perfect on the way to work and dropped a piston on the way home. Sadly just the way they seem to go which is a real shame since (as I keep saying) they are beautiful engines while they are working.

"No Misfires" is a relative term for these engines. They seem to be pretty common and consistent and nothing that causes errors (or any real concerns). I'd totally believe that there are no errors logged and once all the lockdown is over I'm more than happy to scan the car for you (I'm in Kilsyth).

I haven't done one on this particular model, you could always DIY it! Sump gaskets are usually pretty simple and cheap to DIY, hoses and clamps are usually easy too but often expensive in the VAG world if they are more than a single straight length. Wiring... well that's a bitch. I'd be looking to re-wrap and repair as best as possible while also trying to secure it away from the radiator so it doesn't continue to rub.

Wait and see what the cost estimate comes back as, if it's done as part of a service, maybe it won't be too bad since they sound like relatively quick and simple issues (except maybe the wiring).

Thanks for the offer, I'll look into coming over some time as I'd love the advice. Mechanically I'm rather a novice so the sump gasket still sounds a bit out of my depth. They said they reclamped on the hose and moved the harness out of the way, I'll wrap it in tape when I can but I just don't know how it got a roady with an oil leak, surely this is looked at?
Yeah I think keep it 3 years and then I'll be on a good wage at work and look for an R wagon ( I hope hahaha)

[dribs]

So my car is at the dealer currently, they haven't diagnosed it or anything yet (yet to contact me) but I've pretty much feel inclined my car has finally joined the party.

I'm the original owner - bought it brand new back in 2011. Its been working fine with basically no issues since other than having regular servicing. The timing tensioner and chain were all replaced back in late 2019 per-emptively at the dealer recommendations.

Driving today up the M1 to central coast (1hr in a 1.5hr drive) - felt lost of power. Sluggish to climb up hills and wouldn't go past 3,000 RPM - it wanted to stay in Gear 7 for everything lol. Anyway, got to my destination, decided to let her rest. My heart stank basically.

Started her back up after 2 hours and same symptoms - no change. No engine light yet on dash.

Managed to get home after driving 2 hours with no problems - though still sluggish on power as before and 3,000 RPM limit - cruising at 110km/h. My intention was to get the drive down and go straight to the dealer basically.

Got home, parked THEN the engine light came on. Left it at dealer.

I've seen youtube videos of others having a higher instantaneous fuel consumption on the trip computer when their misfiring. Mine usually at idlem consumes 0.8-0.9l/hr with air conditioning. Today, idle fuel consumption was 1.1-1.2l/hr with air-con.

I'm secretly hoping its some valve thing, but deep down, I know....

Its done 162k so far and just had new tyres replaced too....

[The_Hawk]

Mine usually at idlem consumes 0.8-0.9l/hr with air conditioning. Today, idle fuel consumption was 1.1-1.2l/hr with air-con.

I'm secretly hoping its some valve thing, but deep down, I know....

Its done 162k so far and just had new tyres replaced too....

Those idle numbers look about right for either really!

Good luck with the diagnosis, if the worst happens you can ask for good will, but at 162k and 11 years I don't know how far that will get you. Still probably cheaper to just get a second hand CTTH and get that put in or even a crashed CAVD with the updated pistons *if* you could actually find and confirm that's what it was.

Here's hoping for some random boost pipe or DV that's simply failed! *fingers crossed*

[Lucas_R]

If you have no power under 3,000rpm and you are very lucky it might just be the waterpump / supercharger clutch mechanism. Another reasonably common issue with these engines. The fault means the supercharger does not engage meaning the car is very low on power below 3,000rpm.

Fault code P10A9 (not that expect the dealership will tell you the fault code)

If the engine wont physically go past 3,000rpm no matter how much you try, then its going to be in a limp mode status which seriously reduces power and RPM limit in order to allow you to get the car home/mechanic.

...driving today up the M1 to central coast (1hr in a 1.5hr drive) - felt lost of power. Sluggish to climb up hills and wouldn't go past 3,000 RPM - it wanted to stay in Gear 7 for everything lol. Anyway, got to my destination, decided to let her rest. My heart stank basically.

Started her back up after 2 hours and same symptoms - no change. No engine light yet on dash.

Managed to get home after driving 2 hours with no problems - though still sluggish on power as before and 3,000 RPM limit - cruising at 110km/h. My intention was to get the drive down and go straight to the dealer basically.

[dribs]

So I got a diagnosis from the dealer today. The report said the fuse was blown for the magnetic clutch and had to go ahead to check wiring. If wiring is okay, then the magnetic clutch / water pump needs replacing.

From what I understand from the report, the wiring is okay - so the waterpump needs replacing basically - says "gasket bolt drives drive for supercharger".

Total cost all up will be just short of 3k.

A sign of relief for now. So its the waterpump supercharger pump issue it would seem? Expensive fix though - about $2.3k for the job, which from what I read is a difficult job anyway which sounds about right?

Thankfully much better news than a cracked piston..

[Lucas_R]

Genuine part is $950 or so. So 2k for labour. 03C121004J - Water Pump - Audi & Volkswagen 1.4 TFSI/TSI– VAGPARTS Australia

$300 for a good quality aftermarket unit. TOPRAN Water Pump 113 791 | Run Auto Parts

You could certainly save some cash by having the job done by a VW specialist mechanic instead of the VW dealership as you are paying absolute top dollar for labour and having to buy genuine parts.

[YoYoYo]

Good luck Dribs.

When my water pump failed in 2018, I paid about $1500. Parts and labour. If you're really lucky it may only be a fuse (though I'm sure the dealership would have tried that?)

[dribs]

Good luck Dribs.

When my water pump failed in 2018, I paid about $1500. Parts and labour. If you're really lucky it may only be a fuse (though I'm sure the dealership would have tried that?)

Was all fixed on Friday and good to go since! Was the pump, labour was $1.5k and part was $800 @ the dealer.

As per Lucas_R I could've gone across the bridge for an indie VW dealer, but I needed a ride and thankfully can sorta stomach the cost to fix at the dealer.

Hopefully the car can go for another fair years :pray:

[AEMOMEMO]

Hi everyone,
At a bit of a dead end with my VW Golf, so thought I'd try here for some advice. I recently purchased a 2011 Golf Cabriolet 118TSi from a private seller, car is at 124000km approximately. Car had come with RWC, rego and a full service history, regularly done at VW (most recent ones being Ringwood VIC). It was driving perfectly for about a month, after which the car kept saying to check oil levels so I took it to a local mechanic who diagnosed the issue to be the oil sensor needing replacement as it had reached 'end of life'. There were also misfires detected in cylinders 1 and 4, but the mechanic said they had fixed this issue. The car was great after that for about a month, after which the engine light came on as soon as I re-fuelled. I have only ever used 98 fuel. I thought it was a fuel cap issue (as diagnosed by the internet) given the light came on as soon as I started the car after refuelling. I tried to fix it but it would not go away, and the next day the car essentially went into 'idle mode', was jerking and would not accelerate/was resisting. I took it to the mechanic again, who first said it was a fuel pressure issue, and has no come back and said the 'timing chain has stretched', and the cost to repair will be $2-3k, as well as $250 for the services he's already done (diagnosing the issue etc.). I am a student so I absolutely do not have the money for this. I have done some research and found this forum and others, where people have had similar issues and had VW cover the costs. I have contacted the customer service, who were incredibly unhelpful and basically said because the car is out of warranty I have to pay and to contact the dealership. I contacted the dealership the previous owner went to and they said they can file for a goodwill claim but it is unlikely that it will get approved given the age of the car. They told me to bring the car in so they can diagnose but I live over an hour away so I was redirected to my local one. I spoke to two different people at my local dealership who were both discouraging, saying Goodwill will not be approved most liekly due to the age of the car, regardless of the low kms. They said they can still apply on my behalf, but the issue needs to be diagnosed first and for that they need to 'strip the engine' which will be about $940. This fee will be waived if Goodwill is approved but if not I will have to pay for this, and to also put the car back together. I don't undertand how they can basically tell me to commit without giving any guarantee, as its essentially a gamble for me where if Goodwill is not approved (which is looking unlikely) I will be out of pocket $2-3k regardless. One of the people I spoke to at the dealership said that if I can 'build a case and give strong evidence' regarding this issue that maybe I might stand a chance. I find this absolutely ridiculous as why am I having to prove this fault when VW is aware of the issue in these engines. I really love the car and it breaks my heart thinking of selling so I'm really hopignto get some clarity on the goodwill claims, or what other way Ican get VW to cover it. The car still has plenty of kms left before it reaches the end of life of the engine according to the ACCC, so its baffling to me that this issue has occurred so early. I can see now that this is a common issue with this engine, and I don't understand why VW is being so difficult, as i can see in the past they've bveen quite helpful. I have also taken the advice of some people previously from this forum and emailed people higher up in the company, e.g. customer experience head, managing director etc based on the little information I could find.

Any advice on this matter would be highly appreciated. As mentioned, I'm a student and admittedly not the most well-versed with cars, so would love to know what you guys think. I'm also highly reliant on this car for work as I'm a mobile tutor and have already lost a client due to not being able to make sessions as I haven't had a car. The car is currently booked with the dealer foe 8th May, and I don't know whether I should take it to them as I have no guarantee on whether I will have to foot the bill or not. Not sure if I want to roll the dice. Any help would be so so appreciated. Thanks in advance!!!!!

[VW Convert]

Hi everyone,
At a bit of a dead end with my VW Golf, so thought I'd try here for some advice. I recently purchased a 2011 Golf Cabriolet 118TSi from a private seller, car is at 124000km approximately. Car had come with RWC, rego and a full service history, regularly done at VW (most recent ones being Ringwood VIC).

Hate to be the bearer of bad tidings, but the car is 12 years old, I can't see any way VW will cover this, so getting a VW dealer to tear it down will almost certainly be throwing good money after bad. Also can't see ACCC doing anything at this age.

Others have replaced their engine with a second hand one from a wreck, but not knowing if the replacement engine has had a rebuild means the next step would be to sell the car, before the replacement engine fails. Problem is, most people do their research and know about the issues with these engines so the pool of buyers is small.

[The_Hawk]

It's a tough one, these cars are getting on in years and goodwill is less and less likely/common, even more so when you're not the original owner.

I'd like to think that a compression test (and maybe boroscope image) would be enough given ***everyone*** knows about this issue! The tear down is likely a policy, which I understand from a diagnosis point of view, but I'd like to think an exception could be made when it's clear as day to anyone who knows these engines what the issue is. Even if it's just for the purposes of lodging the good will claim.

You could try writing to the head office and suggest this compromise, at least for the good will claim, although it's worth pointing at just how many vehicles have been fixed under good will and that it's a well known fault. Be polite and see where you get to. Even part coverage of labour or parts would be a step in the right direction!

There is a market for rebuilding these engines, if you were lucky you could find one with the uprated pistons or a CTTH variant to drop in, but it's going to cost you somewhere in the $5k - $8k (ish) range on a good day.


The only good news is that the failures seem to be (mostly) fixed by the later pistons... but it's a gamble. Do you fix it and move it on, or fix it and pray to the car gods for the best??

[lokomotif]

Hello all, as a 118tsi owner I've been following this thread for a long time, thanks for the great piece of information!

It is my time to provide some information that could help others still not giving up on this little great engine. I bought my vehicle as new in 2014, I got it tuned from revo stage1 after 2 years of running it on stock map, engine is cth so I kept the stock internals except changing the factory spark plugs with NGK BKR7EIX iridium ones (Which was a recommendation from revo back then)

Car has now 80k km on the clock and regularly serviced at every 7000-8000 kms. I change the spark plugs every two year regardless.

So after running it on a remap for 8 years I got little to none issue. Power figures are good, there is no oil consuption or any visible indicator of abnormal wear and tear. Only issue I got so far is it blew up an ignition coil at around 50k kms, got it swapped and moved on.

I want to keep the vehicle but what do you think guys? Am I safe or not

[h100vw]

Start putting money away just in case. but if it has survived this long you could be lucky