118TSI - General Discussion

[The_Hawk]

My fun for the last couple of days has been changing the oil and installing a catch can.

The oil extractor is a very tight fit, but I managed to get that done eventually... well except the oil filter which will not come out. Might need to ask someone for help on this one.

But the catch can... that's an interesting one. Following on from this thread I had the basic pieces made 18 months ago and they have been sitting in the boot ever since. Finally got around to putting them in.

My mounting location is a little different, although had I gone back to read that thread I might have followed the same sort of path as I'm not 100% happy with my installation, it works, but means I can't go back to the stock air filter unless I remove it (or relocate it). My lines are also a little long, but they're in. We will see if it works. There was oil in the air intake at this junction, hopefully not any more. For now it's what you call 'functional'

[gerhard]

Not sure if your hose is high enough spec

[The_Hawk]

Not sure if your hose is high enough spec

Let's not point out that the fittings cost more than the catch can either

[xlot]

Now that all the holiday dust settled, spent time last weekend with daughter grinding all the other rings, measuring gaps, and then re-dressing the hand-filed ones so they were actually square!

Reminded of this thread as I'm searching for where the F the bluetooth factory module is in the car - dealer fitted a bluetooth kit to the car in 2014..

Clearly I owe some closure and pics

TLDR - rebuild ran into more palaver end of Jan with the original ebay kit resulting in another set of (cheap) pistons and rings being purchased. Car started in March, and rego renewed 2 weeks ago. The car has done almost 1k kms since turning the key - zero fault codes since restart.

Its got non-synthetic 5W30 in it for break in purposes as I want to hit 1500kms before considering it bedded in, as the owners manual advises new owners to be gentle with the motor until that point to get lowest oil consumption and best longevity. Just cut open the first oil filter yesterday without changing oil - some flecks of blue paint from paint pen used to mark torqued bolts inside the motor, but nothing shiny or concerning.

I've stuck an item on my to-do list to sort out some pictures, and some info on costs and what I needed to get the job done, so will come back with a longer wrap-up.

For now, back to figuring out where the dealer hid the VW bluetooth module (part no 000051473C according to the 2014 receipt).

[Lucas_R]

Reminded of this thread as I'm searching for where the F the bluetooth factory module is in the car - dealer fitted a bluetooth kit to the car in 2014..

For now, back to figuring out where the dealer hid the VW bluetooth module (part no 000051473C according to the 2014 receipt).

That part # is for a Bluetooth kit they mounted in VW Polo's of the same era. Not sure I have ever seen on in a Golf because they include a little display screen which is fitted somewhere appropriate on the dashboard, this is quite obvious when you look in the car. But IF it does in fact have this bluetooth module fitted, then it can only be in close proximity to the headunit (somewhere in the dash behind the head unit).

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/315733923774

[The_Hawk]

The factory Mk6 unit is under the drivers seat.

[Sharkie]

The factory Mk6 unit is under the drivers seat.

Yep, most VWs from that era has it under the driver's seat.

[xlot]

Cheers, turns out its this factory kit: http://www.myturbodiesel.com/images/...stallation.pdf

[xlot]

So now that the 118tsi which suffered CAVD piston death is on the road and driving around, I pulled together the list of what I spent doing the rebuild.

CAVD engine kit (ebay) $451.00
1.4tsi Cam timing tool (ebay) $67.00
Second Piston kit (ebay) $92.00
Flexigauge (repco) $9.00
VW Tool T10058 (long ball end socket) ebay germany $46.00
Ultra Black RTV (repco) $10.00
5w-30 mineral (repco) $40.00
Rod bolts and cam/oil pump bolts (VW Dealer) $243.00

Micrometer Set (10 thou accuracy) (Hare and Forbes) $213.00
Dial bore gauge kit (ebay) $50.00
Repco Cylinder Hone (repco) $90.00
VW Pulley Holder (ebay) $45.00

Total Cost $1,356.00

Of that, $398 was general tools (the VW pulley holder is just a good size pulley holder - my old one was too small to cope with counterholding big torque like the crank bolt), so the actual build-specific parts came to $958. That also included a second set of pistons

The ebay kit was this one - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/194166080487

Things we didn't use from the ebay kit:
* the gasket for the injector plate onto the heads - I left the injectors attached to the heads when I had them off
* main bearings and thrust bearings - after measuring the new ebay rod bearings in the kit, they were mostly too loose. I used the tightest two to replace cylinder 2's rod bearings as they were scored, but the other original rod bearings were all fine, and the original rings were within spec, so I figure the main bearings are still in spec thanks to solid oil change history on the motor.
* valves - I cleaned the carbon off the original ones, and decided to stick with the OE quality over new cheapo ones
* a few o-rings - I think at least one was for the fuel pump, but again, original was fine and pliable (I have receipt for fuel pump replacement in the history so it wasn't 2009 old)

The ebay kit I got came with head bolts, which I used, but it didn't include rod bolts or the special cam and oil pump bolts (including the left-threaded one) which are all marked as replace and torque to angle after initial torque (i.e. they stretch), and I also grabbed a special diamond-coated washer between the crank bushing and crankshaft which the workshop manual said to add if it wasn't fitted yet. I was happy to be using factory quality to attach the cams and rods!

And the pistons.. yeah the effing pistons.. The set in the kit all looked ok, but on closer inspection, one was oversize.. Note the two different coloured dots on them.. the one was clearly for a bored cylinder, and the other three all matched and were much closer in size.



After back and forth exchange with the ebay vendor (in hong kong apparently), they consulted their expert, who said "its all in spec". I'd already tried installing it in the largest cylinder and just couldn't get it in there.. Rather than wasting time arguing over the internet, I just bought another set of pistons from a different HK vendor - they were all similar size, and weight, and so my daughter and I gapped another set of rings on the 3d-printed dremel holder thing (we're pretty good at gapping rings now ), and then installed.. right after a quick deglaze with a hone from Repco, so that the rings stood a better change of sealing.



So after the hone, the new new pistons went in and the old new pistons/pins/rings went in a bucket of junk.



Heads went on smoothly.. complete with pink and blue paint pen marks, to track the initial torque, and then the completion of the series of 90's.



And then the last pain-staking parts.. timing the cams and putting the new chains on etc. We did reuse the cam housing bolts - workshop manual says they're single use too, but they're much lower-stress and don't have to cope with as much as the head bolts or rod bolts.



Once the timing cover went back on, things sped up a fair bit, although we did have to refer back to the many pictures taken during disassembly to make sure we put things back in the right places.

The only other thing I bought which we haven't installed was a new turbo core - given the amount of oil in the intake, I suspect the original one leaks, but I didn't want to add more risk to the engine just yet, so the new core is on the shelf and will get installed if there's oil showing up in the intercooler pipe in quantity after a few thousand kms. The turbo is easy to remove so taking the safer option right now seemed prudent

For the ebay kit - I was actually ok with it generally.. machining quality was pretty good on the actual parts.. and the bottom line was this was an experimental build, because paying a workshop to do it with proper parts would have probably cost north of the $8k we paid for the car, which would have been better spent on another car Heck, even a used CAVD or CTHD motor with unknown provenance and issues would have been $3k+delivery.

My daughter already loved the car before the engine issues.. and as she said, now the emotional attachment to it is off the charts, as she's personally torqued up rod and head bolts, gapped rings, and scraped knuckles on it.

I'm hoping the motor lasts at least 50k kms.. so far there's no fault codes, and nothing of concern in the first oil filter. Will keep an eye on the oil level, and I'm planning to drive it to canberra to pick up said daughter this weekend, and back.. as the last big shakedown to see how it copes with sustained high speed.

edit: oh I reckon it took us about 50 hours to do.. but we're not professionals and a workshop could probably get it down to 20 hours.

[xlot]

And last post - here's a list of useful videos and links which I referred to on the rebuild journey.. this was my first rebuild this far into an engine (hence I had to buy measuring tools), so youtube and internet research came inhandy

Rebuild Video (Tiguan)	##Volkswagen Tiguan 1.4 TSI engine rebuild for £250##
Kiwi CAVD Rebuild	Volkswagen Golf Engine rebuilding / Time Lapse / CAVD 1.4 Liter Engine
Engine/gearbox removal	Vw, Audi, Seat, And Skoda 1.4 TSI Engine Removal Together With Gearbox/Transaxle.
Timing chain replacement (mk6)	Timing Chain Replacement 2.0TSI Golf Mk6 GTI And 2012 Golf GTi - Complete timing chain replacement - 2.0 TSI - Pt5 of the golf gti project Timing Chain Replacement VW Golf TSI 1.4 P3008 VW 1.4TSI Timing Chain Replacement
Lifter bleeding	https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AtcF6czMWjo
Workshop manual pdf	https://workshop-manuals.com/volkswagen/golf-mk6/power_unit/4-cylinder_injection_engine_(1.6_l_roller_rocker_fin ger)/technical_data/engine_number/
ETKA parts online	https://webautocats.com/etka/volkswagen/golf/649/1/
Turbo Core replacement	VW Golf 1.4 TSI turbo failure how to repair cheap
Mahle Piston Info - size + clearance for EA111	https://www.kmotorshop.com/document/tecdoc/287/479702651.PDF
Mahle Pistons - break in	https://www.kmotorshop.com/document/tecdoc/287/546053932.PDF

and a few more

TSI Rebuild	https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZaR34G1RxNY
Hone cylinder	https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KVcLA6rqLHc	Decimal Tenths
Piston Ring	https://forums.pelicanparts.com/911-engine-rebuilding-forum/882525-piston-ring-orientation-w-3-piece-oil-ring.html

Good luck to anyone else trying this!

[Sharkie]

Cheers, turns out its this factory kit: http://www.myturbodiesel.com/images/...stallation.pdf

I would pull all of the BT kit and the factory radio out and install a new CarPlay capable VW radio like a RCD360. It has BT built in and fully integrates to everything else, even on a 2009 Golf.

Amazing job on the engine rebuild, love it!

[The_Hawk]

That is an awesome collection of links and information! Great work.

[xlot]

I would pull all of the BT kit and the factory radio out and install a new CarPlay capable VW radio like a RCD360. It has BT built in and fully integrates to everything else, even on a 2009 Golf.

Amazing job on the engine rebuild, love it!

Thanks!

Already fitted an RCD-330 a while back, and ran a USB socket to the glove box (so P-plate kid can put phone away and still use google maps etc. )

I pulled the old factory head unit out, and also the MDI, but the stupid bluetooth module is in there somewhere and keeps trying to pair my phone (as I connected to it when we first got the car).. Now I think I know where it'll be, I just need to wrap up some other sorting out random things before the run to canberra and back.

Talking of the MDI - this turned up in the post today after ordering a few weeks ago.. perfect fit..



Its actually a pocket to convert double to single DIN from a VW Bora

[The_Hawk]

Already fitted an RCD-330 a while back, and ran a USB socket to the glove box (so P-plate kid can put phone away and still use google maps etc. )

You might want to be a little careful on that one.

I was reading up on the differences in requirements between states as we took an L Plater between VIC and NSW. For example, in Victoria an L plater only has to follow the posted speed limits, in NSW you have a max 90KM/h.

But reading on other interesting difference is the use of mobile devices. In NSW it's 100% out all of the time for Leaners, P1 and P2 drivers regardless of how it's mounted or connected and explicitly includes navigation.

By contrast, In Victoria it's explicitly allowed for navigation as long as it's mounted and/or connected to the built in display.

In NSW you can however use a dedicated GPS device either built in or mounted to the windshield explicitly including GPS navigation.

We did discuss if using an old phone with CarPlay/Android Auto with no SIM that ONLY has Nav/Music on it would be acceptable... or would it still be classed as a "Mobile Phone" and screw you over anyway?
Reading a random FaceBook post NSW Road Safety replied (multiple times) "a GPS device that's not a mobile phone is permitted for use by L and P-Platers, as long as the device is secured in a mounting fixed to the vehicle and doesn't obscure the driver's view of the road." It doesn't quite answer my question, but I would suggest it's not an argument you would want to have. Mind you there were plenty of people responding to that particular thread about how they were P plater drivers using CarPlay and/or a phone in a holder who went through RBT/Traffic stops without issue... not that I would want to rely on that given the ludicrous 3/4 demerit points that come with that (with no differentiation between holding the phone on a call while driving and having it stowed in the glove box and using maps or music).


Which puts L and P plate drivers in a pretty **** position when it comes to Nav. Modern cars often have CarPlay/AA rather than coming with on board Navigation. Replacing those head units is near impossible and at the very least expensive to get around this requirement.

If you have an older car you could choose to install an Android based head unit that you could have run Waze natively, otherwise the only option that is left is a typically far more expensive navigation unit (with CarPlay you can't use) for a few years.

[xlot]

You might want to be a little careful on that one.

I was reading up on the differences in requirements between states as we took an L Plater between VIC and NSW. For example, in Victoria an L plater only has to follow the posted speed limits, in NSW you have a max 90KM/h.

But reading on other interesting difference is the use of mobile devices. In NSW it's 100% out all of the time for Leaners, P1 and P2 drivers regardless of how it's mounted or connected and explicitly includes navigation.

<snip>

Which puts L and P plate drivers in a pretty **** position when it comes to Nav. Modern cars often have CarPlay/AA rather than coming with on board Navigation. Replacing those head units is near impossible and at the very least expensive to get around this requirement.

If you have an older car you could choose to install an Android based head unit that you could have run Waze natively, otherwise the only option that is left is a typically far more expensive navigation unit (with CarPlay you can't use) for a few years.

Yeah - the rules are clear "no mobile phone in use in any way".. Daughter knows to hit the Radio button the head unit if she's stopped, so it looks like a regular radio, and the lack of anything plugged into the USB on the front of the RCD-330 means there's no sign of a phone, as I paid for the rear-usb-mod which goes to glovebox. She's been RBT'ed once so far and had no issues so .

On the speed - the 90 limit thing is frankly dangerous for L/red P's on the freeway.. 20kph difference to most other traffic is a liability, and some merges are scary as hell at 90. The Hume merge on the northbound from Canberra to Sydney.. where the left-lane doing 90 merges with the fast lane doing 110, and then immediately merges again with the fast lane on the right also doing 110.. there's no safe way to change left after the first merge because they're all doing 110 too.

Car has done 2.5k kms now - did Canberra to Sydney today hence the comment on the Hume merge.. Its only needed 300ml of oil top up at around 250km past rebuild.. it doesn't appear to have drunk *any* since then, so this weekend it gets another filter change, and its first oil change taking out the mineral 5W-30 to replace with Nulon fully synthetic correct VW standard meeting oil.