If this is your first visit, be sure to
check out the FAQ by clicking the
link above. You may have to register
before you can post: click the register link above to proceed, registering will remove the in post advertisements. To start viewing messages,
select the forum that you want to visit from the selection below.
This means you should apply for your renewal now to avoid any disruptions to your membership whilst the renewal process is taking place! NOTE: If you have an auto renewing subscription this will happen automatically.
I might have missed it Trent, but have you now put the correct perforated grill on your drivers side so there can be airflow over your aux radiator? (pictures in thread show covered grill fitted).
Graeme
PM if you are looking for: R32 rear sway bar; R32 suspension springs; Euro Headlight switches
I might have missed it Trent, but have you now put the correct perforated grill on your drivers side so there can be airflow over your aux radiator? (pictures in thread show covered grill fitted).
Graeme
G'day Graeme. Yeah I spent the excruciating painful time with the old stanley knife whilst sitting on our living room rug and watching tv. The GF was most unimpressed with the mess.
It's not the cleanest job in the world but it will do and I've also noticed since that you can actually buy grills with them already pre cutout.
By the way do you know the reasoning behind VW fitting the aux radiator to our cars? Is it a climate thing?
Cheers,
Trent
By the way, regarding the flapper mod with switch.
The wires run down the passenger side on RHD. Don't come anywhere near our fuse box. The wire just comes out of firewall behind glovebox and then runs in the loom down the a-pillar behind the left kickpanel and then along the inside of car then to the pump under the back left guard.
In the engine bay you can also access it easily from the main 14pin connector next to the battery (under the air intake snorkel), but you would then have to run your switch wires through the firewall.
Just a matter of selecting the correct coloured wire as per US instructions, which looks quite thick (heavy duty wire).
Use the 87F terminal on the fuse box to power the switch but make sure you put a small rated fuse into the new switch circuit as the screw terminals are only fused with one of those 40 or 50 amp fuses on top of the battery at the moment. (All those bolts are "unfused" except for the large ones on the battery, so way too high for any added circuits inside the car).
PM if you are looking for: R32 rear sway bar; R32 suspension springs; Euro Headlight switches
Thanks Graeme. I figured that'd be the case. So have you actually totally disassembled your car into its' basic components and reverse engineered vagcom? Because you seem to know everything there is to know inside and out.
I've cut the flapper hose now and blocked up each end so I really can't be bothered anymore to do the switch. Plus I haven't had any unwanted attention from the rozzers or anyone so it's all good anyway (touch wood).
Cheers,
Trent
They can't hassle you anyway because its still below the legal maximum when its open.
Ours are actually slightly quieter than normal US and Euro spec as well! We have a special muffler for Australia.
Bloody hell. Shonky US suspension. More radiators = more weight and now quiet exhausts. Is there anything we didn't get shafted on.
Not that it sounds that quiet or bad anyway though.
The standard heated leather seats, cruise control, climatronic and gamma radio system are quite nice also.
Yes, actually...our cars have a lower compression to run on 91 octane...as if anyone would put that ****e in an R32
Also our cars only meet Euro 2 emission standard, but the Euro version is Euro 4 (why did VW Australia do that???)
I always thought it was a bit strange seeing that on the door of the fuel filler. Is there anyway we can bump up the compression with a recode or anything or is this part of what the APR chips et al do?
Tweet
Comment