Above Forum Ad
Collapse
Announcement
Collapse
No announcement yet.
What have you done to your mk4 (golf/bora) today?
Collapse
X
-
sigpic
2010 Renault Clio RenaultSPORT 200 Cup 20th Anniversary Edition - #19 of 30 - The French Connection...
2004 Volkswagen Golf R32 MkIV - #044 of 200 - Gone But Not Forgotten...
"Racing is life; Anything that happens before or after is just waiting." - Steve McQueen -=-=- "Si Vis Pacem, Para Bellum" - Unknown
-
got one of those too Al, fantastic thing to use.. yet i havent used it still and had it for a while!
If you have your own garage you should just grab a floor racing jack, much easier and wont damage your sills eitherWhat’s behind you doesn’t matter..
Comment
-
Originally posted by quozl View PostYou can just buy one of these for your floor jack and then you can jack it on the pinch rail properly
Pure Motorsports is where I bought one for myself and Graeme.
Alternately buy an ice hockey puck and use a table saw to cut a groove into it and use that.
Cheers Al
from looking at the widow maker, it seemed to seat most of the weight on the inside of the rail, i.e a flat part of the sill(?) that you can't see, as i couldn't see any marks left on the widow maker where the rail would have sat.
in this post, it looks like no weight is put on the rail, yet the person doesn't think it is correct.
and as i said, i initially put my widow maker in the wrong position, and so that it was lifting up on the outside flat part of the sill (outside as in the side closest to you that you can see), and it deformed it by 10mm+, so def not strong enough there!
(as yes i used the correct 13cm and 22mm distances or whatever they are as the book says. I noticed are actually dents that indicate these points on my car, doesn't look very clean... this on all cars?Last edited by McDub; 18-10-2009, 07:05 PM.
Comment
-
Originally posted by McDub View Postthanks for that, but what is the contact point supposed to be?
from looking at the widow maker, it seemed to seat most of the weight on the inside of the rail, i.e a flat part of the sill(?) that you can't see, as i couldn't see any marks left on the widow maker where the rail would have sat.
in this post, it looks like no weight is put on the rail, yet the person doesn't think it is correct.
and as i said, i initially put my widow maker in the wrong position, and so that it was lifting up on the outside flat part of the sill (outside as in the side closest to you that you can see), and it deformed it by 10mm+, so def not strong enough there!
(as yes i used the correct 13cm and 22mm distances or whatever they are as the book says. I noticed are actually dents that indicate these points on my car, doesn't look very clean... this on all cars?
Last edited by quozl; 18-10-2009, 08:25 PM.
Comment
-
Originally posted by quozl View PostAs you can see the pinch rail fits in the slot, all the weight is taken by the area that is supposed to take it.
i believe it's much stronger on the inside, i.e behind the pinch rail, rather than the outside, i.e towards the skirting, but that's just from what i observed today.
and that makes sense as to why the widow maker is designed the way it is, it only puts the weight on the inside, unlike that yellow jack pad which looks like it supports on either side of the pinch rail.
so the way i see it, when using a floor jack, it's ok to use a block of wood and place it just behind the pinch rail. anyone disagree with that?Last edited by McDub; 18-10-2009, 08:55 PM.
Comment
-
Originally posted by fuzion View Postno pics no believe my friend lol.
feel like doing mine too?the Duragloss package i got from carcareproducts came with a white microfibre cloth... which is pretty much black now haha
and yesterday i fitted these
will try and post pics up
Comment
-
Originally posted by quozl View PostYou said you used a floor jack after the widow maker, I was showing you a part you can use with a FLOOR JACK so as to not damage the pinch rail. As you can see the pinch rail fits in the slot, all the weight is taken by the area that is supposed to take it.
80,000km 1997 MK3 VR6 manual for sale - www.vwwatercooled.org.au/forums/f23/80-000km-1997-manual-vr6-nsw-sydney-67658.html
Comment
-
Comment
-
Originally posted by Jono View Post
Pics of those LED lights would be great, as I was thinking about doing them, but dont think they will look nearly as good as the image that is with that ebay link (as they are the proper audi ones with reflector housings and all etc..), but would love to be proven wrong!
Let us know how it goes
Cheers,
benMkIV Bora [SOLD]
MkV GTI PIRELLI
Comment
-
Originally posted by ben View PostPics of those LED lights would be great, as I was thinking about doing them, but dont think they will look nearly as good as the image that is with that ebay link (as they are the proper audi ones with reflector housings and all etc..), but would love to be proven wrong!
Let us know how it goes
Cheers,
ben
I finally mustered up the minerals to fit my nice KYB AGX front struts, after all teh psyching up, it went so smoothly, I had replaced both fronts in 45 mins!! It took just over an hour to do both rears, though that did include re-tapping a hole... The hardest setting, damn it holds the road good, but with the dodgy road around work here, it feels stiffer than a honeymooner's preverbial!! Think I could get used to it though..Now for a wheel and tyre upgrade....
sigpic
Stage 2+ Intercooler Carbon Intake Downpipe Swaybar DV+ Remsa.
Comment
-
Originally posted by ben View PostPics of those LED lights would be great, as I was thinking about doing them, but dont think they will look nearly as good as the image that is with that ebay link (as they are the proper audi ones with reflector housings and all etc..), but would love to be proven wrong!
Let us know how it goes
Cheers,
ben
cheers,
Jono
Comment
2025 - Below Forum
Collapse
Comment