What have you done to your mk4 (golf/bora) today?

[dylan8]

So after god knows how many years its been I'm finally bringing my bora back from the dead , of course this means it needs to go back to stock for rwc ( of course I didn't bother to keep stock bits ) hence a parts car was purchased today, essentially im just going to be stripping it for parts I need and throwing it away in a week. Any melbourne guys that need anything hit me up as I really don't intend on keeping it around for more then a couple of days

This is goooood!!
Believe ill be paying you a visit with stu. Need to make a list of parts i need

[RubAVeeDubDub]

Finally found out why my driveshaft bolts kept coming loose (causing awesome grinding and banging noises).

Never. Ever. Buy. Aftermarket driveshafts.



Guess which one is the aftermarket one? And notice the end of that snapped off after being tightened up to torque?



I probably should start a build thread. Just thinking of the amount of work I've done to my 4mo. She's come a long way.

List of repairs since I bought her 2.5 years ago:

- Removed kms of bad alarm and stereo wiring
- Replaced every single coolant hose + aux pump + reservoir tank
- Replaced multiple PCV hoses
- Replaced front door locks half a dozen times
- Fixed broken sunroof hinge (beats me how someone could do this)
- Changed out torn leather beige seats to better condition black ones
- Changed filthily beige carpet to black carpet and now have a black & beige franenstein interior lol
- Fitted black seat belts, black carpet, black lower console, black parcel shelf and black leather seats with beige roof & quater panel covers and beige dash.
- Replaced recently burnt out alternator wire and fuse box
- Replaced many broken interior pieces including centre console & glovebox
- Change out cracked and peeling wood grain pieces with "Net Optic" style radio surround, and door handles
- Chewed through 2x sumps
- Replaced front control arms, front bearings incl stub axles, front ball joints, tie-rod ends & swaybar links
- Had custom made shortened brake lines as Passat brakes were fitted to her and the hoses were too long
- Removed ****ty peeling tint
-

Still to be done:
- Replacing internal air flapper motor (boo!)
- Sealing up blend door so car will have heat again
- Fit R32 gearknob to match rest of car trim
- Polish the crap out of the paint to bring back her shine
- Repair cracked Oettinger rear valance
- Replace broken camchain guide
- Find and fit a ducktail style rear spoiler - similar to the BMW E46 CSL rear spoiler
- Fit new suspension - "Tracer" coils aren't doing it for me
- Fit upgraded bracing

[dubster99]

You wouldnt have a guide on how to do that by any chance?

No guide unfortunately but just soldered wires to the wires on the vents to any power source and all earth wires to one point.

[PassionGarage]

not much is going on but prep for Fitted Friday
but
- New Double platinum spark plugs in as the Bora was backfiring everywhere they were black as
$105 for 6 isn't too bad
- pulled out the rest of the melted Plastic inner front guards, wheels have ****ed them since coils went in
- new front windscreen banner on for look

to do in the next week or so
- New plastic headlight covers on
- have got some Decals coming as well something a little different, haven't seen them on a bora before
- car needs a good detail
- pulling out centre dash and rubbing all that VW "smooth touch" crap and waxing down so it doesn't look so bad
- taking woodgrain trims on the doors and gonna try and repair some the cracks and then glue them back to the doors

QUESTION - the sunroof cover has a rattle at the back if the cover is back but sunroof isn't open, haven't been able to figure out why ? anyone else have a similar issue ??

[guile]

installed some maintenance parts ready for when i put the car on the market...

vcds said my brake light switch was faulty so that was swapped out for the later version...



i was recently told that there was play in the adjustable rear control arms so i upgraded all 4...

new vs old...


one side installed...


and i had to drop the rear subframe bolt to remove the control arm bolt, what a shizzle piece of design work (that subframe bolt was king tight)...

[dylan8]

play in the rosejoint on the old ones?

[guile]

yep, so i was told and i can feel a bit of play to be honest. i think its a common problem with that type of joint on road cars that do lots of k's...

bit of a shame though as they are supposedly gruven parts which i thought were good quality...

[dubster99]

Hey guy so Im getting around to doing remote central locking on my and found this old post kendog did about the problems he had.
So from what Ive searched through ukmkivs forum Aus delivered GTIs with is a 2 plug and mine which is a lower spec golf has a 1J0 ccm 1 plug so all I had to find was a 1J0 2 plug ccm from a bora with matching keys and the extra t15 plug.
I did have a GTI 1C0 ccm but since my existing ccm was 1J0 I would have had to repin the t23 plug to suit the ccm along with replacing door and window modules whih I didnt want to do!

Heres a diagram on how to wire it in, quite simple when you remove unwanted accessories




And heres what I grabbed from the wrecker




The only problem atm is the led does not flash on the bora FOB which leads me to think the keys **** itself but will order new FOB and program them in!

UPDATE:
OK, big change in plans,
This afternoon after work, I took apart the lower dash to get to the 'comfort control module'. From what I've read & seen (guides on extending remote range), there are 2 plugs going into the comfort module, 1 main blue one, and a second beige/black one, containing a wire with clear coating - the antenna for OEM remotes. I wanted to see if I could see the 'antenna wire' coming out of the beige/black plug in my exact car. This would at least tell me (a very good indication) if the comfort module was equipped to receive signals from a remote.

Here is what they look like:



And... this is what mine looked like:



Only the blue plug, no beige or black plug at ALL!!!! So much for the antenna wire!! There wasn't even the whole plug it resides on!
This led me to conclude that there ARE comfort modules out there that that are not at all equipped to work with remotes and keyless entry! ...OEM of course that is.

So... now my search was over, what the hell to do with the deflating outcome!?!?!

I decided to install the black wire alarm/immobiliser (I had from a previous car & had already ordered the new wiring loom) as my add-on keyless entry (no pictures, obviously). A few hours later, all done, same night. Works like a charm!

If I get around to it, I might get the windows up/down going too. I can get them up, but not sure if 'holding negative' on that wire constantly is bad? It'd be like constantly holding the key on 'lock' on the door, long after the windows have closed.

Now that's done, I can focus on the wheels! Busy night, I'm off to bed!

[kendog]

Wow! I haven't been on here in what feels like years.. and there I am being quoted.. I still haven't done my CCM/Remotes swap, I ended up buying a set an ebay from a UK breaker (wrecker), but haven't gotten around to wiring them in yet..

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OK, why I'm actually posting.. Finally time to get new brakes and tyres.. I don't want to have to fork out for all 4 of brake pads, brake discs/rotors and tyres all at once, but it's looking that way..

Tyres, I'm open to suggestions, but it looks like my best bet 'value' wise, is going to be getting another set of Kumho KU-31's, $135ea at St. George Tyres:
235-40-18 KUMHO KU31 ECSTA SPORT SPT HOLDEN FORD ST GEORGE TYRES

Sure, I'd love to try something different, Michelin Pilot Sport 3's aren't too much more at $166ea, but just don't have the spare cash with the brakes needing to be done.

What do you guys think about width? My last/current set of tyres are 225/40/18's, 225 apparently the right width for my 18x8" wheels. But I always felt they could be a tiny bit wider to protect the lip of the rim a bit better (or way narrower for poke). Someone told me a while back to get the 235/40/18's, as there's a tiny bit more width, and those sizes are much more common with commodores/falcons, so there's more supply of them, and they're a bit cheaper.. Thoughts?

Brakes, I'll post again with the brakes info..

[blackers10]

you only stretch tyres on if you need to clear the guard because your offset is big enough to need it. you don't do it otherwise.
I would stretch for the Michelin if you can.
Brakes go with Brakesdirect.com.au I have Remza pads with which ever standard style rotors they recommended(can't remember the brand off hand) and never have any problems. I am running standard spec mk4 GTI calipers and rotors.

apparently the Kumhos are much softer than the michelins so the tyre life comes into play.

Is there any reason you cant just throw pads on?

[kendog]

Brakes Prices

OK, Brakes, these are also in desperate need of replacement, poor golf, just kept getting overlooked for some TLC..

OK, so, mainly looking at prices here for: Front Discs/Rotors, Rear Discs/Rotors, Front Pads, Rear Pads. I'm hoping a mate can help me fit them (but he's pretty tied up fixing his old man's Model A Ford restoration), might pay someone to do it if cheap enough..

Here's the pricing I've gotten so far, HSY price is trade price, the + sign is to add gst on too. SCA needs 3-5 days to order parts in, not great.
(SuperCheap Autos was a massive pain, mainly the Bondi store people, Rockdale was nicer, and between the 2 stores and online, I got at least 3 completely different sets of prices for everything.. massive confusion, SCA sort your **** out!)

–––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––
BRAKES !! (Updated)

Front Discs/Rotors (288mm):
SCA Rock: $67 ea, $134 set
Auto One/Euro Spares: $77 ea, $154 set
VW genuine: $113 ea, $226 set
HSY Auto: $171.60 set, $85.80 ea, ATE (Trade)
Brakes Direct: $108 set, $54 ea,
Petersham Auto: $150 set, $75 ea,


Rear Rotors (232mm):
SCA Rockdale: $124 set, $62 ea,
Auto1/Euro Spares: $120 set, $60 ea,
VW Genuine: $126 set, $63 ea,
HSY Auto: $81.40 set, $40.70 ea, ATE (Trade)
Brakes Direct: $64.80 set, $32.40 ea, ($45.24ea, $90.48 set, DBA)
Petersham Auto: $90 set, $45 ea,


Front Pads:
SCA Rockdale: $60 set
Auto1/Euro Spares: $80 set
VW genuine: $120 set
HSY Auto: $99 basic, $127 Ceramic, ATE (Trade)
Brakes Direct: $90 set
Petersham Auto: $80 set, BR $80 set, TRW


Rear Pads:
SCA Rockdale: $85 set
Auto1/Euro Spares: $70 set
VW Genuine: $72 set
HSY Auto: $45.10 basic, $59.40, Ceramic, ATE (Trade)
Brakes Direct: $84 set
Petersham Auto: $55 set, BR $55 set, TRW


———————————
Parts Totals:
SCA Rockdale: $382 (incl discount) (3-5 day wait)
Auto1/Euro Spares: $424 (ready to pick up Kensington)
VW Genuine: $544 (in stock)
HSY Auto: $397 $361+ basic, $440 $400+ ceramic,
Brakes Direct: $372.48 $346.80 all (Fremax rear rotors NA, so with DBA rear is $)
Petersham Auto: $375 set, BR $375 set, TRW


———————————
Parts + Fitting:
Wolfsberg Motors: $710 (all parts + install), $527 parts, $183.75 labour
BMS Autohaus: $950-1050 (all parts + install, Fronts $5-600, Rears $450) said might get price down, will ring back


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So, yeah, trying desperately to save money here, might be able to just machine the rear discs, they look pretty damn good compared to the front ones, front discs definitely need replacing.

The SCA quotes I got were all for DBA discs and Bendix Pads, HSY brand was APE for both discs and pads I think he said (?), Auto One/Euro Spares was something similar in Euro parts ITE maybe?

Let me know what you think, any suggestions for other parts places etc. definitely welcome...

The only 1 place I got a quote for the parts and labour was a bit high for the parts.. told were Zimmerman discs and ATE pads.. I'll be getting a couple more quotes for parts and labour tomorrow..

[dylan8]

why not do it yourself? probably the easiest job iv done as long as you dont let the fluid reservoir run low.
that included new bearings, calipers and drop plates being installed at the same time.
make sure the rear calipers are wound back too when swapping pads. was the undoing of my original pads.

I was so happy with the stopping power when I replaced everything. All my pads came from ECS, rear rotors from ECS, front rotors were some 'performance' drilled and slotted beasts I picked up off a mate. try GSL Rallysport too, they are a sponsor on here


235/40/18s use to be much cheaper than 225/40/18s as noted above, but not sure if thats the case any more as current falcoons and crummydores run more like a 245/45/18 now.
I think there is a few more cars on the market these days with 225/40/18 so they have come down in line in price with the 235s.
if you can fit the 235 go for it, be more grip and will correct the speedo slightly, will however mean slightly more drag due to extra surface contact.

[blackers10]

$366.75 delivered for Resma pads and Fremax rotors and a bottle of brake fluid from Brakes Direct.

install yourself

[kendog]

Cheers Blackers, yeah, I was looking at those prices already after checking your first post link.. tossing up waiting for freight to Sydney, vs getting something done this weekend.. I also like the sound of the ceramic pads from HSY.. but not saving anything there.. Hmmm..

Dylan... DAMN YOU! ... I just lost a ****load of time looking at ECS.. haven't done that in ages!! Hahahahaha

I always wanted one of their rear brake spacer/upgrade kits to fix the rears from looking so tiny and pathetic!! Takes the 232mm to 280mm, using existing calipers/pads etc:
https://www.ecstuning.com/Volkswagen...ance/ES205359/

Might not stop that much better, but look a lot less pathetic in the rear!

Jesus Christ they have some cheap rotor and pads prices.. and that's for pairs of rotors too, like $81.22 for a PAIR of 288x25mm genuine VW front rotors! With Free shipping in the US too! Brembo pair for $90. Pity most of the savings are lost in currency conversion and shipping.. *shakes fist!

As far as the tyres go Dylan, I'll take a photo of how it's sitting tomorrow, rears are pretty close to the guard as it is (rocking the 15mm spacers these days, looks WAY better), and scrub a little every now and then on some bumps.. you might end up recommending I stay at 225 if you think the 235mm's will scrub way worse..

(I've been wanting to lift the rear up a few mm anyway, just not much more thread left on the rear coilovers to do so, rear springs seem too weak/compressed).

Thanks again lads! I'll keep sussing it out..

[kendog]

Ah yeah, Dylan, what's the deal with the rear calipers needing to be wound back? My mate mentioned that too, do I need a special tool etc? Cheers!