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Check for corrosion on the electrical connector to the pedal, had this in my MK5. It had no power, slow to accelerate but would cruise ok.
Unplugged cleaned and reconnected, cleared codes = All good.
MK4 GTI - Sold
MK5 Jetta Turbo - Sold
MK5 Jetta 2.Slow - Until it dies.
Took it out the easy way. I used 2 bicycle spokes with the ends turned in a couple of mm to make tiny hooks. Slid them between the coil and the head, hooked them on the bottom of the coil and pulled it out.
I'm not happy with the amount of oil the coil was soaked in, hope it's been collecting for a long time otherwise the rocker cover has to come off and a new seal put on.
While I was replacing the coil I had a look at all the sparkplugs. All were a nice light grey but needed the gap closed a bit. Put them all to 35 thou and the car runs sweeter now.
FarQ, any help with the workshop manual greatly appreciated. Let me know if you want to sell it.
The car has been dropped off for the sparky to check and he's come back with a faulty throttle and maybe a couple of oxygen sensors. Spoke to my Bora expert and he doubts it's the sensors so does anyone have a fly-by-wire throttle for sale cheap?
The car has been dropped off for the sparky to check and he's come back with a faulty throttle and maybe a couple of oxygen sensors. Spoke to my Bora expert and he doubts it's the sensors so does anyone have a fly-by-wire throttle for sale cheap?
Dismantle the throttle body and clean the contacts inside normally works 50% if the time worth trying to save $$$
Too late, bought a replacement but it made no difference. Swapped them on the weekend and the new (2nd hand) throttle does exactly the same - only opens the butterfly valve about 30%.
Even though the sparky said the accelerator pedal is working fine I think something at that end of the electrical signal isn't right. When I clear all fault codes and start the car the EPC light goes out and no new fault codes come up but only as long as I don't touch the accelerator pedal. As soon as I rest my foot on the pedal the EPC light comes back on and the scanner says P1630 again.
There are 6 wires connected to the accelerator pedal and the pedal has 3 arms that move when you push the pedal. Logic says it has 3 separate electrical circuits to work the throttle which makes sense. You don't want the car accidentally accelerating if something happens to one of the circuits.
Time to pull the pedal out to check it, and the voltage going to it and what voltage is getting to the throttle.
Buy another one but this time it's an Oettinger 4MO. Plus it's the same colour so I can sneak my old one over to a mates place and park the new one without my wife knowing I've bought another one.
Last edited by sports racer; 20-02-2020, 05:33 PM.
Buy another one but this time it's an Oettinger 4MO. Plus it's the same colour so I can sneak my old one over to a mates place and park the new one without my wife knowing I've bought another one.
Give that man a New.
Well played sir. Car looks good btw
2004 VW Bora 4motion | 3.2 Swapped - R32 Trimmings | BBS CH | Forever fixing this bitch
I caught the bus from Canberra Friday night and got into Melbourne 8:30 Saturday morning. My VW mechanic mate was there to pick me up and we went straight out to pick this up.
5 min after buying it this happened. Zoom in on the wheel - that's not going to buff out.
I felt a vibration in the front end and was looking for somewhere to pull over on the freeway when the wheel took off, trying to pass all the traffic on the inside lane. Little bugger went for 200 metres before it stopped, with me running after it.
I nursed the car on it's half flat space saver spare wheel to the nearest servo to pump it up then to my mates place.
There's no way I was going to drive 900 ks home on a space saver wheel so the next 4 hours were spent getting a real wheel to fit and replacing the ancient battery which wouldn't hold a charge.
Last edited by sports racer; 03-03-2020, 02:45 PM.
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