Couldn't resist

[sports racer]

Looks like I might be buying a Bora 4motion, the price for this one is too good to pass up.



It’s cheap because it doesn’t accelerate, especially in 1st gear. Might be MAF, might be fuel starvation or dud sensors so will need troubleshooting and parts replaced to fix it.

Where’s the best place to get parts from?

Thanks

Paul

[Sirocco20348]

Looks like I might be buying a Bora 4motion, the price for this one is too good to pass up.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]34337[/ATTACH]

It’s cheap because it doesn’t accelerate, especially in 1st gear. Might be MAF, might be fuel starvation or dud sensors so will need troubleshooting and parts replaced to fix it.

Where’s the best place to get parts from?

Thanks

Paul

I normally source parts from eBay that are shipped from UK/Latvia/Poland etc

Most are genuine or high quality OEM replica from meyle etc. But now with the import tax I'm not sure how the prices fair.. probably still way cheaper

Sent from my LG-H870DS using Tapatalk

[Bora Sport]

I had problems early on (back in 2004/5) with my 2001 Bora and it was the MAF. It was a fairly common fault back then. The replacement is MAF is still going strong though at 440,000 plus kilometres. Check the pipework behind the engine for vacuum leaks too. I've honestly not had any other engine issues with mine since. Sometimes the inlet water temperature sensor can give trouble.

[beale187]

Looks like I might be buying a Bora 4motion, the price for this one is too good to pass up.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]34337[/ATTACH]

It’s cheap because it doesn’t accelerate, especially in 1st gear. Might be MAF, might be fuel starvation or dud sensors so will need troubleshooting and parts replaced to fix it.

Where’s the best place to get parts from?

Thanks

Paul

Congrats man, good to see another 4motion saved. Friend of mine is wrecking one if you get stuck for parts just pm me and I'll connect the you two. His is an 04' BDE Engine

[sports racer]

I took it for a short test drive and it's smooth but has no power, the car is in limp home mode. Pressing the accelerator pedal more than a centimetre makes no difference, the car slowly accelerates but an old Mazda 121 is quicker. Disconnecting the MAF sensor made no difference so that part isn't faulty.

The previous owner had it checked by an auto electrician and they diagnosed faulty ECU due to shorted oxygen sensor (which has since been replaced) but it doesn't make sense. If it was shorted it would give a false reading not kill the ECU. The car starts and idles properly and slowly accelerates when you put your foot down so the ECU is working.

I'll pick it up next week and first thing to check is if it's getting enough fuel. Is there anything else I should check?

Cheers

Paul

[Water Boy]

Mate best thing to do would have it scanned with a VCDS cable.
Eliminates the guessing games!

[sports racer]

Done, scan says it's a faulty oxygen sensor, no other problem found. That's why I need to check the fuelling as it's not part of the scan.

Here's what the auto electrician did for the previous owner after they replaced the oxygen sensor. Doesn't give me much faith in their abilities to find the real cause of the problem.

[beale187]

That invoice does not inspire confidence.

I had a sort of similar problem while back which turned out to be short to ground. Although there were many other symptons as well, lack of power was one of them. Struggling to see how a shorted oxy sensor would destroy an ECU though. Which oxy sensor is the scan picking up?

[sports racer]

There's no way a oxy sensor would destroy an ECU. A scan on a VW will report faulty oxy sensor if it thinks something is wrong but can't report on it eg fuel delivery.

Something I didn't notice the other night was if the engine warning light is on. If it is not on then the car isn't in limp home mode. If it isn't in limp home mode then the problem is not the ECU or caused by a sensor.

I'm slowly eliminating what could be causing the problem but it's not until I pickup the car that I can get serious about troubleshooting.

[jmcc]

so apparently it is a thing with the 1.8t, if you short the O2 sensor it fries the ECU.

here's a vortex link talking about it
VWVortex.com - mk4 GTI throttle issues/EPC light/engine cut-out

It's mentioned a bit more on vortex, nefmoto, came up a lot when I was looking at throttle issues in facebook groups too.

[sports racer]

Thanks for the link, makes for interesting reading.

Is the 4motion throttle fly-by-wire or cable operated?

[jmcc]

That would be a question for beale187, I don't know much about the power train configurations of boras, just golf's.

Both have throttle drivers though, because the cable throttles still have electronic idle control.

It's easy enough to tell if you pop the hood though.

[beale187]

That would be a question for beale187, I don't know much about the power train configurations of boras, just golf's.

Both have throttle drivers though, because the cable throttles still have electronic idle control.

spot on, used to help increase idle when engine is under load (e.g. Turning the a/c on)

4motions are fly by wire as well.

[beale187]

That would be a question for beale187, I don't know much about the power train configurations of boras, just golf's.

Both have throttle drivers though, because the cable throttles still have electronic idle control.

spot on, used to help increase idle when engine is under load (e.g. Turning the a/c on)

4motions are fly by wire as well.

[sports racer]

Picked it up yesterday. When I drove it to my brothers about 5 ks away it was slow but kept up with the traffic (just). I got to 200 metres from his place and it lost all power, wouldn't rev at all past idle. I bunny hopped the last 200 metres and parked it for the night. Today I went back with a new fuel filter and it's heaps better. The old filter was so blocked I couldn't blow through it, no wonder it ran so bad. Glad it was the previous owner and not me who spent heaps on troubleshooting by the "experts" and replacing parts that they said were faulty.

I spent a whole $23 for the filter and it's much better. There's power below 2500 rpm but not much above that so I drove the 100 ks home in 6th all the way. By the time I got home the powerband was up to 2700. At this rate it should be ok by Christmas.

How long does it take for the computer to reset itself now that it has proper fuel pressure? Should I disconnect the battery to help it reset?

Cheers

Paul