Bora R32 Build Thread

[dylan8]

It's happening!
Thanks for sharing all the numbers and documenting the whole thing.

Where you were discussing the driveshaft. Did you happen to compare the lengths when full compressed vs full extended. I would have thought the 32 one was a smidge longer (or atleast had a longer reach) as the suspension track is wider.
But maybe the bearing plays some part in that

Sent from my HTC 2PZC100 using Tapatalk

[beale187]

Didn't measure them exactly but the R32 one does seem a bit. Looking back at that pic I'm thinking the extra length is picked up at the axle end cup (just before the splines) looks to be about 10mm longer.

[beale187]

Brakes.

So I had my mechanic fit some R32 brakes about 2yrs when he changed the master cyclinder.

Rotors and pads were shot pretty much on all 4 corners and the paint was looking very sad. So I took the opportunity over the 4 day long weekend to rip in and replace and repaint the lot.

Jacked it up, removed the wheels.

First step, clamp all the lines.



starting at the rear, lever down the handbrake cable bracket and push the cable end out.


disconnect and cap the line and plug the caliper.



undo the slide pins (install back to 38nM)


undo the carrier bolts. (install back to 80nM)


And it's off.

[beale187]

Fronts are much easier

undo the brake pad wear sensor


undo bracket line support bracket (10nM) and brake line


remove carrier bolts (install self locking bolts back 125nM, clean if reusing)


Done

[beale187]

next up was the most time consuming sh*t of the whole process.

Stripping down, cleaning and masking them up.

Started by splitting the front caliper and carrier.

remove the protective cap


then slide pin (install back to 25nM)


push the pistons back.


* Rear pistons are twist and push, may need a rewind tool for that job *

Hit everything with a degreaser, then a hose down, then hot water and dishwashing liquid with a scrubbing brush.
After that, dremel with a wire wheels, wire brushes, sand paper. Basically whatever it takes to get those b*tches clean, even if it means you remove a little paint. THEN another quick wash


On the rear, you can pull off the slide pin bushes. On the front I found it easier to push them from the side that faces the pad. Little bit of WD40 helped


Also decided to sand down any rust spot where bare metal was exposed. For example where the pads ride.

Before


After


Then time to mask up.

[beale187]

once masked, wiped everything down with prep wash and it was time for paint.

So after A LOT of research into getting the colour right.

This is what I've found.
The VW Colour code LW5Z - Jazz Blue is what the colour of the calipers is rumored to be.

HOWEVER, this paint code globally is a metallic. Our calipers are not metallic.

So the colour "Ultra-Marine Blue - Code: RAL5002" is a VERY close match.

Quick comparison (this is WAY more detail then I was planning on going into!)


Went for a 2k aerosol. This paint is a colour and hardener in one and finishes to semi gloss.


Pull the pin to release the hardener, shake like hell and you have 24hrs to use it.


Paint time!




quick comparison

Old V New


Whilst all this was getting some dry time out on my make shift hanging rack decided to clean up the pad retainers.

[beale187]

Onto day 4 of this madness, unfortunately due to the cold weather the paint was not touch dry until the next day.

removed all the masking tape, regreased all the slide pins.


Then it was install time.


New dust shields, new bolts, screws, rotors, pads, fluids.



Before


After


Rears before


After


Side note: My old OE pads had the wear sensor and the new Brembo's did not.
So to remove the stupid brake pad wear sensor warning from the cluster I coded it out using VCDS.

Flushed all the lines (used the old "2 person" method"). Cycled the ABS pump using VCDS just to be sure. Done!

[MIG]

That paint job looks awesome, good work on getting the colour right.
Where did you get the 2k colour clear mix from? I have used 2k clears in a can before and you can get a week or two out of them if you keep the cans in the fridge after activating.

[beale187]

Thanks mate, it was a 4 day long process!

The paint I picked up from a local paint shop "R&D Paint Shop" But the paint itself comes from the UK. Link below;

ProXL Automotive Refinishing Products / Specialists in aerosol solutions

So far I'm about a month (1,200-1,500kms) on them, no bubble, peel or fade. Mainly heavy traffic and we've had a lot of rain as well.

And they still look perfect.

[sports racer]

Pretty sure if I look up OCD in the dictionary there's a picture of you.

[beale187]

Pretty sure if I look up OCD in the dictionary there's a picture of you.

Yes I know, i'm a sick... sick man.

[beale187]

Haven't updated this in while.

Back in December I was cruising home from work and the pedal just sunk to the floor. Popped the bonnet to find hydraulic fluid all down the back of the firewall. Turns out the clutch line "dampener" had split open.

VW don't sell the dampener separate to the line and a new line was about $400 and the best bit... It was 8-12week back ordered from Germany.

So after speaking with a friend of mine he suggested the following.

Male/Female Hydraulic adapter M10x1 Drill point, then attaching a Female/Female Adapter, again M10x1. Using the 2 adapters gives you roughly the equal length of the dampener.

Been running this now for approx 3mths, maybe 15,000kms. Zero issues and clutch feel is exactly the same - just more over engineering from ze-Germans.

Here's the dampener.



RIP.


Replacement Parts




Old one out and new one in.

[Lucas_R]

Just had a read through this thread mate - wow. Great deal of time, effort and money you have put into this car (well, various cars).

Great pics, info and part numbers for people to reference as well. Well done.

[beale187]

Just had a read through this thread mate - wow. Great deal of time, effort and money you have put into this car (well, various cars).

Great pics, info and part numbers for people to reference as well. Well done.

Thanks mate, it's a love / hate relationship

Still so much left to do.

[beale187]

So 12mths later on stock EU suspension and this thing is still chewing up rear tyres. Been to 2 separate tyre places, 3 times (admittingly Jax & CC tyres are just sausage factories) and both have told me there isn't any more adjustment left in any of the arms, bushes are good and nothing is bent. So finally bit the bullet and purchased some Project Silver Adjustable rear arms.



Also went with new hardware because I love burning cash on nuts and bolts.

Installation was fairly straight forward

Remove the spring (remove the lower shock bolt first, re-torque to 110nM)


Doing it one arm at a time, unbolt the 18mm nut at either end of the arm and remove.

Started with the upper arm, outward position.
*Note bolt orientation, outward upper bolt faces forward*


*Outward Lower bolt faces rear*


Inner bolt and nut


And immediately hit a snag, cannot remove inner bolt WITHOUT removing subframe mounting bolt, again it's a 18mm.
(re-torque 110nM +90)


Pulled the stock arm out and placed it side by side the SP adjustable ones.
Ran the old bolts through both arms to "preset" the adjustable arm to the stock length, then tightened the 26mm locking nut.


Then did all that sh*t in reverse to get them back installed. Re-torque all 18mm nuts back to 70nM + 90'




So before the install I was on about 2" neg camber at the rear

Before


After alignment, now sits at 0.26 neg camber


Hopefully this will stop me from chewing through PS5's and I can spend my money on other dumb sh*t.