Bora R32 Build Thread

[beale187]

Sure was. A lot of work though just to run twist type floor mats.

[beale187]

finally got my DG short shifter and bushing kit all installed.


32mm hole in the side of the shift tower for ease of access

old new


new


OEM v DG Bushings


OEM v DG end links


end linkes at the tower (FYI - the nut on the top of the gearbox is 20nM. Do not overtighten!)


After numerous adjustments at the end links (one of which resulted in me having no Reverse, 1st or 2nd) finally got it, you want 3-4threads sticking out of the front / back cable. The throw is shorter but not by much. Throws feel notchy and tight.

If you we're ballin' on a budget I think you could get away with just doing the bushings it's definitely where the biggest improvement was felt.

[beale187]

So for the past 12mths (basically the whole time I've owned it) it has been a continual fixing of @%#$ing coolant leaks.

Fix one, springs a leak somewhere else. Which is a little disappointing as most of this stuff was replaced only 2yrs prior to me buying it (so I'm told)

This one was the first to be fixed. O-ring was as hard as rock when I pull it out is actually snapped. Changed them both.


Then this one. Incorrect clamp used (should have still worked I would have thought..) but it was leaking here also, broke the tee-piece removing the lines. Replaced that with OEM and OEM pinch clamp


Then this one happened. Replaced OEM ball and cap with pressure valve.


This one, incorrect clamp used.


This one.. same again.


And finally, boom. 2yr old Nissens Radiator just blew out, fml...



Fortunately I had spares of all this stuff I could pull off the old white Bora.
But for the record the OEM Radiators are made by - Valeo P/N: 1J0121253S

[sports racer]

Think I'll go and check my cooling system as well.

[Gez110]

I feel you pain mate, I've been chasing coolant leaks on mine for months now! Latest one was a blanked T off the crack pipe. Had to pull the front panel off to find the damn thing!

[beale187]

Haven't updated this thread in a while, so here goes.

April 2021 - Lost clutch pedal. Found the seals on the bleeder block had blown out. The MKIV seals have been revised and now share the same style seal as the MK5's.

Old style seals that sit inside the bleeder block


New style seal (slides over the clutch line)


Also got sick of the BC coilovers that were just eating tyres (too much neg camber)

On BC's




Threw the stock springs just to get a base line height (approx 37mm)


Then finally decided to put the R32 stock suspension in. Can confirm R32 v Stock Bora suspension gave me a drop of about 10-15mm all round. Firmed up the suspension nicely also. You can see the height difference in the rear springs.









Final ride height (approx 35.5mm)

[beale187]

June.

Driving to work, get this message "STOP OIL PRESS" warning, was intermittent over a few days.

So that weekend decided to drop the sump to see what's going on.

Find a piece of the plastic baffling floating around in the sump, I can only assume it was occasionally getting caught in the oil pickup.

Was pretty happy though, oil was clean with minimal sludge. Cleaned up the sump, checked the oil pick up and went back to business. Curious, found a QR code on the bottom of the block?

[beale187]

July.

This motherf@&^er. More coolant leaks.


Decided to pull everything apart (again, 5mths after the changing the last radiator) only to find the radiator was leaking in the exact spot as last time.



Surely couldn't be a coincidence? Nope, turns out this whole time it was the fan assembly. It's either from an 4cyc (VR fans are slimline) OR I suspect it's an aftermarket Topran assembly. Anytime there was some "spirited driving" or heavy braking, the fan assembly was slowly punching the radiator.

The center of the Topran fan assembly sat much prouder in the shroud then the OEM - Not too mention the sharp bolt ends.

Topran


OEM 2.8 Bora


Almost forgot the mention, look like the whole shroud was bowed in the middle.


Replaced everything, finger crossed that's the end of the coolant saga.

[dylan8]

Interested in what's your findings on the vr6 fans being thinner? Is that to allow for a big radiator or more space at the rear?

Sent from my HTC 2PZC100 using Tapatalk

[beale187]

Interested in what's your findings on the vr6 fans being thinner? Is that to allow for a big radiator or more space at the rear?

Sent from my HTC 2PZC100 using Tapatalk

V5/V6/R32 all run a 34mm core radiator, so the fans are slimmer
4cyc's run a 26mm core radiator.

They all have the same mounting points so physically they're all interchangeable but as above you gotta run the slimmer fans on the VR's to avoid the problem I had. You could probably run a 26mm radiator if you had one and got stuck but I wouldn't run it long term. VR's run hot baby

[dylan8]

Interesting. Might save me importing some stuff for the wagoon

[beale187]

So for a while now I've had this annoying whistling noise and a hunting idle so I knew I had a vac leak somewhere.

Tracked it down to the PCV diaphragm, which is common issue on the MK5 3.2's. Whistling noise was coming from here.


Worse bit, some F&^%ing moron at VW decided to put it inside the valve cover. So to replace it was a bitch.

Figured whilst I had the manifold and valve cover off I'd replace all the seals and give the valve cover and manifold a lick of paint. Also ordered some R36 blue coil pack covers to suit.

Parts ready to go. Replacement PCV diaphragm from RKX Tech in the US. Hard to Find Parts and Accessories for Volkswagen and Audi Vehicles – RKXtech
Also ordered a 5mm block off cap from OCDEURO Australia | VAG Auto Parts | Internal Chassis Bracing to put on the back of the manifold where the charcoal canister was deleted by the previous owner.


Manifold & valve cover painted


Previous owner blocked the port on the back of the manifold where the charcoal canister would normally go by cutting the tube and sticking an old allen key in there. Remember, it's not stupid if it works.


Block off cap installed


manifold off


Good time to clean out carbon build up on the intake port. 1 down, 5 to go.


Valve cover off


Quick inspection of the Schrick 268/264 cams. I'm assuming this is the batch number.





Old PCV diaphragm, thing had holes in it all over the place.


New RKX one installed, pulled the oil separator apart and gave it a thorough clean.


Threw everything back together. Included torque specs below for future reference.



ALSO note, for anyone reading this with the same problem. There is an easier solution (which I was not aware of until after completing this bullsh*t job) The VW Touareg 3.2 has a similar PCV setup but the diaphragm is located EXTERNAL of the valve cover. Link below with a detailed write up of how it works, parts needed and how to repair it without going through the process I did above.

3.2 VR-6 (BUB) PCV Diaphragm Replacement Alternative | Audi TT Forum

[beale187]

Another thing that was really bugging me was the 2.8 harness runs along the top of the manifold but the 3.2 runs along the bottom.

So I started stripping off all the split tubing and begun wrapping the harness in TESA tape. Unfortunately I hit 2 snags.

First being that 3 wires were not longer enough to route along the bottom. Second being the coil packs on 2,4,6 would not seat properly when rotated 180' degrees. After speaking with another legend on here he advised some of the coil packs were different lengths. Yet to confirm this but I suspect that may be the issue. Anyway tidied it up best i could and left it for another day.

split tubing just fell apart


Attempt to reroute wiring


Before


After

[beale187]

Nov 2021.

So I've had all the trims and bits required to swap my hood lining over to black (like the US spec Jetta GLi's) problem being though LHR door is completely deadlocked. The RHR door was playing up also (would lock/unlock electronically, but not mechanically)
Drivers doors was also developing issues (wouldn't unlock from the inside OR outside) either.

After dealing with MK4 door lock issues for likes 8yrs across probably 6-7 different Bora's I've owned I bit the bullet and ordered all new OEM door locks and hardware from overseas.



I'm not going into a lot of detail on replacing these as there is already plenty of information out there.

With RHR door trim removed (yes it can be removed with the door closed) I had no option but to take a screwdriver and hammer and being destroying the door lock from within.



First step is to separate the electrical portion of the lock module from the mechanical part.



once it's separated, pry up the metal plate (circled below) and you can begin rotating the lock.


and presto, only 4-5hrs later and the door is open!

[beale187]

the lock carriers are not supplied with the door lock modules and have to be purchased separately. You can get away with not even using them but I figured they probably help support and reduce vibration to the door lock and for the $6 or whatever they are I just bought them.

They are pop riveted to lock module which is a bitch. When reinstalling all my new locks and carriers I went with a bolt, nut and spring washer arrangement to make it easier to change in the future should I need to.







Probably the only other bit worth mentioning is on the rear doors, the window pins need to be pressed in BEFORE the window is installed. Once they're pressed in you can simply drop the window in and the pin will lock into the window carrier.