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VW MK3 GOLF 8V TO 16V CONVERSION

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  • #61
    Loon, I have your answer...

    Most things are hooked up, but I had to leave it at that for now...

    Never the less, I'm really happy with this weekends progress!!!

    (crap pics, i only had my phone, I'll get some better ones)

    Last edited by golf3; 31-07-2006, 06:10 PM.

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    • #62
      nice work mate!!! next week start up?
      VW: it aint just a car, its a way of life
      There are few things more satisfying in life than finding a solution to a problem and implementing it
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      • #63
        Niiice
        Getting there mate. Putting the front back on always takes longer than you think. Should be making noises soon though.
        sigpic Camden GTI Performance. VW / AUDI Specialists
        All Mechanical Work, Log book Servicing, New and used Parts and Imports
        19-20/6 Badgally Road, Campbelltown, 2560
        02 4627 3072 or 0423 051737 www.camdengti.com

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        • #64
          Did a little bit more work today...

          I found a bolt and nut for the gear selector, and now I can select gears, albeit vaguely...

          I have hooked up all the coolant and heater hoses, and aircon and power steering, except for those to the radiator and condensor...

          The accelerator cable works, and the vacuum line for the brake booster had to be extended, but lines up now...

          I still have plugs that go to places i don't know, but etos will have to come help me in that regard...

          Otherwise, does the vacuum line that i'm holding go to the fuel pressure regulator...??? Or is the regulator hooked up to a vacuum line in the intake???

          And can someone please go into paint and show me which ignition lead goes to which plug from the distributor???

          Are there any timing adjustments to be made??

          Thanks!
          SEAN...



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          • #65
            the fuel pressure hose connects to the intake after the throttle body to the hose connector at the back of the top intake, ie right behind the "16V", , but the hose your holding i cant really see it all that well, ,could be for the computer if running after market and that too gets connected to the intake, or something to do with the emmisions stuff.. but thats all i can help you with, positive about the fuel regulator hose though...
            Last edited by finemk1; 31-07-2006, 07:00 PM.
            the golf is not dead.

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            • #66
              i just checked on my car cos i remember seeing a white hose like that one on my car sean. And well. i had never taken notice. but. one end is hanging free like that. I traced it back to the other end. it goes to my washer bottle motor and then out the other side of it and it just has a bolt iplugging it.. so yeah. weird. Id be interested in knowing what the deal with that is too if its the same one. where does yours go to?

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              • #67
                Number 1 - blocked off...

                Number 2 - ???

                Number 3 - Brake booster

                Number 4 - Fuel Pressure regulator???

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                • #68
                  I put the front of the car back on...
                  YAY!
                  Called Valver, and found out which posi on the distributor is what...
                  THANKS A LOT BUD!

                  Here's my teary, and i need HELP

                  The coolant is leaking from the head at the front waterneck...

                  The oil light is FLASHING!

                  The injectors aren't spraying anything (either no signal or blocked. There is fuel getting to the rail though)

                  So, to sum it up...

                  It's not cranking over...

                  I'm sad!

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                  • #69
                    I need one of these...

                    Part number...
                    either 037 121 132 J or 037 121 133 J

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                    • #70
                      Hi mate, got your sms last night... I think I replied, but not sure if I actually sent it (had quite a celebration last night!! lol).

                      Ok... Vaccuum lines:

                      Number ONE can't be blocked off -> it usually runs to the airbox factory airbox, so run a line off it and drill and tap in an outlet into your metal intake pipe.

                      Number TWO: ECU Vaccuum line - there's an attachment/port just above the main harness connection; you need to run the line to that.

                      Number THREE: Yep, to the booster.

                      Number FOUR: Yep, that is for the regulator.

                      The coolant is probably leaking from the head as there's no gasket behind the waterneck. You have to use a new one, especially on a motor that's been sitting around. Check if it's there - I doubt it is.

                      Check if you have the feed and return fuel lines the right way around. There are arrows -->in and <--out on the top and bottom.

                      Check you've connected the harness to the fuel rail.

                      Pull the rail, leave it connected to the fuel system and power and try and turn over the motor and look for the spray. If fuel is getting there and returning, but not spraying, they mustn't be getting a signal... I doubt they're blocked, but I'm no genius.
                      Last edited by Valver.; 03-08-2006, 07:23 AM.

                      1976 Project Carbon Mk1 - Sold! | 2015 Lotus Exige Cup | F80 M3 Family Wheels

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                      • #71
                        Yeah you need a gasket behind the waterneck. I bought 2 new ones and got no gaskets with them

                        Oil switches could be the wrong way round.

                        You are getting close though I reckon.
                        Last edited by Golf Loon; 03-08-2006, 08:56 AM.
                        sigpic Camden GTI Performance. VW / AUDI Specialists
                        All Mechanical Work, Log book Servicing, New and used Parts and Imports
                        19-20/6 Badgally Road, Campbelltown, 2560
                        02 4627 3072 or 0423 051737 www.camdengti.com

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                        • #72
                          Yeah..

                          I don't know where that ECU vacuum line goes to...oh well...

                          I'm pretty sure the fuel lines to the rail are they right way around...
                          And i did take the rail off and there was no spray when i was cranking it over...My mates thought i was crazy to do it and had the fire extinguisher handy...

                          As far as the waterneck, there is a thin plastic ring around the hole, and that has broken away in sections, so it may be that. The rubber gasket is new, as that was with the head gasket kit. Otherwise, the head is pitted around where the neck is. SO, i believe the water is escaping between the head and seal where the pitting is, not between the seal and plastic neck.

                          It's sending me loopy!

                          As for the oil light, god knows...

                          Any special tricks to check oil pressure?

                          How do stand alone oil pressure guages work??

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                          • #73
                            GOOD NEWS THEN BAD NEWS...

                            Because the oil light was flashing, I went out and purchased a oil pressure guage, autometer, and wired that in. It says i have 65psi when cranking over..

                            Loon then recommended checking for spark by using "start ya bastard" spray...
                            Sure enough, it fired up briefly!

                            Well, after checking all wiring up to the fuel rail, then taking the fuel rail apart, replacing a injector with an 8v item, then plugging it back in, it was then spraying fuel!!! So I put the 16v injector back into the rail...

                            AND IT STARTED...

                            It idles like crap, sucks all it's air in via the Number 2 (refer to previous picture) port on the throttle body... If you block that off it stalls... The idle stabilisation valve recieves a few volts, but i don't think it's doing it's job... Maybe the o2 sensor is bung...

                            Anyways, the bad news...

                            I hadn't run it for that long, but it started to run really badly...
                            I then noticed that the timing belt has slipped two teeth...

                            When the bottom timing marks are in line, the timing mark on the cam gear is two teeth to the right of the timing mark on the valve cover...

                            I have left it alone, as i am too tired and frustrated, and sad...

                            What steps should i take to check and rectify the problem...
                            I feel like a moron!

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                            • #74
                              i can't really speculate on the other items without seeing it.

                              It sounds to me like the cam timing was to far advanced to start with by which your ignition timing will also be advanced.
                              If is has slipped two teeth to the right the cam has advanced. Normally if a timing belt slips it retards the cam timing as the crank is the driver & the cam is the driven.
                              Last edited by Oneofthegreats; 04-08-2006, 10:08 PM.

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                              • #75
                                You are nearly there mate. Its always the hardsest stage going from when it makes noises to getting it running nicely. At least you know it has spark and fuel. All else can be fixed.

                                Back to basics.

                                1. Get the timing setup. you will have to put the bottom end at TDC, take the belt off, line up the top end and tighten the tensioner. You are suppossed to rotate the engine 3 times by hand and check that the marks still line up. Then go with the starter.

                                2. Sort out your vacuum leaks. The ecu needs to be attached to any vacuum, there are are few places it could go to. Block off that No2 leak. Once the timing is right, you can turn up the idle to commpensate if required. Dont worry about the ISV for now, it will run without it, just not as well.

                                You are so close man, I can smell it. Good luck let us know how you go.
                                sigpic Camden GTI Performance. VW / AUDI Specialists
                                All Mechanical Work, Log book Servicing, New and used Parts and Imports
                                19-20/6 Badgally Road, Campbelltown, 2560
                                02 4627 3072 or 0423 051737 www.camdengti.com

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