VW MK3 GOLF 8V TO 16V CONVERSION

[SOHC]

Wow, its lookin good there, erm... are those blue wires earth cables?did you juz change them as well?

[golf3]

RCA cables for sick mate subwoofer!

[Golf Loon]

Looking Good Sean

Have you got a pic of the engine sitting in there yet?

How`d the wiring go? Have you grown that extra elbow to reach under the dash?

[golf3]

Well, the block doesn't have a sump, head, and its missing a piston...So once the block is together again i will mate it to the box and trial fit...

But after looking at Tim's VR6, (thanks tim) i was able to check the brackets!!!

As for the wiring, I managed pretty well without an extra elbow, however, the rubber boot that sits in the firewall isn't in there right, well, not until i move either the brake master cylinder or brake booster...

[Golf Loon]

Any update? Or just looking during the week?
I have a manifold if you wanna go that route.

[Golf Loon]

Moved Across From Old Forum

Painted valve cover...

[Golf Loon]

Moved Across From Old Forum

I just polished the idle stabilizer too...
look how dirty it was in the photo above...
now it's reflecting!

[Golf Loon]

Any updates?

[WABIT]

yeah tell em what you got sean

wabit

[golf3]

Lots of news and pictures...
YAY!

So, I've spent more uber cash...

I picked up my clutch master cylinder and the required piping for it to go to the slave cylinder...

I then needed a VR6 pedal box, so Loon came to the rescue with immediate shipping! I owe much gratitude to you Matt as you were able to provide a detailed descirption and a great service! Cheers! Beers on me when I come to some VW show in NSW...


I also bought some belts, but still need the timing belt...

But more importantly, I recieved the head back today...
And it cost more than i was quoted, but what can you do?

Description

TO R & R CAMS AND BUCKETS
PRESSURE TEST
SUPPLY AND FIT 8 EXHAUST GUIDES
VALVE GRIND AND MACHINE
SET STEM PROTRUSIONS
SUPPLY AND FIT WLECH PLUG
POLISH PORTS

[GoLfMan]

mate that is hot!!! how long is it until you get it on the road?

[golf3]

It will be on the road as soon as I get timing belt, clutch kit, head bolts, ignition leads, rings and bearings...

Then install it...

So, probably ages...

By the way guys,
the head never came back with the chain installed, is this right???
I wanna make double sure!

[golf3]

Oh yer,
this is before!

[golf3]

Another thing...

Is there a correct way to mount the distributor??
I don't want it sparking on the wrong cylinders...

Also, how is the tensioner thing on the head supposed to be held in place. There's a bolt for it attached to the head, but the head people obviously dind't give me back the nut and washer to hold it into place...

Any special way to tighten the camshaft caps???

[Valver.]

This's the best way to fit the cams (in my opinion anyway): Stand them upright on the bench with the sprockets at the bottom. Put the chain around them and set the dots by looking directly down onto them.
With them set opposite eachother in the inside of the chainwheels, keep the chain taught and put them in the head. As long as you keep the chain tight they'll stay in the right place. If they twist when you drop them in, it'll be ok as they've turned, and not jumped teeth.
The centre of the dots should be level with the face of the head and the dots should be bang opposite eachother on the inside (ie they're as close as you can get them to eachother with the chain taught). Even one tooth out and the car will run like ****.

This is the only pic I can find - **THIS IS WITH THE CAMS -NOT- CORRECTLY LINED UP** The two dots must be exactly levelled with that ridge you see on the head casting:



When you torque them down, it's very hard to stop them spinning, so try to keep the chain taught so they turn as one piece and thus remain timed correctly in relation to eachother.

The ABF tensioner just has a nut and bolt on the end. It's also marked to show when the belt tension is correct. When the two arrows line up, the tension is spot on. Leave the slack on the back of the belt (the tensioner side) so when the tensioner loads up, it grabs the slack and won't pull the crank around. The intermediate shaft doesn't matter as it doesn't drive the dissy as on an 8v.

The bearing caps need to be done in order and torqued down progressively (you also should have numbered them on removal, but I think I told you that already?). I have a great pic to show how this is done, so will scan it and post it up to save explaining.

Pretty fiddly job, but not overly hard