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Hayden it's just a stage 1 build at this stage just to get some experience and tbh I think it's going to take quite some time to be able to even drive the 12v to it's full potential even with a stock motor.
We are doing this relatively cheaply so we are at this stage avoiding 24v because we don't want to buy standalone management at this stage. I'm sure one day it will happen because obviously 24v is the better/newer/smarter option.
Although a little less weight over the front wheels would be nice.. 20vt or something..
But as I said for now it's just build with what we've got trying to do this on a budget!
^ this.
If we want to go massive power, 1.8t will probably be the option, unless we can't stand getting rid of the sound of vr6.
Even then, we would probably go R32 or R36 if we were going to the trouble of standalone.
We don't have the parts either lol. I sold my 24v.
If you had a look on clubgti, I'm pretty sure that someone weighed a 20VT and a VR6 engine (complete, intercoolers, etc etc) and they were roughly the same weight (very minimal difference). The big difference/benefit of the 4cyl was that the centre of gravity of the was further back (behind the struts) where as the VR COG was futher forward of the strut towers. This obviously then affects the way the cars handles etc. (Alot of UK blokes are doing mk 2 track cars with 20VT/VR's, which is where I gleened this info from)
If you had a look on clubgti, I'm pretty sure that someone weighed a 20VT and a VR6 engine (complete, intercoolers, etc etc) and they were roughly the same weight (very minimal difference). The big difference/benefit of the 4cyl was that the centre of gravity of the was further back (behind the struts) where as the VR COG was futher forward of the strut towers. This obviously then affects the way the cars handles etc. (Alot of UK blokes are doing mk 2 track cars with 20VT/VR's, which is where I gleened this info from)
Cheers Jarred.
Yeh, couldn't imagine there would be too much difference once you add the weight of the turbo etc.
Obviously, is easier to extract power from the 1.8t on a budget though.
Yeah thankyou very much Jarred, its always nice to get the imput from people with the know how! its certainly changed alot of things in this build already which has been good to know before we get half way through doing something and then end up having to change it.
Engine mounts paid for so they should be here soon aswell as P/S delete
few other goodies are being organised atm but the main goal is getting it running and to nats!
Standalone isn't that difficult really when you look into it, im putting my e30 on Megasquirt in the near future, its cheap (should be under 500 to get everything you need) and the wiring and tuning aren't that complicated once you figure it out. Ive only realized how simple it really is after moving away from the vw, had always thought it was incredibly complicated and expensive from what id read on vw forums, but its quite the opposite actually. So i wouldn't let standalone put you off an engine swap.
That said, I vote stick with the 12v vr6 for now...
Thanks Ben
Always keen to have a go and see what we can do but yeah as we said previously we have alot to learn out of this 12v first I'd prefer to be underpowered anyway and tbh I think this will be a very powerful car to be learning in. I would have preferred a 2L to learn in but I already had this so this is the beginning
Megasquirt is balls on vw motors compared to haltech, lugtronic from what I've heard? But always open to different/more opinions !
I thought about using MS a while ago, for fun, for the learning experience etc etc. Here's my two bob (the short version!)
The biggest issue is, that if you balls up, get stuck, can't figure something out - you're on your own. (well, the MS forums would be pretty helpful I'd imagine)
I highly doubt there would be any workshop in OZ that has had experience troubleshooting and tuning a MS, as opposed to a haltech, wolf, autronic etc. which means paying twice as much, IF you have to pay someone to fix up, repair troubleshoot etc.
Having said that - that's only if something goes wrong. I still reckon it would be good fun. (although I've also read that its significantly more basic than all the 'pre-packaged' standalones.)
Also, when racing, you want it to be 100% reliable! Hence why I'm keeping my ABF very standard until I decide 'how far' I want to take the car.
That is correct jarred there is not the support such as those other standalone alternatives.
However, the idea of ms is that anyone can tune it.
I recently sent my ms loom to KPTuned in the states to have a plug and play loom made at the cost of $250 much cheaper than anything here and cheap enough that I didn't have to make my own loom.
The ms forums has a lot of maps for every type of engine package. 1.8t, 12v n/a and turbo. 24v etc.
Smeeb,
That would be awesome. How much do you want for rear hatch, front passenger door and drivers wing and windscreen?
My parents are actually on holiday down in Jervis Bay this week so maybe if I ask nicely they could pick it up for me, on their way back!
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