Originally posted by Jarred
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Welcome to the new look VWWatercooled
After much work and little sleep there is a new version of the forums running on more powerful and recent hardware as well as an upgraded software platform.
Things are mostly the same, but some things are a little different. We will be learning together, so please post questions (and answers if you've worked things out) in the help thread.
Things are mostly the same, but some things are a little different. We will be learning together, so please post questions (and answers if you've worked things out) in the help thread.

The new forum software is an upgraded version of what came before, it's mostly the same but also a little different. Hopefully easier to use and more stable than before.
We are learning together here, so please be patient. If you have questions, please post them here. If you have worked something out and can provide an answer,
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Jarred's Mk 2 GTI & silly questions.
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Yea, I'll defiantly put the mk 3 DP on now. I'm stuck with what to do with the head.
There's no point spending money on getting it ported and stuff, I'm hoping it's not damaged, so I can just pop it back on, and get brapping again, but at the same time, the lifters are getting a bit noisy, and I wouldn't mind a slightly better cam.
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If it only costs $350 for a complete Audi 2 litre long motor why bother to repair your motor?1978 MK1 2.0 16v http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/foru...-46488-70.html
1991 MK2 GTI 2.0 8v, white (RIP) and it's red replacement http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/foru...gti-42078.html
1997 MK3 CL http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/foru...ml#post1292061
2001 & 2002 Bora 4motion. http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/foru...st-123823.html
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a) then I have to do an engine swap, and whilst the engine may only cost $350, I'll end up buying other parts at the time and it'll cost me more.
b) then I have a new engine, and potentially a new can of worms. ie new problems with the 'new' engine,. Realistically, if I put a new engine in, I'd do a whole bunch of seals and gaskets (inc the head gasket) at a minimum. (part of the do it once, do it right principle)
c) I've driven in a mk 2 with a 2.0 bottom w 1.8 head, and a few other mods (basics: chip, AFM etc) and I can't say it went phenominally better than just my (standard even) 1.8. I'd prefer to spend the extra money on suspension & brakes. Sure it was an improvement.
d) I can't be bothered! Just want to get it up and running again. (only have 1 car atm, and this one wasn't meant to be a 'project')
If the head is damage and needs replacing, I'll hunt around for a cheap second handy, but If nothing comes up (at a decent price) I might look into a complete engine.
Just a few ideas off the top of my head anyways.
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My car has the 90hp engine so a 115hp 2 litre swap makes sense for me. What has been done to your car to make the difference so small?1978 MK1 2.0 16v http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/foru...-46488-70.html
1991 MK2 GTI 2.0 8v, white (RIP) and it's red replacement http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/foru...gti-42078.html
1997 MK3 CL http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/foru...ml#post1292061
2001 & 2002 Bora 4motion. http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/foru...st-123823.html
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I'm not basing my decision based on factory numbers. I'm basing it on experience. The 2.0 with 1.8 head is meant to be more comp, more capacity and hence more power, but when I was in one last, it didn't impress me that much, so I'm not in a hurry to go out and do it. This isn't my project car, it's my daily, so I need it back on the road sooner, rather than later.
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Dammit pedro. jsut damn. I'll come pick it up at Nats!
So I took the head off today, didn't take too long, but a mk 1 is just so much simpler! haha
Only took about 3 hours mainly due to the various manifold bolts being PIA's!
I havn't taken the injectors out, is there a special tool for that??? ( I dont want to break them afterall)
I had a quick look around the offending cylinder (3) and I've found what seems to be a small something, between a water gallery and combustion chamber, so I'm assuming that's where the problem was! Looks like I'll have to get the head shaved/machined just slightly. I'll take it down to RG Baker tomorrow morning, (on the bus) and see what they say! (see last pic
Some pics:
yum!
Inlet off:
exhaust & head off:
head:
offending cyl:
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Ah well, it'll go better when it's fixed.
I know you've got a twin pipe manifold to go in there but this method of expanding the clips of death is worth mentioning anyway.
How far are you going with the reco? If you're just going to get it skimmed I'd suggest you do the stem seals while it's out and de-coke the valves too.
I've got a tool for pulling the k-jet injectors, not sure if the digi injectors just pull out the same way.
Pete79 MK1 Golf Wreck to Race / 79 MK1 Golf The Red Thread / 76 MK1 Golf Kamei Race Car
7? MK1 Caddy
79 B1 Passat Dasher Project
12 Amarok
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I'd prefer to just get it back on ASAP, I'm not too fussed with getting it ported, new valves & etc. Don't have the time/money atm. I was not planning on having to do this at all! (grrrr)
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If you get a VRS gasket kit it'll have stems seals in it along with the head gasket and rocker cover gasket etc.
May as well pop them in it doesn't take long to do. Gimme a call over the weekend.
Pete79 MK1 Golf Wreck to Race / 79 MK1 Golf The Red Thread / 76 MK1 Golf Kamei Race Car
7? MK1 Caddy
79 B1 Passat Dasher Project
12 Amarok
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Yea I'm getting a VRS kit. I've got saturday off work, so hopefully I'll swing past then. Cheers Pete
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You just wiggle the injectors and they pull out IIRC. Once the rail is off, it's just the O rings that hold them in. Swift decoke and stem seals is worth the time, while it's all off.
Gavin
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