Mk1 2L/1.8 Hybrid Conversion

[Mk1DUB]

Ok guys, so I'm starting a thread to follow along with my conversion. I know there are plenty out there.. but I wanted to document mine anyway for reference and for laughs.

Here's what I'm still looking for...

- Adapter for mk2 dizzy on 2L block
- 2L Crank case blanking plate and freeze plug
- 2L head gasket
- 2L sump gasket
- 1.8 8v Front main seal
- 2L Rear main seal
- 100mm driveshafts (or 90mm flanges... whatever I need to run 5speed after removing the 4speed)

Here's what I already have...

2L block (ADY)
1.8 8v head (PB)
5speed linkages (should I also of grabbed the long shaft that runs under the car to the gearstick!?)
2L dizzy to take cog from
1.8 8v mechanical dizzy for vac advance (running carbs)
1.8 8v Alternator (Can I use the 2L one instead?)

am I missing something? I feel like I haven't listed something...

It's going to be an adventure.. to say the least

P.S - I've read that the ADY won't cause my extractors/exhaust to hit the steering rack... any insight from the veterans? If it will, where the holy hell do I get the adapter?

[sports racer]

Since you already have the 2.0 block measure the height from the sump (where it bolts to the block) to the top of the block. Now do the same thing with your existing motor. Is it the same? Good, no need for modifying the exhaust because it will sit in exactly the same space it currently occupies.

2.0 alternator will be more modern so run that one. It will be a better fit on the 2.0 block too.

You don't need another long shaft from the gearbox to the linkages.

Why aren't you using the 2.0 dizzy?

Why do you need a 2L Crank case blanking plate and freeze plug?

Have a look at your existing 1.8 block. The 2.0 is going to replace it so see what hangs off the 1.8 that the 2.0 needs to duplicate. If it's already a part of the 2.0 and can be connected to the existing wiring and plumbing then use the 2.0 stuff.

Don't forget, you won't get a big increase in horse power but the torque is much better and it's a great base for doing more work later (cam, hot head, EFI etc).

Cheers

Paul

[GeorgeMK1]

The 2e blocks (I'm assuming is what you're using) only came in efi Paul, that's why he can't use that dizzy.

Also don't forget you have to shave the head and block.

[Mk1DUB]

Shave meaning remove the gasket crap? Or do I actually need to grind something down???? didn't read anything about having to do any "shaving".

@sports racer - yeah, I'm staying carbed so need the mk2 distributor with vac advance. I'll use the 2.0 alt thanks. The blanking plate is used in every guide I've found, except where people plumb the breather back into the valve cover breather. But it looks gross and just adds **** to the engine bay that isn't needed.

Thanks lads!!

[Neilmk1gti]

The 2e blocks (I'm assuming is what you're using) only came in efi Paul, that's why he can't use that dizzy.

Also don't forget you have to shave the head and block.

MK1DUB - I pressume he means having an engine or machine shop skim the block and head to ensure they are flat and not warped. Dont be fooled this is important and dont try to cheat and use a flat edge and look with your eyes.

The machining of the block and head are done to thousands of a mm so you cannot really see with the naked eye.

[Mk1DUB]

Oh ok, thanks for that. I'm suprised that NO ONE has mentioned that in any of the 20+ build threads/guides I've read with the 2L/1.8L conversion.

Any idea how much this might cost? Not much I assume since I can just drop the block and head off, both already apart, and just get them to do the machining...

[Mk1DUB]

So I just read this on another forum, and was wondering if someone could shed some light on this...

the 2E has only a dizzy, while the ADY has a 60-2 crank angle sensor already fitted as stock (60-2 wheel fitted to crank and sensor fitted to the block under the dizzy)

Am I to assume that this is a knock sensor? Should I be using the ADY dizzy with the cables disconnected or sticking with the mk2 dizzy and using vac advance for timing with the carby?

Cheers.

Edit.. oh wait, the sensor would do nothing because I have no ecu.. right? Vac advance still required for carbs... yeah?

[GeorgeMK1]

It has to be shaved. Parts of the motor get heated and tend to wrap, even if it's .0003mm. If you take a head of a block, it is highly recommended that both head and block being mated together have to be machined. And by machined I mean taking it to the proffesionals. Then you need a new head gasket, and new head bolts. Head bolts are a one off use only, as they are stretch bolts effectively.

Do a bit more research dude, as you'll miss a few steps with this build and won't be as reliable as you'd hope. Ps I think a cost for a shaved block or head from memory was ~~$400? Not sure if it's gone up or down

[Mk1DUB]

ahhhh awesome, thanks George!!

I'm REALLY surprised that this was never mentioned in any of the guides. But I trust that it's the sensible thing to do, head gaskets and the related issues that evolve from having a bad seal, can seriously ruin your day... and your motor.

I did know about the gasket (use the 2L for the oil return to fit, use the newer style metal one for durability) and the head bolts.

From what I can tell, shaving the block/head is the only thing that I wasn't aware of, which DRASTICALLY changes the cost effectiveness of this build. I've not purchased anything yet as I wanted to line it all up so I knew what I was diving in to. I'll ring around and find out prices for the shaving, and see if I can find someone local that can do it at an affordable price.

I also intend to replace the engine mounts while they're easily accessible, but I don't have a press. Any advice on how to do this? Otherwise, I can just take them to a shop to get them pressed in I suppose.

p.s. George - if it's going to be $400 for shaving, I won't go ahead with it.. that'll put the total at about $800-$900, and that's with some very cheap parts being sourced. In which case, I'll take your ADY. But I'll keep you posted either way mate. thanks yet again.

[Peter Jones]

There's no need to machine the head or block if both surfaces are clean and straight.

[Neilmk1gti]

There's no need to machine the head or block if both surfaces are clean and straight.

True, but its best to have a machine shop check it...unless you have all the equipment

[sports racer]

A metal ruler across the face will tell you if there is serious warpage otherwise the head gasket will compensate for any irregularities, especially something as small as .0003mm. I've never had any block or head shaved when I've switching heads.

That's why you've never heard it mentioned in those 20+ build threads you've read. It's overkill.

[Notso Swift]

Agree, just buy a fine oil stone for $10 ( most are double sided any way) and run over the full surface in a diagonal motion in all directions and you will see straight away if the surfaces have any high or low points. Just use full smooth strokes.
If they are not flat you may be able to return/ swap if you bought from a wrecker

[ericcs]

if you have a piece of flat glass, lay the head on and check to see if it rocks. if it doesn't, you'll be pretty safe!

[GeorgeMK1]

Whereas I'd agree, that sometimes it's not necessary, my "clean and straight" could be different for someone else. Take it to a proffesional let them them tell you if it needs or doesn't need to be shaved. Small price to pay for doing it the right way