'81 U.S Rabbit

[Rich]

It is fuel injected, it originally had a 1.6i engine, but the head had gone and I got a 1.8i put in it.

The one above was the one I held for about all of a month lol then moved for the rocco. Was a mint car who ended up getting it? I sent it to qld?

I bought this of a girl who bought it in October last year, probably of the person you sold it to Dom. The radiator is still leaking and I think she cooked the engine, so I put an 1800 in it. Also the brakes weren't that great so they have been fixed too. and the speedo and tacho still don't work! Apart from that, it looks pretty much the same as when you had it!

[GeorgeMK1]

It is fuel injected, it originally had a 1.6i engine, but the head had gone and I got a 1.8i put in it.

Thanks for the insight mate, when was this done? As it now has a 1.6 carb and it feels like it's dying. Small world

Edit. Or were you talking about the other cabby that was mentioned?

[GeorgeMK1]

Bit of an update, it's been raining stupidly with very strong winds so hard for me to take pics inside my little garage. I've purchased another cab for parts (late model) and have used it's entire interior as it's much better, however kept my brown seats. Interior is finally sorted and looking fantastic, pics to come. Also have added the late model booster and m/c, and will most likely throw in the two sway bars.

Now strangely, while swapping over the brake booster, something must have happened but the car won't start anymore. I've narrowed it down to no spark. Re traced all my steps and I haven't touched any wires to affect anything. The coil is receiving no + at all! and seams to have been wired dodgy. Where does the + go to! straight to the ignition?

This is a two part question for some more experienced members - I could feel the little engine was starting to die when driving last week, and I have a clue it used to be a kjet system in it prior (now carb). Should I re convert it back to kjet? My wreck I bought is kjet. A few things missing such as ecu but can be sorted. Is it worth it? Or should I just slap my spare adz cordoba engine in and leave it as a straight swap?

Ps coilovers have been purchased, and club reg this week! Excited

[Big Yellow]

how crap has the weather been! so unmotivated to work on the car!

at least you're making progress

what coilovers did you get?

[sports racer]

+ usually goes to the ignition unless someone did some really dodgy wiring. Make sure it goes to a terminal that only has power when the key is turned otherwise you'll have lots of trouble turning it off. Just don't ask me how I know.

The ADZ is rated at 66kw standard so the only reason you'd fit this motor is to replace a sick one or upgrade from 1.6 to 1.8. K-jet won't turn the car into something special, fuel injection just helps economy and allows you to run a slightly wilder cam without getting "lumpy". Plus there's a lot bits more to go wrong - looks good though.

Cheers

Paul

[GeorgeMK1]

So, how do you know Paul? Hahaha.

Thanks mate, I figured there is a lot more to go wrong with kjet and don't think I can be bothered with the hassle. I will just let the engine die, and see what to do then. I have installed an electric dizzie with module last night and got spark again (electrocuted the **** out of myself), but for some reason now there's no petrol coming through. I thought the car (by the looks of it) has a vscuum pump, but now I seek wires going to the back which could suggest an elec fuel pump too, so have to sort that out also!

On a good note, the car is finally club reg'd!

[sports racer]

Congrats on the rego, daily driver now?

I used to drive a sports car with the roof down in Canberra in the middle of winter as my daily so no excuse for you to even need a roof.

[GeorgeMK1]

Hahaha I'm done with daily driving mk1s mate, my bicycle is more reliable but no, I've only got Sundays off, so it will be my Sunday driver!

If you can do it, I can do it too Paul, the tops coming down!!

[Big Yellow]

We need to go for a cruise!

[GeorgeMK1]

We need to go for a cruise!

Oh we will dude!

My good pal Peter came round for some diagnosis, we checked over everything, turns out when I swapped over the troubled dizzy with the new one, I may have put the leads on the wrong way! (I'm generally pretty switched on haha). But we sorted it out and it fired up straight away. Changed the oil and oil filter, will also be changing coolant tonight. After driving around for. 10 minutes the oil light starts to buzz, not sure what's going on.

Anyway coilovers will be here soon, and should be nice and low. Interior is finally fully sorted with new cluster and working rev gauge etc. stoked!

[Big Yellow]

nice one!!

hopefully i can get more work done to mine. haven't had any time!

[sports racer]

After driving around for. 10 minutes the oil light starts to buzz, not sure what's going on.

I've never heard a light buzz but this problem you really need to check out.

With a healthy engine the tolerences withing the engine are good and tight so the oil pump can maintain pressure throughout the whole engine. On an old engine the gaps between all the moving parts gets bigger so more oil leaks out. By the time the oil gets to the top of the engine there's not enough to lubricate properly and things start to melt together.

When the oil gets hot it thins out, making it easier to leak out of bearings. This might be why the light comes on after 10 minutes.

Get it checked.

It might be a good idea to use thicker oil.

[GeorgeMK1]

We did a comp test and it came in at roughly 150 psi if I remember. Seams healthy I changed the oil to 10/40 and will try this. Might have to maybe go thicker, thanks Paul didn't think of that!

And hahaha you got me there mate, lights don't buzz, but something was!

Since the car was from U.S originally and after some erase arch I believe actually came from California, I thought this would be a nice touch when I attend some shows and what not! Hehe

[Petska84]

Oh we will dude!

My good pal Peter came round for some diagnosis, we checked over everything, turns out when I swapped over the troubled dizzy with the new one, I may have put the leads on the wrong way! (I'm generally pretty switched on haha). But we sorted it out and it fired up straight away. Changed the oil and oil filter, will also be changing coolant tonight. After driving around for. 10 minutes the oil light starts to buzz, not sure what's going on.

Anyway coilovers will be here soon, and should be nice and low. Interior is finally fully sorted with new cluster and working rev gauge etc. stoked!

I've never heard a light buzz but this problem you really need to check out.

With a healthy engine the tolerences withing the engine are good and tight so the oil pump can maintain pressure throughout the whole engine. On an old engine the gaps between all the moving parts gets bigger so more oil leaks out. By the time the oil gets to the top of the engine there's not enough to lubricate properly and things start to melt together.

When the oil gets hot it thins out, making it easier to leak out of bearings. This might be why the light comes on after 10 minutes.

Get it checked.

It might be a good idea to use thicker oil.

That buzzing must be a warning indicator, prob factory fitted or aftermarket when the light goes on. Easy to do.

I've owned a few rotary's in the past and from factory they where fitted with that same kinda thing but on the rev tacho, when the motor spun in the red zone on the gauge the buzz would sound.

[Petska84]

If the oil psi is still not high enough after the oil change might be a good idea to look at the oil pump George.
Good idea to keep that JH for a little longer mate.