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I thought I should update this thread now that I have completed the 5 speed swap. I have taken it for a good blat on the back roads. It is quite a nice match to the little 1600. I know close ratio is meant to be the rage, but it felt great and was a good compromise. A few issues still to resolve:
1) I have a really (I mean REALLY) noisy reverse gear. All forward gears are perfect, but reverse sounds like a bag of bolts. There was no metal in the oil I drained, so either someone has drained it previously, or the noise is a bad bearing. I will just deal with it until I do the engine swap. Then I will either swap to a new gearbox or pull it apart and swap the reverse idler (if it is that).
2) The speedo is over-reading. I need to do a run with my iphone speedo on, but I would guess 10-15%. I looked up the final drive and it should be 3.67 which matches the ‘red’ gear. I will need to count the teeth on the red gear I have and make sure it is 15T. I may end up having to mix and match until I get the right one.
3) The front mount is still ‘skewed’. I have read this has happened to a couple of others and that it can be solved by going to the larger drivers side mount. I will do this when I swap ion a new motor. I would do it now, but the 1.6 needs the alternator support that is on the older, smaller engine mount.
A few things to document for posterity:
When you do the swap you need the correct shift lever on the gearbox. I found that neither the mk3 5 speed lever nor the mk1 4 speed lever worked for me (may work for others). There may be some cases where it works, but don’t believe that it is right until you can get it to work.
The shift gate under the gearstick is different from a 4 speed to a 5 speed. Apparently you can get it to work with a 4 speed if everything is aligned perfectly, but, luckily, I picked up a 5 speed gate at the wreckers. Here is a spot the difference photo for those who are looking to modify their 4 speed gate (4 speed is 38mm, 5 speed is 30mm). I think you could cut back the 4 speed gate and just fold up a reverse stop using vise grips.
There is a slight difference in the later front mount ‘cup’. The holes are bigger and allow more adjustment.
At the beginning of the month I completed an 8 week panel restoration course at Docklands TAFE. My goal was to pick up a couple of tips for repairing panels and maybe actually repair a couple of parts on my car. It turned out that another vw watercooler had the same idea.
Anyway, after a few weeks of the basics, like beating out a hubcap, oxy and mig welding, we got to start bringing our own panels in.......
First up was my bonnet which had two little holes by the washer jet. After making the hole bigger myself, the instructor took over and welded them up. Ground down and painted, it looks spot on. No photos as it was done in a single session
Next was a part I had been dreading. Just on the boot lip there were 2 sections that were like Swiss cheese. I was allowed to bring my car into the class. We cut out the sections, folded up new metal and then it was welded in. I've just finished grinding it and painting it. Pretty pleased with how it came out
Looking good. Pretty cool how they allow to bring your car in. Out of curiosity are you doing this course for work reasons, or just for personal experience gains?
Wow, it's been a while......just finished a house renovation, so can finally get back to the car.
There's two jobs I've been saving up parts for. The first is an interior update.
I bought a TMI seat upholstery kit earlier this year. I've started fitting the covers over the past week.
I finished the rear bench and the backs of the front seats. Unfortunately, the lower front seat is wrong, so I've had to order the correct one which will take 2 weeks to arrive.
With the arrival of son number 2 (Hamish), progress has been slow.
I have upgraded to a Weber 32/36 which had made the car a lot more lively
I also made a bracket to attach the fire extinguisher. I didn't want to drill holes in the floor so came up with this:
Finally........I picked up a 2L 8v. It is an AGG with a nicely worked Mk2 40mm valve head. I will be working this one up slowly, along with a close ratio ACD gear box I sourced. Final goal is to fit the bargain DHLA45s I scored.
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