DUBSTAR'S PROJECT - Weiss Hase - 1976 Golf LS

[dubstar]

Can someone tell me if 1976 Australian Golfs have a special front strut mount or will the later mk1 mounts work too? Also, can yiu drill out the ball joint rivets and replace them with the later bolt in type?

[Peter Jones]

Yep the later strut mounts just bolt in.

All the MK1s left the factory with riveted ball joints, just drill them out and bolt in new ones.

Most of the new balls joints come with new bolts, typically 7mm.

[dubstar]

Long time overdue for an update.

I did all the little things for the RWC and got 'Andy' on the road for DoVW. Since then it has been a busy time at home with painting/reno, but I managed some work over the last week.....


The dash that came with the car was completely fcuked. I managed to get a mint, plastic dash from the homeland and so set about fitting it.....

I didn't really find any full instructions on removing an early mk1 dash, lots on removing the instrument cluster, so heres a quick help guide:

1) remove instrument cluster and steering wheel as per Haynes/Bentley.

2) remove the 2 screws at each end underneath the dash (4 screws in total)

3) remove the 3 screws from the centre console and slide the console out of the way (no need to remove the whole thing)

4) This gives you acess to the centre screw that is holding the 2 sections of the heater together. Remove this screw.

6) Remove any wire clips/ties that may be holding the loom to the dash

5) Now just give the dash a damn good tug backwards and it should come free.

Location of 5 screws and picture of fcuked dash...anyone need it?



When I installed the new dash I also took the opportunity to update the stereo. I wanted something with a slight retroi feel to it, so I went with the Retrosound Model One "Becker" style unit. Pictures....








The only problem is that there is only 1 4x6 speaker in the centre of the dash and I don't want to hack up the car to fit any others. I found a simple wiring diagram (see below) that apparently can convert stereo into mono, however I have found that it distorts the sound and also really limits the volume. Can any of the electronics experts here tell me another way to get around this?

If I read the schematic correctly, I put resistors on all 4 wires (R+, R-, L+, L-) and then 1 big one between them. I have used std type resistors rated at 1W.

Schematic:


My wiring:

[greasykitchen]

Looks awesome! The old dash really was knackered. I could never find a dash mat that would stay in place without having to add ugly velcro. The old radio was a bit warped as well, though I did kind of enjoy listening to AM radio in the car.

What's next for Andy?

[XXX-1.8T]

what did you do with the old stereo?

Do you want to sell it?

Nice MK1 btw!

[dubstar]

Next on the list is 1 of 3 things:

1) Get the parts where I have treated rust resprayed. I just want to do some patches, not a full respray.

2) Upgrade the brakes, suspension and wheels/tyres. I have almost all the parts already.

3) Redo the interior. I have new door cards and will order a new carpet set. But I am really struggling to find some nice replacement seats. I want some Mk2 seats/Mk1 Cabby seats/Recaros, but they have to be nice condition.

The stereo is not for sale sorry as I want to keep original parts with the car.

[dubstar]

I haven't had much time to do anything recently, but managed to fit in a few hours to correct the brake light set-up that was in Andy when I got him.

The set-up looked like this:








However, what is really funny, is that the wires were connected in such a way that this switch did nothing! The car was running off the original hydraulic brake light switches that are connected at the master cylinder. I guess someone put it tiogether, figured the brake lights still worked and left it at that?!?!?

Anyway, I plan on running a later master cylinder without the hydraulic switches and, since I went ahead and purchased a replacement brake light switch anyway, I thought I might as well correct the issue now.

I actually found a motorbike universal brake light switch that would work much better in the Mk1. Here's a pic:





You can buy them from ebay here. It is made by K&S and has a part number 12-0001

The Mk1 pedal cluster is set up perfectly for this switch. All you need to do is drill a 10/12mm hole (mine was already there for the previous switch), bend the activating wire so that it can loop through the existing hole in the pedal and Roberts your Mothers Brother.







Now on to the wiring.

Whoever set up the previous switch had connected one wire to ground and one wire to the red/yellow in the pic below. This doesn't work (at least on my car). For the switch to work it needs to switch between the red/yellow and pink/black wire. I believe the blue/brown wire is part of the low pressure warning system.



For the moment I have the hydraulic switch hooked up and the pedal switch running as a parallel 'back-up'.

And here's the 'engineering' of the old switch.....

[dubstar]

DUBSTAR'S PROJECT - Weiß Hase - 1976 Golf LS

Started the big brake and suspension refresh.

Here's the majority of parts to go in.





Front:
- girling 54 calipers, rebuilt
- early Audi caliper carriers. These allow 256mm brakes to bolt straight on.
- DBA slotted rotors
- EBC Greenstuff pads
- Goodridge hoses
- prothane and Superpro bushes (pain in th arse to buy all the different swaybar bushes)
- new control arms and ball joints
- x-brace from vert.
- 17mm swaybar

Rear
- 200mm Mk3 drums with new cylinders
- Prothane bushes
- Goodridge hoses
- 20mm swaybar

Brake booster
- 22mm m/cyl
- 9inch booster

Wheels will be a surprise...nothing too exciting.

Over the past few days I have done the front suspension and brakes. Brakes all installed. Shiny new suspnsion parts. All bushes lubed up, 'cause noone likes squeaky bush.









And I've also removed the booster....

[Stiggy_21]

where did u get the wishbone/ARB rear mount bracket from? or was it already on the car?

[GeorgeMK1]

Absolutely loving it mate! Really good progress and all the right mods, keep it up

[dubstar]

DUBSTAR'S PROJECT - Weiß Hase - 1976 Golf LS

Thanks. They came with the swaybar. I actually have another front swaybar (including all mounts and bushes) that I will be selling. Shoot us a PM if interested.

[dubstar]

DUBSTAR'S PROJECT - Weiß Hase - 1976 Golf LS

I got the booster and master cylinder all sorted. It's amazing how much you can get done if you don't watch TV for a few days.

I modified a mk3 booster to work as per this link:

http://www.vwwatercooled.com/forums/f20/how-mod-late-booster-mk1-11689.html

The lines have been bent a bit by some previous owner, they now clear everything, but when the engine swap happens i'll bend up some new ones.

[Stiggy_21]

how much better is it!!!

great job so far

[sports racer]

What's she like to drive now?

[greasykitchen]

Great work. Looks slightly odd to see my old car in its new life, but all for the better. I bet it will actually stop now.

Re the brake light switch and wiring - the switch pre-dates my ownership, but it more or less worked so I left it. Some of the wiring - part of an emergency, night time bodge job done in the dark to get me home when I realised I had no brake lights. My dad and brother wired it up to the battery as a stop-gap. Was going to fix it, but it worked and I never got around to it.

Again, nice to see the old thing getting the love and attention it deserves.

Cheers