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Email Notifications Failing (mostly Telstra)
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Welcome to the new look VWWatercooled
After much work and little sleep there is a new version of the forums running on more powerful and recent hardware as well as an upgraded software platform.
Things are mostly the same, but some things are a little different. We will be learning together, so please post questions (and answers if you've worked things out) in the help thread.
Things are mostly the same, but some things are a little different. We will be learning together, so please post questions (and answers if you've worked things out) in the help thread.
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EGR should we all be more concerned
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Originally posted by Johnnojack View PostCorrect kaanage, no DPF in our 2005 1.9 TDI
"And ALL current diesels suffer with EGR / oil blowby buildup, stalling and burning out EGR motors, including Volvo, had a long chat with a disheartened XC70 bloke last week."
It's like, if you want to have a diesel here is a big anchor, you have to tow it around and maintain it. Yet the dealers will say "what anchor".
False economy
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Hi guys so for some reason nearly all if the Egr threads end in 2016. I have a passat B6 with BMR 125kw.
So anyway after installing the rcd 330, noticed a bit of hesitancy between the 1800 to 2800 range. Had a look at the Egr after removing the Turbo inlet at the front and as usual, lots of sludge there. Looked at a few videos and on the info here have got an M10 splice key to open the intake manifold and the egr circulation point and the egr valve. Lots of degreaser on hand and gloves. Will start tomorrow. Wish me luck.
Edit sorry M10 spline not spliceLast edited by sn809; 13-05-2020, 08:23 AM.
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Originally posted by sn809 View PostHi guys so for some reason nearly all if the Egr threads end in 2016. I have a passat B6 with BMR 125kw.
So anyway after installing the rcd 330, noticed a bit of hesitancy between the 1800 to 2800 range. Had a look at the Egr after removing the Turbo inlet at the front and as usual, lots of sludge there. Looked at a few videos and on the info here have got an M10 splice key to open the intake manifold and the egr circulation point and the egr valve. Lots of degreaser on hand and gloves. Will start tomorrow. Wish me luck.
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It sure as hell is. Timed it well so have plenty of sup cheap degreaser in hand byt nothing really cuts it like the Liqui Moly engine intake decarb. The extended nozzle is really handy.
So I got everything open and am in the process of cleaning, but what abt the soot in the exhaust gas cause all that will just go right back in.
Also what about the engine block. There is crud on the engine side too. I am going to do an oil change later, is there something I can use to clean that up??
Any help will ve appreciated
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Try oven cleaner. Much better than petrol or degreaser.
If it's a ferrous metal then standard oven cleaner works wonders. As it is caustic based it will eat alloy.
Non-Odour Mr Muscle (there are 2 types) isn't caustic based and is fine with alloy.
Can't help with those specific items as I'm not sure where those holes lead to.carandimage The place where Off-Topic is On-Topic
I used to think I was anal-retentive until I started getting involved in car forums
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I bought these brushes which made the job easier and faster. Soak the brushes in some degreaser/petrol/LiquiMoly Debarb etc you are using to break down the crud and go for it.
The ones that attach to your drill are very handy (hopefully you have enough room to fit a drill in there) for cleaning out the intake ports.
Bear in mind the brushes will basically be ready to throw in the bin when you are finished.
ToolPRO Tube With Hex Shaft Brush Set - 6 Piece | Supercheap Auto
Cleaning Brush Set 3 Pc. Nylon, Brass and Steel - 301003 | Supercheap Auto
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Originally posted by brad View PostTry oven cleaner. Much better than petrol or degreaser.
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Thanks guys, after reading up on the TDi forums, I am not feeling so confident about the inlet ports on the cylinder head. Should I just leave them be?
@lucas Are the Hex brushes for the engine inlet ports? How do I asses which valves as closed without taking off the cover
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Hi, could someone please tell me if the butterfly valve in the intake manifold are normally open or closed, thanks.
So car is starting up easier than before, but once I switch engine off, the manifold runner butterfly actuator makes a pop sound and comes back in place.
When I had cleaned up the manifold, two of the grommets keeping the butterfly valve strip in place were free and there seemed to be no way of fixing them. I just slotted them in, made sure there was no significant resistance and tightened the manifold.
Now I am concerned that I may have put in the butterfly rod wrongly. So currently the off position the valves are open, which doesnt make sense to me,
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Car is running fine with good power output, the vibration in engine at low RPM has gone, engine sounds a bit more rattly on cold start up though. RPM seems slightly higher between 7-8 where as previously it was between 6-7.
No EML or other lights. Have done a good 40 minutes mixed driving.
Have fitted the Provent I had lying around as well, so more soot but less oil going in, need to get silicone tubing for it. Currently using Greg Roles idea of hose pipe from last when I was going to put it in.
Parts that I used were
Intake manifold gasket 03G-129-717-C
Gasket between Intake manifold and EGR 03G131547C
Gasket between EGR and Exhaust return pipe 069131547D
O ring seal b/w Anti shudder and EGRN90978701
Here is hoping I get to at least 250K with this car
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2025 - Below Forum
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