Discover Media retrofit

[SandSeeker]

Also some of the terminals change size, some wires are too short to repin etc.
It's about an 8 hour job in a very unergonomic location.
Had there been an easier solution available for me at the time I would not have done it.
There is demand for the adapter and bear in mind it's one guy doing it in his spare time.
My advice would be wait until you can get one from him, or get yourself ready for a lot of discomfort and potentially a car that won't work while you get through the BCM upgrade.

Hi kamold, thanks for your answer.

You are completely right, that's why my idea was to create an adapter, outside of the car in a better and comfortable situation. Once is Done, you only have to go to the car and connect the adapter between the original car connectors and the new BCM. But I'm not sure if this is possible or if there is enough information to be able to do it.

Thanks!

[SandSeeker]

The BCM swap is a very big job, and not for the faint of heart, it evolves a lot of wiring, depinning and crimping, and you have the safety risk that if you did anything wrong, your lights might stop working.

There are a few build logs with the CECM to BCM on the Passat, this would be similar if you want to gage the amount of work.

The BCM is responsible for the terminal 58d (panel dimming circuit) this is also a CAN value that is broadcasted. I am unsure if the CECM broadcasts this on a different ID or at all

Hi MIG,

Thanks again. Well, my idea was the following:

To buy another control unit like mine, just only to get the connector where to connect the original connectors from the car. In the other side of this connector, to weld all the necessary wires and connect it to the original new connectors of the new BCM. Like a Harness adapter, something like this.

If there is any Schema where I could find every wire position and pinout, where should be connected every wire, then, even if this is a big work to prepare the Harness, it would be no problem for me, I use to weld and create some diagnosis or tools for old cars, so the amount of work is no problem for me.

The only concern I have is that probably this adaptation needs something else than just creating a Harness. Probably there would be some coding, or probably I can use same number coding from CECM to paste it to the new BCM.

If you think that this is possible, or there is enough information, pinouts, etc, over the internet, or someone can guide me to where I could find this information, then that would be great!!!

Of course, for me, the quick and easy way to solve it would be the HBA/Runlock/Automatic start/Brightness PCB module, but I had no luck. Second option I'm going to try is the one from Don's post. Finally, if I can not solve it.... then.... lot of work waiting for me ��

Thank you so much!

[SandSeeker]

SandSeeker:hi.

I'm trying to understand the problem here - but I'm not succeeding! I had understood from your first post that the issue was the illumination level of the infotainment screen during daytime ONLY - but somehow the problem seems to have morphed to also include the temp numerals on the HVAC panel.

I'm not sure how the Golf mk6 manages changing cabin light levels - but it's done via a small photo-transistor on the mk7 -which sits between the "8" and "7" numerals on the tacho - like this:

.

The new MIB in this car has mk7-ish style channels - so I suspect that its roots are probably embedded in MQB platform vehicles (I'm guessing).

Anyhow, the way that the mk7 handles illumination levels as the cabin light levels change is via a set of "X-axis" and "Y-axis" adaptation channels that create a set of reference-points on a sort-of graph. Each reference-point determines the illumination level of the thing being controlled when the photo-transistor voltage reaches the specified value. This means that the illumination level of various devices can be altered with changing cabin light levels - by changing the adaptation channel values!

The set-up works like this:

• Each X-value channel defines a 12 x bit A/D (Analogue-to-Digital) conversion of the Photo transistor output voltage
• Each Y-value channel drives a 6 x bit D/A (Digital-to-Analogue) converter output for whatever is being controlled (there are multiple screens/LEDs/Displays that are controlled in this manner on a mk7)

I note that your 5C0035680D module also has 2 x sets of "X/Y" axis adaptation channels that look very similar to the mk7 set-up - but I'm not sure how they operate on a PQ35 platform car.

Anyhow -maybe post-up the current values for the following channels in your new MIB:

Dimming_Ambient_Illumination_Information_Control_U nit-X1
Dimming_Ambient_Illumination_Information_Control_U nit-X2
Dimming_Ambient_Illumination_Information_Control_U nit-X3
Dimming_Ambient_Illumination_Information_Control_U nit-Y1
Dimming_Ambient_Illumination_Information_Control_U nit-Y2
Dimming_Ambient_Illumination_Information_Control_U nit-Y3

Dimming_Illumination_for_Display_Unit-X1
Dimming_Illumination_for_Display_Unit-X2
Dimming_Illumination_for_Display_Unit-X3
Dimming_Illumination_for_Display_Unit-X4
Dimming_Illumination_for_Display_Unit-X5
Dimming_Illumination_for_Display_Unit-X6
Dimming_Illumination_for_Display_Unit-Y1
Dimming_Illumination_for_Display_Unit-Y2
Dimming_Illumination_for_Display_Unit-Y3
Dimming_Illumination_for_Display_Unit-Y4
Dimming_Illumination_for_Display_Unit-Y5
Dimming_Illumination_for_Display_Unit-Y6

Hopefully the channels above act in the same way as on a mk7 and the solution to your display problem is just a coding change (yes, my hunch is a bit of a long-shot, but it's an easy try -so worth considering IMO)

Don

Hi Don,

Thank you so much for your answer. Yes, you understood perfectly my issue. The brightness is always at the same level, it means, during the night, very bright, during the day, very dark.

As you said, I saw something similar when I was looking at the possible options to be coded for the head unit 5C0 035 680 D in the Adaptation's area. I will check it again and try to find out the options you have posted. If I can find it, I will post the stored values I have coded right now.

In the other hand, I have exactly the same sensor you showed in the picture, in my cluster, but, what I'm not sure is, if the brightness is controlled by the exterior light sensor in the front window, or by the Cluster sensor in my case.

Thank you so much. I will continue trying to solve the issue.

[kamold]

Also some of the terminals change size, some wires are too short to repin etc.
It's about an 8 hour job in a very unergonomic location.
Had there been an easier solution available for me at the time I would not have done it.
There is demand for the adapter and bear in mind it's one guy doing it in his spare time.
My advice would be wait until you can get one from him, or get yourself ready for a lot of discomfort and potentially a car that won't work while you get through the BCM upgrade.

[MIG]

Hi again MIG

I have tried to contact to the owner of the project by e-mail to be able to buy this PCB in order to correct and fix my issues, but I have not received any answer from the developer of the HBA/Runlock/Automatic start/Brightness PCB module. So I'm still not being able to solve the problem.

Another option I was thinking about, is to try to find out the pinout of my CECM and also the pinout of the correct needed BCM, to be able to create a converter Harness in order to use a newer BCM Module.

am I right or am I missing something else? any advice about how could I solve this issue?

Thank you very much!

The BCM swap is a very big job, and not for the faint of heart, it evolves a lot of wiring, depinning and crimping, and you have the safety risk that if you did anything wrong, your lights might stop working.

There are a few build logs with the CECM to BCM on the Passat, this would be similar if you want to gage the amount of work.

The BCM is responsible for the terminal 58d (panel dimming circuit) this is also a CAN value that is broadcasted. I am unsure if the CECM broadcasts this on a different ID or at all

[MIG]

thanks for the inputs and pointers.

i will see which route i'm gonna be taking. i think the sub in teh spare tire is a NO GO for me as the golf R has a spare tire that sits in the boot upside down (convex) so i cant' put a sub in the spare tire.

i may go the route of getting an enclosure with a sub in it an put in the boot on the one side and mount the amp somewhere in the boot area as well.

so do i need a line processor like L2Ci to feed the said amp for the SUBWOOFER?? or running the wires from the stock dynaudio amp(you mentioned the output of the 2 front speakers from the stock dynaudio amp); is there a reason why the 2 front ones and NOT the 2 rear speakers.

also how would i find/know which 4 wires out of the stock dynaudio amp are the 2 front speakers?? can i find a schematic diagram somewhere?

thanks again.

That L2Ci creates the virtual subwoofer channel, that's one way of creating it, other amps can have that feature built in, or you can go full DSP.

I used the two front speaker feeds, accessible under the passenger seat, (drivers seat in LHD) as that was the easiest place to run them from. also picked the front as the drivers up front are the bass speakers in the stock setup, I wanted as much signal as possible for the virtual subwoofer channel to use.

[DV52]

SandSeeker:hi.

I'm trying to understand the problem here - but I'm not succeeding! I had understood from your first post that the issue was the illumination level of the infotainment screen during daytime ONLY - but somehow the problem seems to have morphed to also include the temp numerals on the HVAC panel.

I'm not sure how the Golf mk6 manages changing cabin light levels - but it's done via a small photo-transistor on the mk7 -which sits between the "8" and "7" numerals on the tacho - like this:

.

The new MIB in this car has mk7-ish style channels - so I suspect that its roots are probably embedded in MQB platform vehicles (I'm guessing).

Anyhow, the way that the mk7 handles illumination levels as the cabin light levels change is via a set of "X-axis" and "Y-axis" adaptation channels that create a set of reference-points on a sort-of graph. Each reference-point determines the illumination level of the thing being controlled when the photo-transistor voltage reaches the specified value. This means that the illumination level of various devices can be altered with changing cabin light levels - by changing the adaptation channel values!

The set-up works like this:

• Each X-value channel defines a 12 x bit A/D (Analogue-to-Digital) conversion of the Photo transistor output voltage
• Each Y-value channel drives a 6 x bit D/A (Digital-to-Analogue) converter output for whatever is being controlled (there are multiple screens/LEDs/Displays that are controlled in this manner on a mk7)

I note that your 5C0035680D module also has 2 x sets of "X/Y" axis adaptation channels that look very similar to the mk7 set-up - but I'm not sure how they operate on a PQ35 platform car.

Anyhow -maybe post-up the current values for the following channels in your new MIB:

Dimming_Ambient_Illumination_Information_Control_U nit-X1
Dimming_Ambient_Illumination_Information_Control_U nit-X2
Dimming_Ambient_Illumination_Information_Control_U nit-X3
Dimming_Ambient_Illumination_Information_Control_U nit-Y1
Dimming_Ambient_Illumination_Information_Control_U nit-Y2
Dimming_Ambient_Illumination_Information_Control_U nit-Y3

Dimming_Illumination_for_Display_Unit-X1
Dimming_Illumination_for_Display_Unit-X2
Dimming_Illumination_for_Display_Unit-X3
Dimming_Illumination_for_Display_Unit-X4
Dimming_Illumination_for_Display_Unit-X5
Dimming_Illumination_for_Display_Unit-X6
Dimming_Illumination_for_Display_Unit-Y1
Dimming_Illumination_for_Display_Unit-Y2
Dimming_Illumination_for_Display_Unit-Y3
Dimming_Illumination_for_Display_Unit-Y4
Dimming_Illumination_for_Display_Unit-Y5
Dimming_Illumination_for_Display_Unit-Y6

Hopefully the channels above act in the same way as on a mk7 and the solution to your display problem is just a coding change (yes, my hunch is a bit of a long-shot, but it's an easy try -so worth considering IMO)

Don

[SandSeeker]

Hi again MIG

I have tried to contact to the owner of the project by e-mail to be able to buy this PCB in order to correct and fix my issues, but I have not received any answer from the developer of the HBA/Runlock/Automatic start/Brightness PCB module. So I'm still not being able to solve the problem.

Another option I was thinking about, is to try to find out the pinout of my CECM and also the pinout of the correct needed BCM, to be able to create a converter Harness in order to use a newer BCM Module.

am I right or am I missing something else? any advice about how could I solve this issue?

Thank you very much!

[SandSeeker]

Hi @MIG

First of all, thank you so much for your quick reply. As you said, I have realized that the Climatronic panel does not show the correct brightness in the two small screens showing the temperature number. I understand this is caused by the same issue.

Also, I have seen the project about the HBA/Runlock/Automatic start/Brightness PCB module. Is this the only way to solve my issue? or there is any other option like swapping the unit 09 Cent. Elect. for another one a bit newer? And also, how could I get this project done to be able to weld it directly to my CECM? I'm new about it.

About setting the brightness manually, you are right, during the night would be too bright. I prefer to make it work as it should.

However, I have previously retrofitted other components of my car without any issue, like the steering wheel module to the 1K0 953 549 CH, the Instrument cluster to the 3D FIS one with reference 1k8 920 885 J, the Climatronic with brightness issue and now the Discover Media with Brightness issue as well.

Thank you so much!!!

[RBmk6R]

The helix in this case is a second amp to the dynaudio one, it creates a virtual subwoofer channel by using the two front speaker inputs.

Many mono channel amps have this as a feature, but look for high level inputs and auto power on. the (Helix D ONE) is the one I am using.

In terms of wiring, four wires, Left and Right (+ -) need to be ran from the stock amp, to the location of the new amp (In my case the behind right side pocket in the boot)

And a new fused wire from the battery to the amp, ground can be ran from a close ground point.

Check out the pics i took here https://www.vwwatercooled.com/forums...ml#post1340609

thanks for the inputs and pointers.

i will see which route i'm gonna be taking. i think the sub in teh spare tire is a NO GO for me as the golf R has a spare tire that sits in the boot upside down (convex) so i cant' put a sub in the spare tire.

i may go the route of getting an enclosure with a sub in it an put in the boot on the one side and mount the amp somewhere in the boot area as well.

so do i need a line processor like L2Ci to feed the said amp for the SUBWOOFER?? or running the wires from the stock dynaudio amp(you mentioned the output of the 2 front speakers from the stock dynaudio amp); is there a reason why the 2 front ones and NOT the 2 rear speakers.

also how would i find/know which 4 wires out of the stock dynaudio amp are the 2 front speakers?? can i find a schematic diagram somewhere?

thanks again.

[MIG]

Hi to everybody,

I have been reading this thread for some days, as I did the same Discover Media Retrofit, but I'm experiencing a very annoying issue and I can not find the reason. The thing is about the brightness of the unit. For some reason, brightness is not increasing during the day or decreasing during the night, so I can see perfectly during the night but during the day is almost impossible to see what the screen is showing. I have already selected in the settings menu, the very bright option, but it seems that this is not enough.

Does anyone has experienced something like this? My car is a 2006 Volkswagen Golf GTI. I have updated my gateway and I can select the 5F Address in the Installation List. Could be something about coding?


The number of the 19-Gateway is - 7N0 907 530 AT - J533 Gateway H52 1663
The number of the 5F-Head unit is - 5C0 035 680 D - MU-S-N-ER - H31 0369
The number of the 09-Cent. Elect. is - 3C0 937 049 AJ - Bordnetz-SG - H54 2202
The number of the 08-Auto HVAC is - 35D 907 044 B - Climatronic H03 0303


Thank you so much!

Your issue is caused by the CECM (09) module in your case, Unlike the BCMs in newer cars, does not broadcast the backlight brightness on the CAN ID the DM or Climatronic is looking for.

Check out the project here, Dropbox

The HBA/Runlock/Automatic start/Brightness PCB module add this missing CAN message to allow the newer modules to work correctly.

I think you can also set the brightness manually via the adaptation channels, but this is a fixed value (So might be too bright at night)

[MIG]

hello Mig,

thank you for the reply; my mk6 R already had the dynaudio system and i have the 8 channel amp; but if i were to go the route you went, do i need to upgrade to the 10 channel amp??? or can i use the existing 8 channel one and get a helix sub/amp like you did?

also if i went that route, where would i source a plug and wiring for the said Helix sub/amp...as ones i found on ebay come without.

also would you be kind and let me knwo how you went about doing the wiring?? i'm kind of NOOB when it comes to wiring stuff and/or splicing into existing wires to make it work

thanks again in advance.

The helix in this case is a second amp to the dynaudio one, it creates a virtual subwoofer channel by using the two front speaker inputs.

Many mono channel amps have this as a feature, but look for high level inputs and auto power on. the (Helix D ONE) is the one I am using.

In terms of wiring, four wires, Left and Right (+ -) need to be ran from the stock amp, to the location of the new amp (In my case the behind right side pocket in the boot)

And a new fused wire from the battery to the amp, ground can be ran from a close ground point.

Check out the pics i took here https://www.vwwatercooled.com/forums...ml#post1340609

[SandSeeker]

Hi to everybody,

I have been reading this thread for some days, as I did the same Discover Media Retrofit, but I'm experiencing a very annoying issue and I can not find the reason. The thing is about the brightness of the unit. For some reason, brightness is not increasing during the day or decreasing during the night, so I can see perfectly during the night but during the day is almost impossible to see what the screen is showing. I have already selected in the settings menu, the very bright option, but it seems that this is not enough.

Does anyone has experienced something like this? My car is a 2006 Volkswagen Golf GTI. I have updated my gateway and I can select the 5F Address in the Installation List. Could be something about coding?


The number of the 19-Gateway is - 7N0 907 530 AT - J533 Gateway H52 1663
The number of the 5F-Head unit is - 5C0 035 680 D - MU-S-N-ER - H31 0369
The number of the 09-Cent. Elect. is - 3C0 937 049 AJ - Bordnetz-SG - H54 2202
The number of the 08-Auto HVAC is - 35D 907 044 B - Climatronic H03 0303


Thank you so much!

[RBmk6R]

Yes I added a Helix amp tapped into the high side outputs on my stock Dynaudio amp feeding a 80A035382A (A is 100W x 2, Non A is 40w) fits in the stock 18" wheel in the boot.

Kamold fitted a 5C6035456C and 5N0035591 to his setup, check it out here Kamold's R36

If you don't already have Dynaudio the amp is a good upgrade.

hello Mig,

thank you for the reply; my mk6 R already had the dynaudio system and i have the 8 channel amp; but if i were to go the route you went, do i need to upgrade to the 10 channel amp??? or can i use the existing 8 channel one and get a helix sub/amp like you did?

also if i went that route, where would i source a plug and wiring for the said Helix sub/amp...as ones i found on ebay come without.

also would you be kind and let me knwo how you went about doing the wiring?? i'm kind of NOOB when it comes to wiring stuff and/or splicing into existing wires to make it work

thanks again in advance.

[MIG]

so nobody has added a SUBwoofer to their dyanudio/mib2 headunit??

Yes I added a Helix amp tapped into the high side outputs on my stock Dynaudio amp feeding a 80A035382A (A is 100W x 2, Non A is 40w) fits in the stock 18" wheel in the boot.

Kamold fitted a 5C6035456C and 5N0035591 to his setup, check it out here Kamold's R36

If you don't already have Dynaudio the amp is a good upgrade.