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  • #46
    hey man,

    tought i would come join in on this post.

    Well as for vinyling tips i do know you can heat vinyl up with heat gun to strecth around a fwe places of getting it into the nokes and crannies.
    Audi S4 (2001) - Imola Yellow
    Secret Project

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    • #47
      hey glidn, let me know how it goes with yours (if you will be vinyling)and what to watch out for.

      I am still confused with how to start to be honest, cover than heat or should I use glue and when, before/after heating ?? SO take lots of pic ok Anyone????

      hey good job on the plastic welding too. Looks excellent !
      Last edited by Soundofav6; 17-07-2008, 06:59 PM.

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      • #48
        Vinyl sucks. I try and lay it in the sun for a long time. Haven't played with vinyl in ages now. I used to:

        *Heat the vinyl in sun
        *glue the area and let it go tacky ( so it grabs easier )
        *attach vinyl on the largest flatest area first
        *angle cut and heat edges as you go if vinyl cools
        *stretch well and stapel down if necessary.

        Does anyone know an easier way?
        Bora has gone ;( Custom sub box and beige floor mats to suit for sale.

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        • #49
          Originally posted by Mr ©harisma View Post
          Vinyl sucks. I try and lay it in the sun for a long time. Haven't played with vinyl in ages now. I used to:

          *Heat the vinyl in sun
          *glue the area and let it go tacky ( so it grabs easier )
          *attach vinyl on the largest flatest area first
          *angle cut and heat edges as you go if vinyl cools
          *stretch well and stapel down if necessary.

          Does anyone know an easier way?
          yher youre on the right track, its what most people do

          i tend to find it depends on the type of vynil you are using and if it has any texture in it. if it does you have to plan a little bit more as to where your cuts are, which sections are done first. this therefore means stretching is minimised and therefore the pattern is retained as much as it can. this however can become difficult when complex shapes are being used, meaning you will have to live with a bit of a stretched look or pay to get them vacuum moulded which dispite costing more dollars, gets you a perfect finish.

          you may also like to test out the glue you are using first, i have found that the 3M branded spray adhesive is one of the stronger ones, although it can cause some types of vynil to bubble either instantly or after a few minutes.

          other things to take into consideration...

          * cutting a little extra around edges so that you have more room to work with when stretching - nothing worse then wasting vynil when you realise that it wont fit by half a centremetre, can be a real heartbreaker, trust me, i talk from experience haha

          * heating the vynil section by section with either a heatgun on low or with one of those halogen work lights

          * using a hot glue gun to fasten the covering around edges etc. this is handy if adjustments need to be made as it can usually be pulled off much easier than when stapled. when completed, you can then permanently fasten it with staples or a stronger adhesive (needed as hot glue will soften and give slightly in the warmer months)

          * planning - plan where you are going to start from, although a bit of experience/practice with this sort of thing is needed to spot any possible problems before they become a problem

          hope that helps, i always write too much... lol

          regards, dan
          1999 MK4 GTi 1.8T - Custom Code Stg 1, ECS Stg 1, 14lb Fly, 18" A8's
          ''Jap cars pull the G-Forces... Euro cars pull the G-Strings...''

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