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Interested if anyone has done one on an Octavia hatch, as that doesn't have a handle per se but has the touch button to release the boot.
Al..
The wagon is the same. Not sure if its the same part but if I had to guess I would say its the same.
Someone with ETKA and some spare time could confirm.
2011 Skoda Octavia vRS TDI DSG wagon|Revo Stage 1|Race Blue|Leather|Dynamic Xenons w 6000K|9w7 BT|THA475 Amp+active sub|Whiteline ALK|RVC| 2009 R36 wagon|Biscay Blue|RVC|Tailgate|ECU and DSG tune|LED DRL/Indicators|3D colour cluster|Quad LED tail rings|Climatronics upgrade|Dynaudio retrofit|B7 RLine Flat Steering Wheel|3AA CCM|TPMS Direct|B7 Adaptive Cruise with Front Assist|Discover Media retrofit|PLA 2.0|Lane Assist|BCM retrofit|High Beam Assist|DQ500
The wagon is the same. Not sure if its the same part but if I had to guess I would say its the same.
Someone with ETKA and some spare time could confirm.
Thanks Kamold - I note you said you can use these with the RCD310 (which is what my old man's Skoda has) - anyone done this? Note he already has the OPS. Trying to sort his xmas present...
Al..
Thanks Kamold - I note you said you can use these with the RCD310 (which is what my old man's Skoda has) - anyone done this? Note he already has the OPS. Trying to sort his xmas present...
Al..
I'm almost 100% that the RCD310 doesn't support RVC.
You'll need a head unit that has:
1) a 26 pin connector on the back for RVC input
2) ability for the display to support pictures/images
Almost certain that the RCD310 misses out on both counts as I used to have RCD310 in my Tiguan and it definitely didn't have a 26 pin input for RVC and don't think the display was up to images as it was just a basic monochrome unit.
There is an RNS310 unit (smaller 5" Sat Nav unit), but I don't think these units were ever available in Australia.
Does anybody know of an installer (as you need to cut out the larger boot opening) for a Skoda Octavia wagon who has done the install previously? I'm Sydney based. Happy to pay a reasonable fee as I reckon its a job too big for my DIY skills
Also has anybody managed to code it to work with OPS on screen?
PM me if you know anybody up to the job and reputable
OK. I promised I'd post a photo so took one on the weekend and just got around to loading it up.
The camera just peeks out from under the rear hatch if you're down low.
If you're looking down from above, you can hardly notice that it's even there.
There was no cutting of the boot required. The old boot handle and new handle fit in exactly the same location - except the new one has a small part of the rubber section on the right end taken up with the camera.
I actually find it useful for locating the boot handle. Instead of groping around hunting for the handle if you take a look for the camera and then put your hand directly left you get the boot handle first time every time.
Added bonus and not a feature that you'd see the advertising material.
Sorry to bump an old thread but has anyone with an Octavia installed one of these yet?
I bought one from AliExpress and have run most of the cabling and confirmed the camera works but I haven't stumped up the courage to cut the boot lid to fit the camera yet.
Also I'm not too sure how I will secure the camera since the bolt spacing on the camera doesn't match the factory backing plate.
The other option I'm considering is forget the Tiguan RGB factory style camera and try one of the composite cameras off AliExpress which is a direct fit for the Octavia boot release handle and run a composite to rgb converter.
Funny you should bring this up.
I was about to finally do mine as well.
The other issue I found was that the camera module is too deep for the recessed cutout in the boot. Will require filling with epoxy.
So I am unsure if I want to do that now.
I reckon that CCD and RGB converter is the way to go.
2011 Skoda Octavia vRS TDI DSG wagon|Revo Stage 1|Race Blue|Leather|Dynamic Xenons w 6000K|9w7 BT|THA475 Amp+active sub|Whiteline ALK|RVC| 2009 R36 wagon|Biscay Blue|RVC|Tailgate|ECU and DSG tune|LED DRL/Indicators|3D colour cluster|Quad LED tail rings|Climatronics upgrade|Dynaudio retrofit|B7 RLine Flat Steering Wheel|3AA CCM|TPMS Direct|B7 Adaptive Cruise with Front Assist|Discover Media retrofit|PLA 2.0|Lane Assist|BCM retrofit|High Beam Assist|DQ500
Here are some notes from the installation (I didn't take any pictures, sorry!).
The part of the camera/handle unit that goes inside the car is taller than the factory handle. I had to make a spacer for inside the car so that I could use the bracket from the stock handle to secure it properly. I just used a bit of masonite I had in the shed, only needs to be about 5mm thick.
The camera section on the handle pokes down a fair way. I have slimline number plates without a surround and the camera just touches the numberplate. Keep that in mind if you have a numberplate surround or a larger numberplate.
Lots of the metal clips that hold the plastic boot liner onto the boot lid didn't want to come out when I pulled the liner off. I bought trim clip pliers from ebay and they were perfect for getting them out. Trim Clip Plier | eBay
To get the boot liner back on (I have a liftback so may be different for the wagon) I found it easiest to clip the liner on at the bottom first, then line it up to clip in at the glass then the middle follows from that.
You can't power the camera directly from the reverse light otherwise you'll get an unstable picture when the engine is started (I'd already read about this on briskoda so knew it was a possibility). I bought an automotive relay and used the reverse light power as the switch signal and ran a new wire straight from the fuse box to power the camera (which was actually for the accessories socket I wired in the boot at the same time since the liftback doesn't come with one).
The converter box is just sitting loose behind the climate controls beneath the head unit, I have it wired direct from the fuse box from a spare socket that gets switched with ignition. At the moment I'm using piggy back fuse sockets I got from Autobarn but I have to rethink this as I can't put the fuse box cover back on at the moment.
Currently the picture from the camera tears at the very top of the frame and you can see some interference/shadowing scrolling down the picture. I'm not sure if this is the camera (I tested first it by plugging it into the tv and I didn't notice it then), the converter box, or if the wiring is picking up the interference. It might be worth buying a much better quality shielded signal cable to run from the camera to the front of the car.
Those are the main things to watch for. If I think of anything else I'll post it.
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