The great big MK6 Golf 118TSI tuning thread

[Mysticality]

Link to post for pics?

[rygreen93]

Hi Guys

I have parted ways with my 118tsi to move on to the MK7 GTI. I have taken my custom intake out and am selling it for $100 + shipping if anyone is keen. If you would like pictures let me know but I have posted pictures of it in this thread before.

I will still keep an eye on this thread to see what you are all pushing into these beasts.

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[lordlosh]

Thanks man.
For the Spark, isn`t NGK Iridium BKR7EIX a good choice?

For Ignition Coil, this comes from Bosch for my car:
Coil, ignition (BOSCH , 0 986 221 023): AUDI, SEAT, SKODA, VW Parts - Bestpartstore.co.uk
Its said this is Comparison OEM Number:036905715G

I might very well get this 2, cause the price is good.
This Catch Can got to be what i look for, to reduce the carbon build up in the valves.
TMG Universal Baffled Catch Can
And the price for the intake system is perfect.
TMG Carbon Cold Air Intake – 1.4 TSI Twincharged

Also Greece is near to my country, should i consider going to TMG instead of Revo ?

[Rawcpoppa]

What brand should i look for ? NJK?

For the sparkplugs? I would stay oem: 03C905601B. These are made by NGK for VW.

NGK part number : SIZFR6B8EG

I've run these for 127k km and had zero issues. Note do not use 03c905601A as the gap is incorrect. These are found on older vw 1.4tsi engines.

The ignition coils latest part number : 036905715g

Many companies make the ignition coils but I would stick to popular brands like BOSCH. Maybe others can chime in.

[lordlosh]

What brand should i look for ? NJK?

[Rawcpoppa]

Stage 1 shouldn't wear out your clutches so just leave them. Have fun! Spark plugs and maybe ignition coils just to be safe.

[lordlosh]

I decide not to go for stage 2, its just not worth it.
Going for Revo stage 1.
Except the Pistons and sparks, should i change anything else?
My car is 2011 production year and im with the non-revised DSG clutches, which keep up to 250NM.
With Stage 1 i will go for 200hp and probably 300NM.
The question i have is should i change clutches now, or wait untill they fail and then replace them? Will they break anything if they fail ?
Also what can i done to reduce the carbon build up in the valves?
Also is it worth it to go for Intake Kit and if so, what brand should be?

[Mk R]

And yeah I will definitely be having the code tuned out so that it's a proper stage 2 tune. Guy at Harding performance has got the file ready to go already.

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That's awesome man, that's a fair price and it should work nicely. Everything I've read about the stage 2 maps is quite positive, even if it's a relatively modest gain over stage 1.

I've just ordered a center muffler to quiet down the TBE which should go on this month and then it'll be the APR tune seeing it's only an extra $200 after stage 1.

Has anyone with the 1.4 twincharger engine noticed a drop of boost at altitude? When I reach the top of the Blue Mountains or the Snowy Mtns ive lost about 3-5 PSI of boost. I can feel the power loss on acceleration too. As soon as I'm back down at sea level it's boosting up to 21-22 PSI again.

I know it's normal for some boost loss at altitude due to relative ambient pressure being lower but I was surprised it was felt so soon. I'm going to have check the valves and hoses again. Also feeling a general lack of urgency above 4000 RPM so it'll be interesting to see what shape the turbo is in after 120,000km at the next service.

[rygreen93]

And yeah I will definitely be having the code tuned out so that it's a proper stage 2 tune. Guy at Harding performance has got the file ready to go already.

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[rygreen93]

Okay. Based on the fact that I have every component installed apart from a DP and I have done everything by the book up until now. I called the exhaust shop and they have advised that it will be about $600 for a custom 2.5 inch DP that attaches to the catback after the bend over the axle and uses proper heat shield material not just wrap. So I'll be saving for a few months for that. I would rather just go ahead and do it properly rather than having to do it twice.

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[The_Hawk]

Bottom line here, it’s all about increasing the flow rate. So what’s the difference in flow between high flow cat vs knocking out the stock unit? (or an aftermarket downpipe)?
Do the tuning houses offer a “decat” tune in Australia? (given the potential EPA impacts and all).
I assume coding the O2 sensor is better than faking it?? (is it used for anything else?)

But the big question still remains, what difference does it actually make?
How much more power?
Does it affect reliability in a positive/negative way?

[rygreen93]

This is the feedback I needed. You guys spend my money easily.

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[Mk R]

Also keep in mind that you need to step down from the 2.5" downpipe to the 2.25" exhaust. If you use the Brondex pipe that will happen immediately after the downpipe, which is a crowded spot, whereas a custom job might do it after the suspension kink and get you better flow.

[Mk R]

From memory the stock downpipe is 2.25" and looks a bit bigger than that with all the heat shielding on it.

Two things i'd be wary of with the stock solution:

1. You'll be left with a franken car when you come to sell it.
2. You won't get the full benefit of the cooler exhaust temps at stage 2 with a pipe thats 0.25" smaller diameter. I've no idea what the difference would be but i'm guessing it was enough for the 2.5" exhaust to be developed.

I saw this used stock downpipe on ebay if you're interested. VW Golf MK6 Catalytic Convertor 1 4 Cavd 02 09 04 13 P N 1K0131701EE | eBay

Overpriced but it's another alternative.

Have you considered asking an exhaust shop what fabrication of a custom pipe would be? Might not be very much...

[Mk R]

Hey Mk R. Why didn't you get me one? I'm still looking

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Heheh, there was only one but i've always got an eye out!