Mk1 16v Project

[Preen59]

I just received some info from Roger "Riceman" Lee about DCOEs. He offered me a base spec for what i'm building, which was really nice of him..

It may not live very long at 11 to 1 CR, but that is your motor. Set the Fuel Pressure at 3 PSI and not over 3.5 PSI. Any high, it will bend the Floats out of adjustment.
180 Degree Radius Air Horns about 50mm long work alot better than the... stock Weber Air Horns. Just remember that when air contacts a longer air horn surface radius lip, the better the flow.
Make sure you have vibration dampeners between the Carbs and Manifolds. The kind to use are molded rubber tube with flanges on the ends, about 25mm long. You will need four of them. I used ones made for a VOLVO. Take a Manifold gasket with you to a Volve dealer to match up the size. DO NOT use the double O-ring single plastic spacer type, they leak !
4.5 Aux Venturi and wire tie the set screws, 33 or 34 mm Main choke tubes (Venturi). 2.00 Air Corrector Jets, F-9 Emulsion tubes, 1.70 Main jet. These are just suggestions
Idle set screws should be about 3/4 turns out from closed. These must be set with a Tach. If the RPM rises when the # 1 screw is turned out 1/8 of a turn(fatter), the idle mixture is too lean. Turn the # 2 idle mixture screw the same amount and see what happens. Idle speed should be 1000 RPM.
If the RPM drops while doing this, it is too fat. You want the idle set screw set at the point of the highest rpm ( 1000 base rpm) before the rpm drops.
The motor should be at running temp when doing this and the carbs are syncranized, checking # 1 & # 3 barrels using a Uni-Syn flow gauge.

[Preen59]

Well.. I hope I didn't permanently lose those other posts.. But anyways..

First up today was make an oil pump gasket.. Turns out in the kit I got it was missing a pump gasket and a block breather housing gasket.. No biggie.

By the way, if you guys would like me to do a How To thread on making basic gaskets, I'm more than happy to..



Just a shot of the bottom end..



Fitted the main seal plates..




Then onto fitting the oil pump, windage tray and sump.. FYI, it's a good idea to fill the oil pump with oil or grease and wind it over a few times. This wets the internals of the pump and ensures it won't be damaged on initial start up..

[Preen59]

Hmm.. I suppose I may aswell put that head on now, too hey?

A little oil down the bores, which will soak in while it sits..




Put the head on, torque the studs down to 50ft lbs, then 70.





A bit of a mock up to see how everything sits..

[Jarred]

mate, she's looking mighty tidy!

Congrats on finally getting it together! must feel good tio be making some big progress.

What colour is the block, looks a dark metallic grey on my comp, and looks really trick!

p.s. Polish the shizzle out of those trumpets

[Preen59]

The block is flat black, out of the same can as the cam cover.

And I'm going to get some 50mm aluminium trumpets, dooooood.


After I did that stuff I went about getting the inlet manifold to bolt up sweet and also had to trim the gasket to suit the bigger ports.

During this, I came to the conclusion that there was no way I was going to be able to get 8mm nuts in the cutouts, let alone a spanner to do them up. Bolts were also out of the question, as I couldn't even get them through the holes.. What to do??

I know, old aircooled VW stepped studs!! 8mm one end, 6mm the other. Perfect! Dad had a heap, so i picked what I would need and loctited them in the head.

Then I get some 8mm pushrods, drilled the hole out to 6mm and parted them off 10mm long on the lathe. This acts as a location for the manifold and gasket. Worked out perfect.





I then fitted the manifold, only to find out that although I could get a nut on the top left stud, It didn't have enough clearance for a spanner. So A little work with the die grinder and a rotary burr fixed that. No pics but it looks OK.

Tomorrow, drill and tap a hole in the manifold for a vacuum line.

[schoona]

As I said, looks great!

Wouldn't be too far off being boxed up for good now surely?

[Preen59]

As I said, looks great!

Wouldn't be too far off being boxed up for good now surely?

Taking it to Golfworx Performance at the end of Feb to get all brake and fuel lines done.. Plus the wiring.

[Preen59]

More done today..

I drilled and tapped the hole for my brake booster line..



Then pulled the heater box out.. Messy.

[Volksee77]

been there before, you will have heaps of fun sorting the harness out, took me about 2 hours to sort my old one out but i had done it many times before. Enjoy

[Preen59]

been there before, you will have heaps of fun sorting the harness out, took me about 2 hours to sort my old one out but i had done it many times before. Enjoy

Haha. Thankfully Tim knows them like the back of his hand. So it should work out fine.

[16v_kid]

Nice one. How much did you open the ports up? Are you running standard valves?

[Preen59]

Nice one. How much did you open the ports up? Are you running standard valves?

The ports are probably opened up around 3-4 mm total at the entry. Not very much down the throat. It has .5 O/S valves inlet and exhaust.. If you read through the thread all the info is there.

[16v_kid]

The ports are probably opened up around 3-4 mm total at the entry. Not very much down the throat. It has .5 O/S valves inlet and exhaust.. If you read through the thread all the info is there.

Cool, cheers mate!

[Preen59]

Hmmmm...

http://www.redlineweber.com/html/application_guide/deluxe_cable_linkage_for_dcoe_ca.htm

I think so.

[Preen59]

I received a package today..




Smart arse, Pete! haha. Thanks man!