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I called in to see my mate at Orange Engine Reconditioners this afternoon. We discussed the best options as far as getting the correct comp ratio and the best way to do it, the pro's and cons of them all etc etc.
To cut a long (and probably boring to you guys) story short, he's going to skim what needs to come off the block to clean it up, then we'll measure the correct deck height from the crank centre line, measure the combustion chambers (gotta drop by my Uncle's and grab his Burette) for the head CC's and i can then work out a gudgeon height from the crown of the piston to give me exactly 11:1 compression including the head gasket.
I'll take some pics when i measure the chambers and show you what i mean etc and post the equations for working all this stuff out later on..
First up I had to make a CC plate out of some clear perspex. Luckily i had a panel out of a cargo barrier lying around, so i grabbed the hacksaw, ripped off a square section and cleaned it up with a file, then bashed a 6mm hole in the centre.
My inlet valves, being .5 oversize, juuuuuust protruded past the head surface, so i had to place the plate over the combustion chamber and lightly tap it with a soft hammer on top of the inlet valves to mark the plate. Then i just grabbed the die grinder and put a couple of nicks in it to clear the valves..
First things first.. Get the deck of the head level..
I sat it up on 3 points and used the cam cap nuts as jacking points. it worked well..
Next, set up the burette. Fill it with metholated spirits and zero it out. (sorry about the poor pic quality. I thought the camera was focused on the tube.. turns out i was wrong. Stupid auto focus! haha)
Now, grab some petroleum jelly and put a light smear around the edge of the combustion chamber and then push the CC plate down onto it, ensuring that it has sealed all the way around. This holds the plate in place and seals it so that the metho doesn't seep out..
Grab your burette and start filling.. This takes a while but once it reaches the top you have to be quick with the reflexes to cut it off as the fluid hits the plate. You will see a bubble start to form. When this happens you need to dribble it in to ensure the bubble doesn't cut away from the hole. If it does, you have to rock the head around juuust a little to get it to move back to the centre and dribble it in again. The trick is to dribble the metho down the side of the hole so it carries along the roof and drops in at the back of the bubble. Fill until the bubble is removed but without filling your fill hole up.
When you're finished it should look a little something.. Like this..
Here's a shot of a small bubble almost finished. As you can see i've managed to keep it in the middle on this one and it was relatively easy..
The results of the head CC's are as follows..
#1- 47.75cc
#2- 47.50cc
#3- 47.55cc
#4- 47.65cc
Giving me an average chamber capacity of 47.62cc's. I'm quite impressed that they were all within .25cc. Good to know that they are so close!
VW: it aint just a car, its a way of life There are few things more satisfying in life than finding a solution to a problem and implementing it
My Blog: tinkererstales.blogspot.com.au
I dropped the block off to Andy this arvo. Took me 45 minutes to get out of there because he was busy telling me how busy he was.. hahaha. Got a small job out of him too, though!
Nice write up with the head CC's! Top work. Are you getting Andy to bore and hone it in the future aswell?
You could very easily surface grind the block in the toolroom to a great finish or even better fly cut it! I fly cut mine with a ceramic inserted 500mm cutter at 800rpm. Just wondering why you dont do it yourself... You have access to better machinery than Andy thats all...
Originally posted by twin eng, twin turbsView Post
Nice write up with the head CC's! Top work. Are you getting Andy to bore and hone it in the future aswell?
You could very easily surface grind the block in the toolroom to a great finish or even better fly cut it! I fly cut mine with a ceramic inserted 500mm cutter at 800rpm. Just wondering why you dont do it yourself... You have access to better machinery than Andy thats all...
Thanks dude.
Yes and no.. We probably do have better machines, and yes i could do it.. But there's a few things to consider..
- I've never done this before and i don't want to screw it up.. No second chances on this one..
- All the setup time it would take me to get it all sweet seems to make it look a bit less viable to me..
- Andy knows what he is doing. I have seen his work first hand. He did all the machine work on the dragster block and heads and did a spot on job. If my gear is in his hands, i know it will be right.
- It won't really cost me that much to get him to do it. I do the odd job for him and do it for free and he does machine work for me for (what i'd consider) SFA.
Long term, yes i would love to have a crack at machining and building an engine from pan to rockers (or pan to carbie/injector if it's a V. Not this time though. I'm not confident enough to have a crack at the machinework myself.
Speaking of which.. I went and saw him today.. Block has been ground. .005" to clean up. Looks the goods. He's going to measure the deck tomorrow for me and bore it. Once i get a deck height i'll order pistons and once they turn up, Andy will hone the last few thou out to suit each individual piston (if they vary).
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