Downpipe for 2008 VRS TFSI

[VRSJas]

What's better 100 cell cat or 200 cell cat?
Thanks

[NOO63N]

Hmm correct me if I'm wrong
Empire downpipe $189 + 55
200 Cell Cat: $150?
Weld: $100?
Total: $484

May be worthwhile is picking up a brand name second hand downpipe in the end...

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[VRSJas]

Yup agreed but I haven't seem any come up. Knowing my luck there will probably be a flurry of them now.

[NOO63N]

Haha all good mate, saving a few bucks is still a few bucks to spend else where!! Honestly depending on how you go I may follow in your footsteps!

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[VRSJas]

Yeah no probs, I'm going to document it so it's easier for people to go my way. I figure I'm up for about $500 - 550 when done.
I guess my other motivation is that I don't have to fork it all out in one go.

I still have the question of 100 cell or 200 cell cat.

I understand that a 200 cell is better for the environment bit on the grand scheme of things does it hurt performance that much?

[NOO63N]

I heard with a 100 cell you'll throw a CEL, don't quote me though as that may not apply to the stage 2 tune...

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[Lucas_R]

Downpipe for 2008 VRS TFSI

If you get the appropriate tune update then it wont matter whether you have no cat, a 100 cel, 200 cel or otherwise.

100 cel will not pass an emissions test though - better off to get a 200 cel and then you wont have to worry about that. All the aftermarket dump pipes have 200 cel cats

[h100vw]

I heard with a 100 cell you'll throw a CEL, don't quote me though as that may not apply to the stage 2 tune...

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200 Cell if you want to remain legal, 0 cells if you don't Performance loss negligible in the grand scheme of things

[zei20t]

also, if it takes a few days to organise your tune, you can do about 50km without the CEL coming on. not to mention it doesn't really do any damage. it just thinks the cat is dead.

[VRSJas]

I have ordered a 200 cel cat. My thinking is that I may as well try and remain as legal as possible.

I have done a bit of reading and the power difference between 100 and 200 cel is not a real hell of a lot.
I have a OBD 2 dongle that I can use to check the CEL code to make sure it is only the cat that is pulling the error.

Thanks everybody for your help and suggestions so far. When I have this all done I will do a little write up so others can find the info without asking all the same questions that I have.

[zei20t]

installation is a piece if piss too BTW. you could probably manage it in a garage with it up on ramps.

[brad]

What's better 100 cell cat or 200 cell cat?
Thanks

Based on my armchair, internet research:

100 cell (per sq inch) cat will flow 2x (?) better but probably chuck a CEL on a stg1 tune.
200 cell (per sq inch) cat should be error free.

Keep in mind you're going from a cat with 60mm inlet/outlet & 800 cells sq/i to a 75mm i/o so the flow will be vastly improved if the x-section of the cat is similar.

When I was enquiring, the one & only exhaust place I rang told me I should get a 100 cell. I told him it would throw a CEL with a Stg1 tune. He didn't know what I was talking about.

If you are getting a stg2 tune they should be able to write out the CEL error in the programme.

[VRSJas]

installation is a piece if piss too BTW. you could probably manage it in a garage with it up on ramps.

Thats the whole idea. I managed to do the clutch in my XT Forester on the driveway I reckon I can manage a DP.

I plan to get mine off then take the whole unit to the exhaust shop get them to put it together and take the new unit bake and fit it.

Brad: I went with the 200 cel it comes with a bung in it as well for the sensor which I thought would be helpful.
After doing this I may just stretch it to the stage 2 tune for the little extra.

[zei20t]

smart idea, they can use the old one as a jig.

[brad]

Thats the whole idea. I managed to do the clutch in my XT Forester on the driveway I reckon I can manage a DP.

I plan to get mine off then take the whole unit to the exhaust shop get them to put it together and take the new unit bake and fit it.

Brad: I went with the 200 cel it comes with a bung in it as well for the sensor which I thought would be helpful.
After doing this I may just stretch it to the stage 2 tune for the little extra.

Yeah, I did my reply before reading the whole thread. I have a (bad) habit of doing that.

I did my downpipe R&R on front stands in the garage. Easy job. Only 1 nut that is character building - top closest to the block. I loosened it with a Stahwille short ring spanner & spun it off with a 17mm socket on a short 75mm handle 1/4 drive ratchet. It will fight you most of the way off. Lucas reckons you can get at it from the top with an extension. I didn't bother trying as I was making progress & not bleeding so I thought that was pretty good.

You need to take the white plastic heat shield off the driveshaft (2x 17mm bolts) & the joining sleeve is 2x13mm & the pressed steel crossbrace is 4x 13mm. I started at 14.30 & was finished by 16.30 IIRC but I'm an old ditherer.