MountainBikeMike's Skodaru

[MountainBikeMike]

I mean in this photo. Make a flat plate with 2 holes. Bolt it to the mount point on the block & then nut/bolt it to the bracket on the pipe - something like that. The bracket looks close to the oil filter so you might want to reverse the twist that appears to be there. Grab it with a couple of shifters to take the load off the weld as it will probably snap if you try & twist against the weld.

Good idea! Realistically though, I should be going somewhere to buy a longer silicone hose for the inlet manifold to charge pipe connection. This will allow me to shift the entire charge pipe over to the right in the pic, meaning that silicone tube is smoother (with less chance of an air leak), and the bottom silicon tube that goes to the intercooler will be less stretched. At the moment you can't see it, but it gets really narrow just after the new charge pipe.

After thinking about that last bit and having done the dyno today, I really think that may have caused a severe restriction . Where is the best place to buy those short 45 degree-ish silicone hoses for the inlet manifold?

Try this mate, hope it helps...

VWVortex.com - Need help identifying HPFP washer...

Mate, legend. This confirmed what I thought would be the only cure. Will sort this out tomorrow!

It arrived? Awesome.

Pics when done
The tip is almost identical to the existing vRS tip, just larger and meaner

As requested:

It's a little sh17ty from phone recording, but I'll do a better one one day.

[MountainBikeMike]

Today I hit up the HPF Dyno Day in Dandenong. It was an awesome morning with a dj, amazing rides (some so exotic), free red bull, snags, and the dyno's.




My first time ever doing a dyno


Here she goes.


Make some noise!



Sigh... Not really anything near what I was hoping for, even after dropping my expectations with the heat and all. I noticed that the air fuel ratio was really messed at some points, and also I was gaining a degree in the inlet... Not too bad I guess. I definately need to do a carbon clean after this, remove the whole manifold etc. Also will have to fully fix the hpfp leak, and fix the kinked intercooler charge pipe hose. There is also a bad hesitation happening in 2nd sometimes at WOT. Seems like a boost leak

... Better luck next time.

[Martin]

How did you end up with less than stock kw?
I thought you were on a BlueFin stage 1?

[Deadpool]

How did you end up with less than stock kw?
I thought you were on a BlueFin stage 1?

It's measured at the wheels, not the flywheel. There's a significant drivetrain loss when going on a Dyno. To put it in perspective a GIAC Stage 1+ Mk5 GTI made 146atw but would've had around 190 at the flywheel. Plus, every Dyno is different and as posted above, Mike is having issues with the car since the Fuel Pump.

[brad]

mike
rather than remove the inlet, have you thought of doing a "steam clean" of the inlet via the air temp sensor port using a garden sprayer with water or water/meth or water/white spirits etc? It's worth a try.

I've looked for a youtube link but can't find one.

[MountainBikeMike]

mike
rather than remove the inlet, have you thought of doing a "steam clean" of the inlet via the air temp sensor port using a garden sprayer with water or water/meth or water/white spirits etc? It's worth a try.

I wish it was that simple, and I've used a few more expensive cleaning products before in there, but from looking at the pictures and reading about the build up on the Audizine carbon build up megathread, I believe any outside measure wont do a good enough job- far from.

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Today I received the Kufatec E-MFA add-on second hand from someone on here. It gives extra info from the cars MFD such as fuel in liters, boost (although for some reason doesnt work with petrol cars), voltages, water and coolant temps, and also logs 0-100 times and a few more things. And you can play that old Nokia game, Snake



Didn't take to long to install, its plug and play. But I had to spend over an hour move things around and zip tying. Then I had to cut out the back part of the head unit cage to make space for wires (it already had to be jammed in because of the DNS-810 being deep. I also had to cut a section out to the side to fit the Kufatec... Looks so dodgy. I'm lucky I didn't snag a wire...


Cut the end


Next, you can see the section on the left I chopped out...


Cool! Definitely need to play with this more.

I also made the access better to my iPod and cable



Then I made a nice hole to access the USB drive port



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Now does anyone know the difference between these cheap ****7ers and the proper ones that Dub Addiction sells???

[Deadpool]

Terrific work Mike, glad you jumped on that.

[OctaviaKid]

I don't know what it is?

[Deadpool]

I don't know what it is?

It's a catch-can. Should get a proper one made for our cars though.

[OctaviaKid]

It's a catch-can. Should get a proper one made for our cars though.

Next question what does it do /why is it good/helpful?

[brad]

catch can I believe.


Mike, have you had a borescope into your inlet to see how it looks? They are pretty cheap at Aliexpress.

I've water sprayed mine just before the last 2 oil changes & it's definately more sprightly afterwards. The first one was about a litre of straight water (because I've run straight water injection previously). Last time was a litre of 50:50 water:turps.

I can see water injection in your future.


re: the catch can. I reckon you'd be better off looking for a cheap 2nd hand name brand unit. Maybe from one of the US forums?

[14nce]

Now does anyone know the difference between these cheap ****7ers and the proper ones that Dub Addiction sells???

The propper Catch cans (42DD) have a filter/gause inside that catches more of the vaporised oil in the air passing through it. SO it Catches more basically.

Also has the option of a tap on the bottom for easy emptying and come as a kit with all the bits to install on a VW var

[MountainBikeMike]

Brad, how does a liter of water and girls not find it's way in to the pistons? How do you drain it out? Also, the process has to be good enough to clean the valves as well and you have to be able to crank the motor to get to the valves

The propper Catch cans (42DD) have a filter/gause inside that catches more of the vaporised oil in the air passing through it. SO it Catches more basically.

Also has the option of a tap on the bottom for easy emptying and come as a kit with all the bits to install on a VW var

Cool that's what I was looking to hear. I need a proper vw kit anyway to get the Pcv plate with it. There's hardly any way I could fabricate mounts on to the current bsh pcv to make it neat enough.

[brad]

Mike
Basically, you get the engine up to NOT and then remove the air temp sensor from the front of the inlet manifold. Start the car (it will run like a hairy goat) & bring the rpm up to 2500rpm (put a stick on the throttle pedal & jam it into the seat).

You them get a garden sprayer set on a fine mist with 1-2 litres of water or a water/metho/turps (depending on what part of the world you are it's sometimes called mineral spirits or white spirits)/ turco (I thaink that's been banned now) / carb cleaner / light hydrocarbon chemical / methyl chloride, methanol, methylene dichloride paint stripper (same as carby cleaner) - As long as it isn't caustic as caustic soda (oven cleaner) will eat up the aluminium.

Put the spray nozzle into the air temp port (the revs will shoot up to 6k or so because you no longer have an air leak) and then start spraying the water so the revs drop back to about 2500rpm. If the engine starts to stuble you stop spraying. The venturi effect will actually try & suck the water out of the sprayer.

The hot engine turns the water into steam & it goes straight out the exhaust pipe. The steam cleans out the carbon.

You could try soaking in Simple Green first or mixing Simple Green with the water.

This guy is a bit heavy on water for my liking

This guy basically has it right but geez he rambles

[Skooter]

Mike
This guy is a bit heavy on water for my liking[/URL]

Holy shaeze! Would I EVER risk trying that on my donk??? Why not connect a fire hose to it?! Surely a few track days would be a more enjoyable (and less risky) way to decarb inlet valves?


And big diff between water/turps/metho/carb cleaner too.