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Just wondering if anyone has gone down the exhaust route on their 162TSI RS yet?
keen to hear your thoughts and results.
Thanks
I think Milltek is one of the few out there. There's sound clips and whatnot on the Briskoda forum. One aussie bloke (doesn't post here though) put one on and mentioned the note doesn't much change from stock apart from the extra dsg pops and farts you now get. Though i think you'll get a CEL with the exhaust unless you get a tune. I plan on doing just the downpipe initially and if there isn't much extra noise i may get a custom catback.
Down pipe will slightly move the o2 sensor in relation to stock position. This will give different readings (as distance from exhaust is taken into account in the calculations). Different readings to expected = CEL
2014 Skoda Ambition Plus 103TSI candy white wagon, 6sp Manual, Tech pack, Panoramic Sunroof, 18's, Colour Maxidot, Comfort BT
Ordered 07 May 14 (Wk 15), Built Wk 37, Loaded 27/9 (wk 39), Docked 12/11 (wk 46), DELIVERED! 12/12 (end of wk 50 - 7 months + 1 week).
Just put a Haldex sport controller in my 4x4 Octavia. This gives the Gen 2 Haldex in my car switchable (by a remote) Stock, Sport & Race mode's for the balance of drive through the Haldex drive to the rear wheels. In Stock mode the balance is mostly to drive the front wheels (along the lines of 98/2 %) only putting drive through to the back when they slip (I've never felt them slip so it must be quick). Sport mode puts more drive to the rear before it slips (so pretty much all the time). Race mode does that too, but quicker.
Just had a quick blat along a windy tarmac and dirt road and you can feel it, particularly fun on the dirt.
Bit of a gamble at $1480 (and that's a special price at the moment. Normally it's $1600!), since it's produced in Canada and they don't have TDI's in Northern America so I wasn't sure it would suit mine.
Goes on fairly easily except getting the electrical connectors off the Haldex is tricky. You need to route a cable through to the boot for the remote control box which has to be inside the car.
I have a set of H&R anti roll bars and have the rear one on (noticeable difference). Also Superpro lower control arms with anti lift bushings (was going to be just a Whiteline anti lift bush kit - now for sale) and Koni FSD shocks to go on soon.
When tweaking a clients superb with a similar system, I found you have to tell the park sensors control module that a reserve camera is present. At the time the tickbox didn't exist in VCDS on skodas, I had to copy the raw hex code from a VCDS screenshot the client luckily happened to have from a VW module, but I think its in VCDS 12 now...
Edit: Here's a shot of the working code. Remember some settings might be telling it to expect a superb sized car.
Looking at the coding I just did similar on my RS, BUT you only need to add @ byte 0, bit 6 in module 10 with the long coding helper. If not immediately there then use Lcode 2 and do it manually. You also need @byte 3, bit 6 in module 37. Do the same with lcode 2 if not available as a check box.
Works perfectly.
I took Kamold's suggestion and actually powered from the rear wiper +12V and used a relay, with the rear led as the switching current. Then at the front I used the same switching current and powered the RGBS converter with another relay from the RNS 510 permanent +12V.
The Camera I got has a particular video cable with a current wire in parallel so I dont have to run 2 cables to front for the second switching wire for the front relay
I had a Whiteline WALK and lower control arm front bush I was going to install, but then got SuperPro alloy lower control arms instead. Here's some pics comparing standard, Whiteline (gold) and SuperPro. The Whiteline comes with optional even harder inserts for the bush suitable for track use.
Just got a APR Stage 1 flash done at Prestige Auto Works on my MY15 VRS. Massive difference. Thumbs up to the fellas there the service was very good.
I've been thinking about getting the APR tune done as well.. it's good to see others doing it as well.
What has been the biggest difference? Like.. does the power come on earlier in the rev range... ? How does it handle putting that extra power down through the front wheels?
So close to pulling the trigger...
Power curve on their website feels accurate. Its pretty intense, 1st and 2nd you want to bring the pedal in gradually.
3rd is pretty dependent on the road surface, tyres etc it can bag them up thats for sure.
4th onwards is pretty safe although I haven't driven in the wet yet. Looks like ill get to try it today.
Oh and that's with the TCS off.
The arms seem to be a really good next mod now for sure.
Interested to know what mods you're running and with what tune? Have you done anything to address traction issues? What kind of outputs are you achieving on Stage 2?
Been mod shopping lately and have myself a CTS intake and downpipe (with O2 spacer) and Eibach Sportline springs on their way. Also enquiring about a custom exhaust - strangely the downpipe added no addition sound!?
I'm undecided on which tune to go with as they all differ in price and power outputs. APR seem to be squeezing out more Kw's and Nm's than other options like Revo and Spectune but is also the most expensive. Spectune seems to be more of a custom tune as the reflash is based off of your own stock map rather than an "of the shelf" or "one size fits all" approach.
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