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Harold - the T25 van (1.8T content)

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  • #31
    Originally posted by GeorgeMK1 View Post
    VWWatercooled Images < -

    Theres the link I wanted to show you mate. That is what I now use to upload pics
    Thanks for posting this link. I tried it yesterday & it works a treat. I am now ready if & when I need to post a picture.
    Understand how it works, troubleshoot logically BEFORE replacing parts.
    2001 T4 TRAKKA Syncro 2.5TDI,2006 Mk5 2.0TDI Golf manual,2001 Polo 1.4 16V manual [now sold], '09 2.0CR TDI Tiguan manual,
    Numerous Mk1 Golf diesels

    Comment


    • #32
      Originally posted by jets View Post
      Just wondering, do you work on VWs for your day job?
      Originally posted by jets View Post
      Thanks for posting this link. I tried it yesterday & it works a treat. I am now ready if & when I need to post a picture.
      My pleasure, glad it worked for you too.

      And yes I do, I run the parts and warranty department at my local dealership. It has its benefits
      - Orange Golf mk1 LS, 1.8 5speed, 32/36 - sold
      - Golf mk1 Swallowtail rebuild, completely stripped
      - Brown U.S import 81 cabby
      - 88 Honda crx b18cr

      Comment


      • #33
        ​Hey guys, not much of an interesting update today, but still a very important step forward.

        Had some time free this arvo and wanted to redo the fuel system today. I wasn'y happy with the plastic fuel lines and cracked fuel hoses. I ordered new alloy fuel line from aeroflow. $45 delivered through ebay. Really easy to bend and use too!


        Here is a comparison pic between the original fuel pump, and my new (old) Bosch 044 pump. This thing is super powerful, and will supply plenty of high pressure fuel for the motor!





        Here's the line in comparison.




        Here's the return line routed. Tucked away as much as possible




        After I ran the feed line, I made a little bracket from some scrap alloy I had, it just holds both lines neatly in place.




        Lastly here is the pump, and two fuel filters. I opted to add another small inline filter before the pump, as in the past I've had a brand new fuel pump fail within a week. I decided to crack the case open to inspect, and found a tiny little rock/dirt inside that jammed it all up - so thought it's not worth it. Here it is all setup, I tested it when 12+ and works perfectly with plenty of pressure. This whole exercise took me 5 hours, a lot longer than I imagine haha, but atleast the fuel system is now complete.

        - Orange Golf mk1 LS, 1.8 5speed, 32/36 - sold
        - Golf mk1 Swallowtail rebuild, completely stripped
        - Brown U.S import 81 cabby
        - 88 Honda crx b18cr

        Comment


        • #34
          Tuesday night was spent putting on the K03s with all new gaskets all round. Its now on and all lines are good to go.

          Then last night started off super fun, and ended in tears.

          Borrowed a friends torque wrench to be able to get the bolts down to the manufacture settings for the adaptor plate.
          I aligned the adaptor plate and proceeded to tighten the bolts, the larger 19mm bolts are to 45ft/pd, while the smaller 3 on the bottom are 35ft/pd. I also put on red Loctite as I like to be sure.




          After that, I gave the flywheel a quick clean of its protection oil residue. Then proceeded to Loctite and tighten the flywheel bolts too. Manufacture recommended 55ft/pd and then I tightened a tiny bit more after that.




          A quick clean of the pressure plates proactive oil film, clutch disc on, followed by the pressure plate. I took the risk of re-using the old pressure plate bolts - that's where things went badly. I used the manufacturers recommended torque setting of 18ft/pd on grade 8.8 bolts but it felt too weak, so I went to give it another quarter turn, and the first bolt then snaps.
          The problem doesn't just end there - because I've been using Loctite on the other bolts, I used it on the pressure plate bolts too out of habit, and now it will be SUPER hard for me to get it out. I removed all the others, but now I'm dreading the worst.






          Does any one have any suggestions? I do have the reverse drill bits, but they are weak crappy quality and I don't think they will work. When I get home, I will try and start by drilling a tiny hole, and then going larger in size and see what happens. I can't believe I used Loctite....... what a fool!! I could have had the engine and gearbox mounted lastnight, ready to make new engine mounts.

          Any ideas, I'm open for it !?!?!? I've just ordered new pressure plate bolts so will have to remove this one some how
          Last edited by GeorgeMK1; 24-08-2017, 11:38 AM.
          - Orange Golf mk1 LS, 1.8 5speed, 32/36 - sold
          - Golf mk1 Swallowtail rebuild, completely stripped
          - Brown U.S import 81 cabby
          - 88 Honda crx b18cr

          Comment


          • #35
            Worse case scenario would be to enlarge each one and retap the thread to a slightly bigger one ,there are some gadgets that you can drill into the bolt and then reverse the boroken bit out second whats you adrress so I can send a box of tissues looks like you would need them !!

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            • #36
              Just warm up the broken bolt with a heat gun and with a centre punch tap the broken bolt out.Works every time. No need to use loctite on those bolts.
              Widebody Cayman S Turbo, 83 ur Quattro
              2000 996 C4 cab,12 Scirocco R OEM+ STG2+
              72 914 (3.2S boxster pwr), 92 G60 Corrado
              76 Scirocco(TFSI and DSG) 2018 Tiguan,Eureka,81 924.

              Comment


              • #37
                Do you think a heat gun will be hot enough? I was thinking of the smallest welding tip on oxy acetylene with lots of care, a little at a time.
                Understand how it works, troubleshoot logically BEFORE replacing parts.
                2001 T4 TRAKKA Syncro 2.5TDI,2006 Mk5 2.0TDI Golf manual,2001 Polo 1.4 16V manual [now sold], '09 2.0CR TDI Tiguan manual,
                Numerous Mk1 Golf diesels

                Comment


                • #38
                  Originally posted by Sunny43.5 View Post
                  Worse case scenario would be to enlarge each one and retap the thread to a slightly bigger one ,there are some gadgets that you can drill into the bolt and then reverse the boroken bit out second whats you adrress so I can send a box of tissues looks like you would need them !!
                  Yeah mate that will be the plan if all else fails. I have a tap and dye set too, just hope it doesnt come to that

                  Originally posted by aprr32 View Post
                  Just warm up the broken bolt with a heat gun and with a centre punch tap the broken bolt out.Works every time. No need to use loctite on those bolts.
                  Yeah I know, I made the mistake of using loctite on them. Also, how will a centre punch hit the broken bolt out? It has threads and is on really tight.. not sure how tapping it out will work.

                  Originally posted by jets View Post
                  Do you think a heat gun will be hot enough? I was thinking of the smallest welding tip on oxy acetylene with lots of care, a little at a time.
                  Thats exactly what my foreman said mate, heat it up little by little to break down the loctite. Will try a normal drill/reverse drill bit before anything though!
                  - Orange Golf mk1 LS, 1.8 5speed, 32/36 - sold
                  - Golf mk1 Swallowtail rebuild, completely stripped
                  - Brown U.S import 81 cabby
                  - 88 Honda crx b18cr

                  Comment


                  • #39
                    Tap the warmed stud on the side and it will screw back out,trust me it works.
                    Widebody Cayman S Turbo, 83 ur Quattro
                    2000 996 C4 cab,12 Scirocco R OEM+ STG2+
                    72 914 (3.2S boxster pwr), 92 G60 Corrado
                    76 Scirocco(TFSI and DSG) 2018 Tiguan,Eureka,81 924.

                    Comment


                    • #40
                      Originally posted by aprr32 View Post
                      Tap the warmed stud on the side and it will screw back out,trust me it works.
                      Ohhhh I get what you meant now. Yep that's a great idea actually and it certainly works effectively, I normally use a small chisel though!


                      Anyhow, no need for that as I got really lucky. Before pulling out the big guns, I thought I would try and use my ALDI special ($9.99 lol) reverse drill bits.




                      I used my smallest drill bit and drilled through the bolt. Then popped in the reverse drill bit and tapped it in snuggly with a hammer.




                      Then I grabbed the tool from my tap and die(dye?) set and used that to slowly turn it out.
                      I was really amazed that it all actually worked out perfectly, I was fearing the worst due to the Loctite and all but luckily it all worked out well. Damn I love ALDI so much.....






                      ...and now its on with where the build halted. Happy times.
                      - Orange Golf mk1 LS, 1.8 5speed, 32/36 - sold
                      - Golf mk1 Swallowtail rebuild, completely stripped
                      - Brown U.S import 81 cabby
                      - 88 Honda crx b18cr

                      Comment


                      • #41
                        nice work, i don't think i've ever seen i reverse drill bit come out as clean as that (a cheap one anyway). i have snapped them off in the past and then you're in big dramas...

                        cool build, onward and upwards...
                        sigpic

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                        • #42
                          Originally posted by guile View Post
                          nice work, i don't think i've ever seen i reverse drill bit come out as clean as that (a cheap one anyway). i have snapped them off in the past and then you're in big dramas...

                          cool build, onward and upwards...
                          That makes two of us hahaha. I was quite surprised to be honest, and reaaaally happy with it all working out too. Funny how I spend $20 on food just for lunch only to poop it out, and these $10 tools saved a whole world of pain!
                          - Orange Golf mk1 LS, 1.8 5speed, 32/36 - sold
                          - Golf mk1 Swallowtail rebuild, completely stripped
                          - Brown U.S import 81 cabby
                          - 88 Honda crx b18cr

                          Comment


                          • #43
                            In engineering, these are normally called easy-outs. One problem with these is if the stud is really tight, screwing it in [because of the taper] makes it even tighter. There is another type that is square on a slight taper with a slight cutting edge formed on one side so that it bites in when unscrewing. Once again if the stud is very tight, the square taper can distort it & make it even tighter. There is a skill required [based on previous stuff ups] on how large a drill is used. Too small & risk the possible breakage of easy-out or too large that allows the stud to distort & be made tighter.
                            In your case the head of the screw has broken off & the only thing needed to unscrew the stud [using the centre punch method] is to break the hold of the Loctite.
                            I am pleased for you that you had a happy outcome.
                            Understand how it works, troubleshoot logically BEFORE replacing parts.
                            2001 T4 TRAKKA Syncro 2.5TDI,2006 Mk5 2.0TDI Golf manual,2001 Polo 1.4 16V manual [now sold], '09 2.0CR TDI Tiguan manual,
                            Numerous Mk1 Golf diesels

                            Comment


                            • #44
                              Good job now can I have my box of tissues back ?

                              Comment


                              • #45
                                will you be running an intercooler?
                                If so, there will a heap of pipe work needed!

                                How's the little brown cabby going, I called into your place a few years back to get some rear seat belts from the cab you were wrecking!

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