Anyone used AIR-CELL Insulbreak for their Campervan Insulation

[Bryn23]

Over the last 2 weeks, I've read back to 2008 on threads about Campervan insulation and couldn't see any info on anyone using AirCell.

The AIR-CELL Insulbreak 65 looks like a great product as it is a 3 in 1 product, closed cell, reflective and great for a thermal break between the van..

AIR-CELL Insulbreak®, 3-in-1 thermal break insulation

I've got a basic understanding of the product. i recently studied as a Residential Drafter and i am a Cabinet Maker, by Trade (i also studied Fine Furniture at Sturt)

I know a lot of people just use Dynamat, but it is many used for sound.

I've used Dynamat on sound proofing my Can Am Commander. worked well for sound and heat. (engine is under you in a Commander), a bitch to put on, sticky and once its on its on.

i would be looking at Dynamat on the wheel arch's and then AirCell under the PlyFlooring and walls and roof with fabric over ply.

Anyone used AirCell it before....

Closed Cell, reflective, reasonably priced... i'm still working on my camper design... but i think it'll work for insulating a Campervan here in Aussie.

Any issues.

Cheers

[Seano]

Air cell relies on an air gap which is hard to achieve in a vehicle. Pick a proper barrier style insulation instead in conjunction with a reflective barrier.

[Bryn23]

From what i understand with the AirCell Insulbreak and the installing documentation is that it can go up against steel framing, it just needs a small air break on the inside, but i was thinking i could get away without it.


I did think of looking at sikaflexing 8mm bendy ply over the chassis points to give myself a air gap..

I was thinking KoolTherm as well, but wanted to explore this idea first, as it is more for keeping the heat out in summer and heat in winter.

Australia is an environment were too much insulation can cause issues, but none is not a great idea in my option.
just looking for enough temperature reflection and retaining heat in the outback in winter.

I've seen people use batts, but don't like the idea of batt (fibreglass or polyester) in the cavity's of a van.

The other option is 20m-25mm Kooltherm packed out like I've seen in the UK. but i think that is an overkill and its $$$$$

[Sunny43.5]

With over fifty years as a motor trimmer I will only give you my take on this subject . The BEST sound insulation we in the trim industry have used is a product we used to call triflex or underlay felt , its made up of shredded wool products so as we all know how good wool is for insulation etc . Now the reason we use this is flexibility it is best when glued to the inner side of a vans side walls and roof have a look at one I did last year you can see every single bare metal surface has been done http://www.vwwatercooled.com/forums/...tml?highlight= When glued to the actual side walls etc it first absorbs any outside noise and vibrations , plus it insulates against cool temperatures as it absorbs the temperature from outside . Probably much cheaper than most others as it is made up of recycled wool products comes in roll form 1.8 metres wide and comes in two thicknesses . This one our own current drive http://www.vwwatercooled.com/forums/...tml?highlight= another one for a friend http://www.vwwatercooled.com/forums/...tml?highlight= It is easily applied with spray contact glue in a cheap paint spray gun from Supercheap another hint is to get an old foam mattress and cut blocks of foam around 120mm square the width of the mattress or whatever the thickness is and use that to place behind any double skins as this will, cut down any other rattles etc also use it to fill in any cavities . The product is available from Nolans UDA Australia wide . Some parts of the van are awkward to get clear access to so I would cut a piece by measuring the area and then glue it in any excess is just fold back or tuck it into any surrounding double skin . As you can see by the photos I use alloy foil tape to cover any small holes and on our own van I used expanda foam for some areas which are hard to get any materials into . But you must not use it where the foam cannot escape easily as the stuff WILL bend the outer skin outwards as it expands I mainly used it in the very lower rocker areas and rear pillars . Hope this helps .

[Bryn23]

Cheers Sunny,

i did read the post's you wrote a few nights ago.. I'm just a little wary about using wool blend, they tend to hold a lot of moisture, well from my experience in the building game, mouldy packing blankets and from a few older cars i had when i was young...

it is a good product if dry and doesn't get damp, i was just looking at another way and I'm a big fan of closed cell products as they don't product mould or smell if they did get damp

By packing out from the chassis with bendy ply, in 400mm centres, i was hoping i could avoid having to try and fiddle around with the holes and gaps.

Pretty much like a residential dwelling, but replication in a van is quite different, i like to get the feed back, it might good in my head, but not practical in the real world...

Have you ever used this stuff before..water proof acoustic liner, thermal carpet insulation, under felt 4x4 floor underlay

it would be similar to the underlay felt, but closed cell and of course more $$$, I've seen cheaper similar stuff on eBay for a lot cheaper.

[Sunny43.5]

No cant help with that one , if the van is going off road and possibly a few deep water crossings then I would only use the wool blend down to a level where it may stay out of water . One of the problems with any vehicle and the Vans are no different is that water can get inside through various seams . The rockers from the front doors to the back of the van have multiple vent holes and water can get inside . Sad part is that the lower rockers are where most of the road noise will come from and in ours that's where I put lots of insulation sound deadner .

[rhodesy22]

Did you end up using this Bryn? How did it go?

[Bryn23]

Did you end up using this Bryn? How did it go?

Hey rhodesy,

No, i ended up ordering in Resomat (Sound Deadener) and some Aluminium foiled covered 10mm self adhesive close cell foam from Hong Kong.

That should do the trick.

I am temped to use a thinner Aircell as padding over the VW hardboard and under the stretch carpet, then i can really hide the hidden clips.

But thats properly going over the top.

[Bryn23]

This stuff is up the road from me, at 4mm it would make a good padding, and with Aircell, unless you get lucky you have to buy a roll

TradeSelect ThermalBrane 4 Foil Shed house insulation 1500mm wide per lineal mtr | eBay

[Sunny43.5]

Without blowing my own trumpet I can only repeat what I have done with cars vans etc for the last forty five plus years . As a motor trimmer car insulation sound proofing is an integral part of what we do . Its very rare unless you are buying a top of range vehicle to get any decent NVH quality . Most of the VW vans have a fairly good insulation at the firewall and inside the dashboard and floor area in front of the seats . Now in most Transporters excluding Multi vans and couple of others it stops there from the seats back you get nada nothing zip ! to get the best results you need to strip the van to its bare bones . I wont go into too much depth as I have posted many times on how I approach these jobs . I can suggest if bryn wants proof he gets in touch with me and I am more than happy to give him a test run in our van , if the quietness doesn't impress then I, ll hang up my credentials . Every one can be a contributor into what they think will work the best but I can assure them until you have had the time to be doing this work like myself your end result may not be the best you are expecting . There are a myriad of products out there and some of them are bloody good FOR WHAT they were designed for , houses buildings etc but NOT cars ! . Dynamat is okay up to a point but still falls short at the end . Nothing beats the wool blends as that is what they are famous for insulation and noise absorbtion . The biggest benefit is that it can be glued right to the metal panes giving maximum benefits , then it comes down to knowing what else can be done to make the job even better tricks of the trade so to speak . Contact me if anyone has any questions but please NO I don't do this work anymore except for myself , it can take loads of time and as I am getting older bending down is back breaking these days but advice is free of course .Howard

[Bryn23]

Hey Howard,

I have taken what you have done on board, the wool does work and its been around for years, and i have no doubt that its is super quiet.


Ive read a lot of threads from Europe and the UK on how they insulate and soundproof their vans, and i'm going to follow their way of doing it, and i just like the idea of a closed cell foam over underlay wool that is semi porous. (I've had issues with damp before with wool underlay, its why i looked at different ways)

Just different ways to skin a cat, both aren't perfect, but will do the job.

Your right about house products not being 100% perfect, rhodesy asked if i had done the air cell insulation, as when i was thinking about it, i'd though id post it to see any negative on the product it, I've since changed what i was going to use an follow the european way.

Still, I think it's possible to use it to improve the a vehicle insulation and sound, if its done right, but it would be very time consuming for less reward than your way or the european way.

Im sure he has read you sticky post of the Insulation and soundproofing, which is a great thread with tips and tricks

[Sunny43.5]

The problems with damp in Europe is they have a lot cooler climate and a lot of rain , I could only add that one of the main problems is that there is way too many open to road gaps along the bottom of the sills and other areas . This would allow water to be thrown up into the rockers causing rising damp . That's why I have made sure to seal as many holes as possible to stop water and dust etc from getting inside , one real thing I have seen is brake and exhaust fumes soot etc getting through various openings . Every time you touch your brakes a minute amount of pad dust can get sucked into the inside , in my work van after some panel work was done I stripped out the van and retrimmed the sides and roof . The amount of black residue in the roof was amazing , then there are times where doors are left open and water gets into the floor area or leaks from windscreens air con outlets and other places . I can say most definitely that after 13 years I only once had water in the rear and it was my own fault , After I changed the battery I forgot to reprogram my rear sunroof and it did not close automatically when the ignition was turned off , so a few hours overnight in the rain resulted in a wet patch on the floor carpet a few days later and it was fine again .