T5.2 / T5GP OEM folding mirrors install

[PATRICK6822]

This is a tricky one. In your 2011 Multivan the mirrors on each side are folded and unfolded by a LIN-bus command via the electric window motors, so there is no direct electrical connection to the mirror motors going to the inside of the car. The command travels via the CAN bus into the door.

The neatest option I can think of the top off my head, is to take off just the drivers side door panel, and then capture the existing OEM switch input cable that sets the mirrors to fold, as well as the door lock/unlock signal. But you'd have to somehow set the Chinese module to "hold" the switch input the whole time you wanted the mirrors folded/unfolded - because that's how the OEM original solution works.

If you want to do it without complex electrical trickery, then you'd have to take off both door cards, cut the mirror motor wires before they enter the window motor, and then just interface the Chinese module to those wires (completely disabling the current OEM system with it's LIN bus and CAN bus stuff) ... but this involves pushing the wires through the door-to-car loom tube which is a major pain.

Ultimately I think your whole issue of just wanting the auto-fold-on-lock is a different animal to the one in this thread, and the Chinese module is not likely the solution:

The neatest solution would be a simple chip plugged onto the CAN bus wires (high and low), which listens for the "door lock" CAN command, and sends the "mirror fold" CAN/LIN command, and vice versa. Is there such a solution?

It's stupid that VW don't just have this as an option in the menu... it would be three simple lines of code in the BCM CPU

Hi Robert, its so very frustrating, having everything i need already in the van just the wrong modules....mine are as follows:
Address 09: Cent. Elect. (J519) Labels:. 7H0-937-08x-09.clb
Part No SW: 7H0 937 087 F HW: 7H0 937 087
Component: BCM T5GP H+4 H47 0230
Revision: BO047001 Serial number: 0396 071110566
Coding: A8B079BA0E61241393204ED07CEA9ED4F08041FF60A4000030 0000000000
Shop #: WSC 02754 790 12345
VCID: 37282170EF4414CFABB-8062

Subsystem 1 - Part No: 1K0 955 559 AH Labels: 1K0-955-559-AG.CLB
Component: RLS 100311 05 54 0403
Coding: 03302E

Subsystem 2 - Part No SW: 7E0 959 801 C HW: 7E0 959 801 C Labels: 7E0-959-80X-V1.CLB
Component: J386__TSG_FT 003 3311
Serial number: --------------------
Coding: 050000

Subsystem 3 - Part No SW: 7E0 959 802 C HW: 7E0 959 802 C Labels: 7E0-959-80X-V1.CLB
Component: J387__TSG_BT 003 3311
Serial number: --------------------
Coding: 040000

I believe this module can't be coded through VCDS, as you said above, you would think someone clever would have made an a timed adapter that plugs in to the wiring from the door switch and the lock/unlock wires in the drivers door....maybe one day.

I don't fancy butchering the original wiring to the motors to fit the Chinese module, i thought i might be able to tap into the wires from the BCM and use the Chinese module just to link the door lock/unlock to the BCM to trigger the door motors.

thanks for your great info Mate

patrick

[Sunny43.5]

Could I just throw an idea in here ? if from what I am reading these mirrors only need a pulse to trigger them to fold / unfold is that correct ? Now from having mucked around with various elctronic things maybe if there is a positive signal that locks the doors and vice versa why not just run a single power wire from the fuse box fit two 12V relays that are triggered by the lock signal as they dont require a full 12 v signal to activate the relay . We used a similar setup for our trailer lights . Whe tapped into the factory tail lights and used the signal from indicators brake tail lights to trigger a relay for each of the trailer lights so the can bus did not read any foreign signal , might be worth a shot .

[tortilio]

Hello there, I would love to arrange something like this on my (hyper cuddled) New Beetle from 2006, but I have really little clues on how to achieve it. Despite having managed to self-instruct around a number of tasks in the past, and having by now succeeded in completing a few not so elementary jobs between mechanics and general maintenance, I unfortunately remain dramatically underprepared on the electronics side, hence my ask for some help here (by the way, I write form Italy, and ended up in this forum after failing to find anything on the subject within my national pages and language... be merciful with my inperfect english!).

Coming down to the point, I'd be be eager to implement the automatic folding of mirrors and having them behaving like described above. As well as I'd like to avoid opting for the purchase of the overpriced specific VW window motor.
At the purpose, I located a few aftermarket control modules over the Internet, but I have absolutely no idea on how and where to connect their cables (nine) in order for them to work in the same (or at least similar) way described in the munificent post by Yellow Melon.
Here are a couple of control modules I stumbled upon:


Going just a little further, I can report that the New Beetle manual folding rearview mirrors have an 8 pins connector (1 unused pin), while the electric folding types feature an additional 2 pins connector on the side (pictures following):


The proper folding mirror switch (1J1 959 565 E), instead, appears to share the same identical connector than its simpler colleague for manual folding mirrors (1J1 959 565 B):


Moreover, the door lock module is connected (to the mirror motor, or with some of its cables going straight to the the central ECU?) through an 8 pins connector (this is its code 3B1 837 015 AS):


That said, just in case the details might result of any "scientific" utility, I'm adding a bunch of VW codes of the window motor (please, mind that all of them apply to vehicles with driving wheel on the left, but I could provide the equivalent for australian, right hand vehicles):
Window motor, left 1C2 959 802 A
Window motor left, electric folding 1C0 959 802 B
Window motor, right 1C2 959 801 A
Window motor, right, electric folding 1C0 959 802 C

...And, at last, I'm also attaching a couple of pictures of the inner side of the door. Just in case...


That's the starting point, but I've no ideas on what to connect to what else... Every contribution will be hugely appreciated.
Feel obviously free to ask for any additional detail or picture that might become relevant, and a BIG thanks in advance!

[beny140]

You could consider my aftermarket approach on T6[emoji6]

Wysłane z mojego SM-G973F przy użyciu Tapatalka

[Sunny43.5]

You could consider my aftermarket approach on T6[emoji6]

Wysłane z mojego SM-G973F przy użyciu Tapatalka

Can I ask is that a relay work around you used , I posted similar option earlier as I used the same method with trailer lights .

[beny140]

I haven't seen your post regarding trailer lights. This is my own idea to interface OEM folding switch with cheap Chinese universal aftermarket mirror folding control module. Two extra relays allow for that and also there is no draw/load on the vehicle battery when ignition is off and mirrors are left folded in manually.
Also if you don't want to unfold on unlock you simply don't connect unlocking signal wire and mirrors unfold on ignition ON.

Wysłane z mojego SM-G973F przy użyciu Tapatalka

[Sunny43.5]

It was my way of bypassing VW and their ridiculous price for a bunch of wires for a trailer connection $600 plus , I was going too buy some relays and use each trigger wire from the tailights to activate each relay . One for each indicator brake lights and tail lights etc . But I stumbled onto a place doing tow bars and they actually had a specific box $120 with relays inside and it was prewired for each light so the Canbus doesn,t see the load . Best part was I can run LED trailer lights without the factory system having a heart attack , and there was no need for the cost of coding the van at a dealers $$$$

[tortilio]

Hi, and thanks for the advice, although I remain very unexpert and hardly understanding what exactly needs to be done.
So, here's a bunch of questions more...

1) Can I achieve the same results even without using relays, simply linking the control module to the proper wires? And what difference would it make, exactly: drawing power form the car battery, instead than from these relays?
If so, how can the relays provide power in place of the battery? And also, relying on the battery with the motor tuned off is not healthy for the battery, as a general rule, or it's just to be avoided in case you're short on battery charge?

2) Could you please indicate me some kind of proper relay for the job (any code, required specification?)?

3) Would a scheme like that depicted right below be fundamentally correct? And will I need to replicate it on the second door, or I'll need to duplicate the wires going from the control module to the mirror motor, and pass them unto the other side door and mirrors?


4) In order to link the control module to the ignition, do I need to reach to the central ECU, or it's just a matter of intercepting the right cable on the door panel, as for other cables?

5) I need to use some connector of the following (or alike) kind for joining separate wires, right?

And is it advisable to link the wires coming from the control module in a specific segment of the circuit, or it's indifferent. For instance: I had better catch the wires going to the external mirror as close as possible to the mirrors/motors, or maybe just before the connector at the end of the cable, or it's absolutely the uninfluential?
That's the very elementary basis, I know... but I tried t warn you before!!! AH AH


And - what's worst - something more to ask will certainly arise in my troubled mind, sooner or later... In the meantime, I can only renew my gratefulness for any reply!

[Sunny43.5]

Relays are pretty well much a way of not interfering with the vans Can Bus system , most wiring in these new cars are usually low voltage around 5V or there abouts .So any electrical motor would require 12V to work . When you use a relay it connects direct to a power source ie Battery , then there is an earth wire plus the up / down open / close wires or whatever is being driven . The last connection is from a source like a lock signal going into the door as it pulses [usually just a very quick pulse of power ] but remember it probably is only 5v or less but that is more than enough to trigger the relay which then transfers the 12v from the battery to the wires to the mirror or whatever needs the full 12 volts .

[tortilio]

So the relays work like a kind of minor ECU, relieving the central one from any duty. And they need to be directy linked, through cables, to the car battery.
Would you suggest me any kind of relay suitable for the above usage with power mirrors?

On the opposite, are there concrete risks of messing anything up, linking directly to the ECU? Or it would require some later coding by VW in order for the electric mirror folding to work?
And - one step before - does linking to the ignition mean linking to the ECU?

Also, isn't a 12V cable likely to be around the window motor?

[tortilio]

Back here after a while, and after getting the aftermarket control module, and having the chance to conduct some experimentation.

I managed to make it clear that the module is triggered by 12V impulses (I empirically tested it with lower voltage up to 5V, with no results), then sending electricity to the mirror folding motors for a time of 4 seconds.
Anyway, I observed that 1 single second in enough to completely open/close the New Beetle mirrors, and I actually wonder whether these additional 3 seconds with the motors receiving voltage and staying under motionless strain might result in some harm to the motors themselves, or would allegedly prove innocuous.

Should it be the case of the sadder, first mentioned option, could anyone point me to some relay able to cut the current flow down to, let's say, 2 seconds (or any alternative solution in order to prevent any damage to the "precious" mirror motors)?

As usual, thanks in advance for any response

[Sunny43.5]

The problem with that module is that its been built to have a 12v trigger where as a normal relay may not need the 12V , most relays around 15 amp should be fine . Test one to be sure first . I doubt those extra 2 seconds will have any effect on the motors as most electric motors like window winders will have power for a few seconds after closing against the top or bottom anyway . Although most modern cars have built in thermal cut out in their electric motors or like VW windows when the battery is changed you lower the window to the bottom and then to the top and hold for a second or two and it resets the one touch up and down function . Oh and by the way I would not use those plastic colored connectors as they've a nasty habit of cutting some of the copper strands and also can get resistance between the connections leading to irregular operation .