T5 Multivan Fridge Wiring

[simon_wa]

G'day All,

So I've had the new van since December and its time to start adding a few bits and pieces to make it more functional.

I don't want to go the whole hog on dual batteries to run the Engel, so instead invested in one of these. ABG-25 - 30 amp Low Voltage Cut-Out Unit | TRAXIDE - RV | Traxide - RV

However after looking over the van tonight, it looks a little more involved to run wires from the battery in the engine bay through to the middle and rear rows.

From what I can see under the front passenger seat, there is a channel in the floor that runs east west between the two front seats.

I assume the rear side panels will have to come out to get the cables in.

Can anyone advise the best route to get the cables inside from the engine bay and running down the drivers side to the back.

Regards
Simon

[Transporter]

I would run them under the van, rather than through the inside. Still would use min. 75Ah deep cycle battery and DC to DC charger.

[maelgwn]

G'day All,

So I've had the new van since December and its time to start adding a few bits and pieces to make it more functional.

I don't want to go the whole hog on dual batteries to run the Engel, so instead invested in one of these. ABG-25 - 30 amp Low Voltage Cut-Out Unit | TRAXIDE - RV | Traxide - RV

However after looking over the van tonight, it looks a little more involved to run wires from the battery in the engine bay through to the middle and rear rows.

From what I can see under the front passenger seat, there is a channel in the floor that runs east west between the two front seats.

I assume the rear side panels will have to come out to get the cables in.

Can anyone advise the best route to get the cables inside from the engine bay and running down the drivers side to the back.

Regards
Simon

Depending on your starting battery - you would only expect to get one day's use (or less) of the fridge before the low V cut out will activate. Might be enough for you?

Sorry can't really help with the wiring. I would start by looking at running them through an existing hole grommet in the firewall and under the door sill on one side. Consider wires big enough (e.g. 13mm^2) for a 2nd battery down in the future.

[simon_wa]

I would run them under the van, rather than through the inside. Still would use min. 75Ah deep cycle battery and DC to DC charger.

Thanks Transporter. My previous experience (ARB) on 4wd's was to run the smaller cables <6 mm inside and the larger (anderson plug etc) sized cables under the vehicle.

Ideally a dual battery would be best, but for the odd weekend away not needing 4wd capability (our other car is a landcruiser) this will provide some insurance the fridge can be left on and we don't have to worry about it.

Depending on your starting battery - you would only expect to get one day's use (or less) of the fridge before the low V cut out will activate. Might be enough for you?

Sorry can't really help with the wiring. I would start by looking at running them through an existing hole grommet in the firewall and under the door sill on one side. Consider wires big enough (e.g. 13mm^2) for a 2nd battery down in the future.

Thanks maelgwn. The small capacity is okay. Its intended to allow us to park the car most of the day and not worry about the fridge running whilst were out walking or down the beach etc.

There is a few grommets in the firewall, but there all tucked up quite high and towards the back. I'm starting tonight, so will update you all over the weekend on how I went.

[maelgwn]

There is a few grommets in the firewall, but there all tucked up quite high and towards the back. I'm starting tonight, so will update you all over the weekend on how I went.

In my golf I could poke a coat hanger from the grommet to the trim panel just above the sill on the inside of A pillar and pull the wire through there. Might be the same for you?

[Transporter]

Remove the black plate behind the battery, there is a blanking grommet on the firewall behind it (passenger side though), big enough for the heavier gauge cables as well.

Still you will run the risk of no start when your battery gets a bit worn out.

[simon_wa]

I got half of it done Friday night. I got the low voltage cut out installed and two new 12v outlets installed under the passenger seat in the trim at the base of the seat.






I used 6mm twin from the low voltage cutout running down the firewall along the main wiring harness. I had to remove the plastic guard under the passenger seat area which was 8x6mm bolts. And perfectly placed was a grommet which allowed access to under the passenger seat.

The plugs I installed are both Narva, no preference over say Hellla, just what my local Coventry's had in stock. I was quite impressed with the cigarette version though. You can install with or without the face plate. I installed without.
Heavy Duty Accessory Sockets - Products - Narva

Next will be to follow the main wiring harness across to the drivers side (under the vehicle) and connect both of the genuine cigarette plugs to the low voltage cut out.

I did remove the black plate above the battery and grommet behind, but the under the vehicle route was very easy (Thanks Transporter). I did jack the vehicle up and place rated axle stands under the front suspension cross members for greater clearance when running and cable tying the cable.

Will update when I complete the remainder.

Simon

[Transporter]

It looks like a very neat, well done job. Just make sure your trips are long enough to recharge the battery or better still charge frequently from the battery charger (like Ctek). I got more than 8 years (120,000km) out of my battery with a lot of very short trips by charging the battery every second weekend or so.

[Skoda VW]

I went a second battery for my small fridge. I only installed a 20AH battery as I only want to run it for a an hour when stopped.

Ran heavy duty cable in conduit under the car and into the van under the passenger seat to second battery. The fuses are under the seat for the cig lighter sockets, so I cut the wiring from the fuse box and connected my own circuit breakers so the two rear cig sockets run from the second isolated battery with low volt disconnect relay on the output.

Second battery is isolated from main via LVD changeover relay to keep the main available for starting. Relay was $70 from memory. Didn't cost that much as battery is small capacity SLA. Ended up running other equipment from the second battery later on as well (Roof DVD and 12V feed via relay to trailer connector).

[Transporter]

I went a second battery for my small fridge. I only installed a 20AH battery as I only want to run it for a an hour when stopped.

Ran heavy duty cable in conduit under the car and into the van under the passenger seat to second battery. The fuses are under the seat for the cig lighter sockets, so I cut the wiring from the fuse box and connected my own circuit breakers so the two rear cig sockets run from the second isolated battery with low volt disconnect relay on the output.

Second battery is isolated from main via LVD changeover relay to keep the main available for starting. Relay was $70 from memory. Didn't cost that much as battery is small capacity SLA. Ended up running other equipment from the second battery later on as well (Roof DVD and 12V feed via relay to trailer connector).

Smart! ...and you can always add on another 20Ah SLA battery should you need more capacity.