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I believe it was as was no height difference between the few if I remember right , but it literally just fits inside the barn seat storage area will send a photo if you like - previous photo further back in the thread
I think my 15 year old Pirahna Solar controller is dead. I installed the new 2nd battery and 100W solar panel a couple of days ago. I tested things today while parked in sunshine - battery was over 15volts and there was 4 amps going to battery. Solar controller had a yellow light on it which means only tricle/ float charge should be going to battery, but I reckon the controller is stuffed.
I have since disconnected the panel to preserve the battery.
It might explain why the previous optima & stock leisure battery both died....
What ya reckon?
Should only charge at 14.3-14.5, and float at 13.7 or so.
Hi Hoddy, all new batteries can be charged with up to 14.7v and will not be harmed by this voltage level if maintained for short periods of time, once the battery is fully charged, like while driving.
Unlike when driving ( shorter charge times ), with solar charging, because it is likely to be for long periods of time, each day, then it should go into float mode and no higher than 13.8v, once the battery is charged.
The only way your battery could be drawing 4 amps at 15v from a 100w solar panel is when your battery is already fully charged and is therefore being overcharged. Definitely time to look at a new solar regulator.
Last edited by drivesafe; 06-02-2018, 08:45 AM.
Reason: typo
The only way your battery could be drawing 4 amps at 15v from a 100w solar panel is when your battery is already fully charged and is therefore being overcharged. Definitely time to look at a new solar regulator.
Regardless of the condition of the battery, because the regulator was indicating it was in float mode, it should not be supplying anything above 13.8v, not 15v.
Mind you, the battery would eventually be stuffed if left on a charge voltage that high.
I think my 15 year old Pirahna Solar controller is dead. I installed the new 2nd battery and 100W solar panel a couple of days ago. I tested things today while parked in sunshine - battery was over 15volts and there was 4 amps going to battery. Solar controller had a yellow light on it which means only tricle/ float charge should be going to battery, but I reckon the controller is stuffed.
I have since disconnected the panel to preserve the battery.
It might explain why the previous optima & stock leisure battery both died....
What ya reckon?
Should only charge at 14.3-14.5, and float at 13.7 or so.
BTW, while it is rare for a solar setup to cook batteries, unlike the bogus claims that you can overload an alternator and burn it out, it is actually commonplace for battery chargers and DC/DC device to cook batteries.
BTW, while it is rare for a solar setup to cook batteries, unlike the bogus claims that you can overload an alternator and burn it out, it is actually commonplace for battery chargers and DC/DC device to cook batteries.
This is something an alternator never does.
So with these bogus claims you talk about, one would assume you are a qualified auto electrician or electrical engineer?
So are you?
Or are you just a salesman being bias towards other charging technology that competes against your product...
So with these bogus claims you talk about, one would assume you are a qualified auto electrician or electrical engineer?
Or are you just a salesman being bias towards other charging technology that competes against your product...
I've worked in this industry for just over 40 years, designing and manufacturing auto electrical and electronics equipment.
I would not expect anyone to take me at my word just because I posted it up here, so here are some easily verified facts to back my statements.
Solenoide type dual battery setups have been in regular use for 50 odd years now, and I started producing VSRs near 30 years ago.
Just 25 years ago, most vehicles had nothing bigger than a 55 amp alternator, yet adding a second battery or two did not "burn out" these small alternators.
Even today, the vast majority of dual battery system are based on solenoid/relay type systems.
In all this time, if you could mythically overload an alternator, why is there not lines of vehicles waiting at auto electricians and service centres, getting their alternators repaired or replaced.
Also, if it is so dangerous for your alternator, if you use a VSR type isolator, why is it that companies, like Redarc, still sell them, and heaps of them.
I have been supplying a kit for air cooled Kombis for around 10 years now, and being as most still have the standard 55 amp alternator, if the myth had any legitimacy, with all these kombis alternators charging two batteries, powering a fridge and any other accessories, plus providing the vehicle's electrical needs, and if they are being driven at night, powering all their lights, again, why is there no queues of kombi owners buying new alternators.
Furthermore, I deal in both VSR type dual battery system, and when I have a customer who will genuinely benefit from using a DC/DC device in their system, I refer them to the best type of DC/DC device for their specific needs. So I not only have an understanding of both types of DBS work, I also do not have a bias against charging technologies, I just prefer to use the technology that offers the best results in each specific setup.
The reality is that you can't overload an alternator, and there are very few vehicles, where the second ( auxiliary ) battery is fitted in the vehicle, that need any form of DC/DC device to be able to charge auxiliary batteries properly.
I have a 2011 T5 Multivan and looking for a second battery solution for camping (ideally under passenger seat as highlighted) but not feeling up to DIY solution.
Can anyone recommend auto electrician or outfit in Sydney (ideally near Ryde area) with experience in Multivan second battery installations?
It good to know, that you do know what you are talking about.
My experience of having to replace two alternators and having them rebuilt/rewound by auto electrician differers from your experience.
I can only go of what i learnt from my sparky at the time. but i personally think that there must be a reason why they offer bigger alternators as an option.
but like i have said i'm not a electrical engineer and as you have stated that you design and manufacturing auto electrical, so that must mean that you have a qualification in this field.
My experience of having to replace two alternators and having them rebuilt/rewound by auto electrician differers from your experience.
Hi Bryn, I occasionally come across someone who has had an alternator “burnt out”, but in almost every single case there has been a contributing factor.
The most common cause that I have come across is not cleaning the motor ( including the alternator ) after doing some serious off-roading.
But these are “one-up” situations and have nothing to do with this mythical “overloading” or “stressing” of an alternator.
I can only go of what i learnt from my sparky at the time. but i personally think that there must be a reason why they offer bigger alternators as an option.
The common reason for fitting a larger alternator, is to cater for loads greater than the existing alternator is designed to meet.
For instance, quite a few companies I deal with have service vehicles, equipped with large 12v to 240vac inverters, up to 2,700w, to run power tools, like large grinders and the likes.
These vehicles have the alternators upgraded because the standard alternator just does not have the output capacity to power such large inverters, let alone provide power for the vehicle’s own needs. A 12v to 240vac 2,700w inverter can draw over 200 amps.
This again has nothing to do with preventing “mythical overloads”. The standard alternator just does not have the capability to provide enough power to run such a large inverter.
Last edited by drivesafe; 17-02-2018, 09:06 AM.
Reason: typo
I have a 2017 T6 Multivan and want to install a Dual Battery.
I am trying to limit dis-assembly and have noticed a 6mm (approx) power wire under the passenger seat. Whilst this appears to be a junction for smaller power leads I was wondering if I could use this power wire to my dc-dc charger then ultimately to the 2nd Battery.
Firstly do most people run the power wire from the main battery through grommets/wheel wells etc?
Two- Does anybody have a wiring diagram so I can see if it is viable to run off of existing power under seat?
Surely with the factory dual battery option I have a feeling they may use this existing power wire.
Thoughts please.
( I am using a Project IDC25 and a 100AH AGM battery mounted in a box in the rear of the van. It is only to be used for powering a 40lt fridge and LED lights for a Max 2-3 days possibly with a solar top up)
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