Sam's build thread

[sambb]

keeping up with a TT RS in the corners in a ladder frame behemouth is no small thing. On the straights.... well it is a force fed half of a lambo/R8 V10. Pete doesnt believe me that you did a 1:08

edit: we need to have a drag race so I can see just what kind of power your thing has

[metalhead]

Haha, if he doesn't believe me he can check Natsoft, screenshot attached! Yeh well, excepting the Radical, the TT left me standing in the straights like no other. There was a 911 race car that's not shown on the results, full aero car on slicks, and that pulled away from me on the straights but not as quick as the TT. Everything else there that I ran on the track with, I was the one who was much quicker on the straights.

[metalhead]

On the China stuff... My bottom end is all Scat brand Chinese stuff, crank (it's even a cast crank, and I spin it to 7000rpm) and rods. Rods were very cheap, came with ARP bolts, only a few hundred for the set of 8, and as you know I don't go easy on it. Crank was around $300 for a stroker crank! But the Scat stuff has built up a good reputation, that's why I used it, I wouldn't have bought noname Chinese parts. I guess do some googling and see what sort of reputation they seem to have?

[sambb]

good to know re the build. Yes will do much research while watching F1 practice tonight.

Ok he has his proof now (I believed you) but now he'll just say you did a one lap wonder on the softs.

[metalhead]

Well, he's not totally wrong... I ran on the Nankangs all day, got down into the mid 1:09s. Chucked the AO50s on for a handful of laps just before 4 and immediately pulled out the 1:08. Big difference in tyres! I actually think with more practice I might get a high 1:07 from the AO50s.

[sambb]

I knew it. You time attacker you. Musn't be much of the softs left then. Either way thats blody quick. Did your brakes hang in there?

[metalhead]

Haha! Yep, brakes were completely fine, I didn't end up changing pads or rotors before I went down. I only ran ~15 minutes at a time, but no issues at all with the brakes, they worked great. It'll be interesting to see if the less track oriented pads can do as well.

[metalhead]

I only ended up doing 3 fast sessions in the car by myself, one mid morning and then one at ~3 and then the one at ~3:45 on the Yokos just to see what they would do. I did another 5 sessions on track with passengers (Jenna or my brother or my mate who came down for the day), and Jenna drove it a few times too, car didn't miss a beat all day. It was fun! I'll have to try and get a few laps with an instructor next time. I think I can make up a bunch of time by getting the car onto the main straight cleaner/faster. I did put 60L of fuel in the car just before the ~3pm session too - it was starving for fuel so I just brimmed the tank. So fastest times were with a full fuel load, no doubt I could go quicker running it lower.

[sambb]

Another conrod question. Forced pin oiling/rifle drilling - do I need it. It seems to be a popular option with 1.8T rods. I cant seem to find anything that says the function of the oil squirters is inadequate, the OE engines all run without forced pin oiling, yet additional pin oiling is all the rage. But when you look further it is advocated for street driven cars (to give more little end longevity they say) not for track duty cars.

[teamshaw]

Sam's build thread

Finally ground the strut domes off and got the strut brace installed [emoji3]


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[sambb]

Good stuff. What tops are those? S15 ones like Simon recommended? To border the rough edges I used a circular split foam. You could probably get it from Clark rubber.

[teamshaw]

Nah, they came with the Yellow-Speed Dynamic Pro Sport coilovers.

The foam looks clean, I’ve just got some black race tape on them at the moment. That’s probably how they will stay [emoji12]


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[sambb]

This is the difference between 19mm diameter wrist pin rods and the 20mm diameter wrist pin rods eg out of a BAM Audi S3. Diameter bigger but also the small end width too. Since the 20mm pin rods have a wider small end do you think thats why people go with forced pin oiling/rifle drilled rods as the squirters just wouldnt be able to get oil in there as easily as the 19mm pin rod which is more 'open' at the top? The big bopper rod manufacturers like Carillo dont do rifle drilled rods. they seem to all be non- force pin oiled. Based on the amount of material up there though the 20mm rods look a hell of a lot more stout. Maybe if I do go china rods going 20mm wouldnt be a bad idea just to get more material in the rod.

[HaydEn]

Bigger is always better right!

I’m sure you’d be able to pick up oem 20mm pistons cheap. They seem to be pretty strong for most applications.

I’ve seen the maxspeedingrods and such have clogged up holes out of the box. Something to check if you end up with them.


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[sambb]

I'm pretty sure I can get S3 9:1 pistons. Woud prefer to stay 9.5:1 considering that I'm going large port but I don't think it'll be a huge deal. So whats the go with OEM 20mm wrist pin S3 pistons. I assume they don't break at the pin since they are built stronger there - do they S-bend - do they handle a lot more than the OEM 19mm pin rods? Wondering if S3/TT rods will handle K03-022/23 type power if they are ARP bolted. Obviously from a question like that you can see that money is super tight.