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  • Originally posted by sambb View Post
    The Escort made 221hp atw strapped normally and a repeatable 210hp strapped hard on 98RON. 110hp atw per litre sounds pretty strong for that type of engine. They are going to do more sessions on different fuels to see whats what.
    Gary what are the rules re fuel in IPRA?
    If you can buy it from a pump at a commercial service station then it's legal, obviously this includes E85. Plus there are CAMS/FIA approved fuels Elf, Martini, Power Plus etc but no one I know uses them anymore because they give very little if any benefit and cost multiples.

    CAMS General Requirements Schedule G https://www.cams.com.au/docs/default...sn=a8f566dc_12


    BTW, no leaded fuel has been allowed since 1st July 2019.

    Cheers
    Gary
    Last edited by Sydneykid; 02-09-2019, 11:33 AM.
    Golf Mk7.5 R, Volvo S60 Polestar, Skyline R32GTST

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    • I was down there today. They are going to give the head a once over and check for me that the valves on the large port head I bought are sealing aok. Being a complete head with cams fitted and the inlet and exhaust cams tied together with the tensioner chain, some of the valves are down a bit. The head was stored on a sheet of core flue but I just want them to vacuum test it to make sure nothings bent and they are all sealing ok.

      Yep the Escort is definitely destined for IPRA. They don't seem too interested in E85 but said that they are confident there's some left in it once they decide on the fuel they'll run and then get it dialled in for that. Yeah they did mention that Avgas is outlawed I assume because of the lead in it?

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      • In other news I'm going to stick some parts up on the parts for sale board. Even if there's nothing on there for interested people, keep in mind that I've wrecked a car previously and have all sorts of spares. Many I will retain but it cant hurt to ask.

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        • Originally posted by sambb View Post
          Yep the Escort is definitely destined for IPRA. They don't seem too interested in E85 but said that they are confident there's some left in it once they decide on the fuel they'll run and then get it dialled in for that. Yeah they did mention that Avgas is outlawed I assume because of the lead in it?
          There is unleaded Avgas but it has the same problem as leaded Avgas, a slow burn rate (fires in aeroplanes etc). Which doesn't really suite a high rpm engine (eg; Cessna Lycoming or Continental engines max is 2,700 rpm). E85 has huge advantages, next to zero preignition possibilities, lower combustion temperature, lower water temp, lower oil temp, never foul plugs, run much higher compression ratios (we run over 15 to 1) as a result more torque and of course more horsepower. There is only one downside, typically an engine uses ~25% more so you need to carry more fuel at the start of a race, but by the end of the race it's back to the same carrying weight as petrol ie; not much.

          Please don't talk them into it, I'll be OK with keeping the advantage

          Cheers
          Gary
          Golf Mk7.5 R, Volvo S60 Polestar, Skyline R32GTST

          Comment


          • So stupid me thought for some reason that the strut tops in our car had asymmetric bolts which meant the tops would only fit into the tower in one orientation. Don't know why I thought that but then the penny dropped and I measured them and low and behold they are symmetrical. What a dumb ass. So after oggling it for a while I realised that if I twisted the tops into a diagonal orientation on the slider, , set them in the furthest back position that I would get way more caster yet the pivot would stay laterally more or less where it was meaning I wouldnt loose any camber. After really going through front tyres at SMSP and not getting them to work properly at a recent hillclimb where I was smashed by a competitor, I figured a change was in order.

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ID:	1850686Before & after passenger side. East/west runs across the pic. I'm facing the back.
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ID:	1850688Can see how much more angle there is in the strut and that at full droop. More accentuated at ride height.
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            Before pic shows how far forward the tyres were in the guard beforehand. This is the passenger side front of the car with the front of the car on the left. I achieved that with adjustable subframes and caster offset rear LCA bushes. The after pic shows that now adding extra caster at the top too has pulled the wheel back in the guard a little more which is better for guard clearance with the track tyres.
            I lost about 1/4 - 1/2 a degree of neg camber doing this. However I do have a small amount of movement in the front of the subframe with the eccentrics to get maybe 8mm a side at the bottom and also my TT RS ball joints which are slotted, are currently bolted up in the middle of their range so there's 5mm left in those too which should get me back to 3 degrees if I need it but I'm not sure I will with all the caster I have now.. But I should be able to find enough in the bottom to square it all up at a good neg camber setting.
            For now I've only done a toe with my toe plates. I'll get it on a machine soon to get the front end sorted and also get rear beam toe out numbers so that I know where I'm at for an upcoming re-shim of the stub axles so that I can add more rear camber and more toe out.

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            • What did you use to cover the remnants of the strut domes? It looks neat. I’m going to attack mine with the angle grinder tomorrow before SDMA on Sunday so I can get at my damper adjustment.


              Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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              • A rule of thumb (I know you like them) caster plus camber should be minimum 10 degrees, eg 6.5 degrees of caster plus 3.5 degrees of camber = 10 degrees.


                Cheers
                Gary
                Golf Mk7.5 R, Volvo S60 Polestar, Skyline R32GTST

                Comment


                • Nice work, I'm a big believer in caster!

                  Wow, absolute minimum 10 degrees for caster plus camber? I'm at around - 2.5 camber and ~5.5 caster. Way off. I have thought that it felt to be rolling over the front tyre on faster tracks now that I have more grip. Might be worth putting a bit more caster in, I'm not sure how much I can get though. Don't think I'd want to run much more camber on the street?

                  Sam, I got down to a 1:08.3 at Wakefield yesterday.

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                  • Stay out of this Andrew. You're too quick and aren't allowed any more caster!! 1:08 jeez ...... I want another crack!

                    I had 5/1/2 degrees caster and nearly 3 degrees neg camber. Yeah I remember that rule of thumb Gary. Thats why I was hoping that if I was up around 7/1/2 degrees that I could maybe get away with a tad less camber than before and benefit from slightly more tyre on the road coming out of corners. The car is markedly different to drive so I'd say it wasn't a smidge that I added. I think it looks to be about 25mm at the top extra.

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                    • In other news I need feedback on ....gulp....china conrods. The engine shop near me said that whenever someone wants an engine built and don't want to shell out for rods (sounds like me) that they steer them towards Maxspeeding rods. Thats obviously for the budget people. They said they haven't had a failure yet. These rods come with ARP 2000's and they said they even checked the ARP serial number on the bolts that come with the rods with ARP in the states and they were legit. anyone used them in a 1.8T that wasn't 400hp plus?

                      Comment


                      • Originally posted by sambb View Post
                        In other news I need feedback on ....gulp....china conrods. The engine shop near me said that whenever someone wants an engine built and don't want to shell out for rods (sounds like me) that they steer them towards Maxspeeding rods. Thats obviously for the budget people. They said they haven't had a failure yet. These rods come with ARP 2000's and they said they even checked the ARP serial number on the bolts that come with the rods with ARP in the states and they were legit. anyone used them in a 1.8T that wasn't 400hp plus?
                        Edit never mind the guy was pushing 500hp...

                        VWVortex.com - max speeding 1.8t rods FAIL!!
                        Last edited by Sirocco20348; 06-09-2019, 04:10 PM.

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                        • I've read about those rods a bit, they have them for minis too... I just wouldn't be able to get that niggling thought out of my head that they're gonna fail one day

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                          • Originally posted by sambb View Post
                            In other news I need feedback on ....gulp....china conrods. The engine shop near me said that whenever someone wants an engine built and don't want to shell out for rods (sounds like me) that they steer them towards Maxspeeding rods. Thats obviously for the budget people. They said they haven't had a failure yet. These rods come with ARP 2000's and they said they even checked the ARP serial number on the bolts that come with the rods with ARP in the states and they were legit. anyone used them in a 1.8T that wasn't 400hp plus?
                            They are freaky cheap aren't they, they offer the upgrade to L19 rod bolts as well. I'll check around and see if anyone has used them and let you know. They are the right material 4340 and CNC machined (the only way that they could do them at those prices) so the only real test is hardness to make sure the heat treatment is as per spec. That's not difficult to have tested, then normal engine builder stuff like mic the bearing journals, overall weight and balance, all pretty easy to check.

                            Cheers
                            Gary
                            Last edited by Sydneykid; 06-09-2019, 05:05 PM.
                            Golf Mk7.5 R, Volvo S60 Polestar, Skyline R32GTST

                            Comment


                            • Yeah Scirrocco that's the review I read which scared me, but he had a GT3071R on it! The engine guys next door said they are usually within +-0.5g of each other. My Clio mate got some weighed up and they were 15g heavier per rod than Carrillo's. You literally get rods and bolts at the price of bolts nearly. Hard not to consider it.

                              Where that 500hp guy may have gone wrong is that on their site they list Golf Mk4 gti rods as having 19.9mm big end width. As far as I know that is incorrect. Our rods have a 19mm wrist pin and the S3/TT's had 20mm wrist pin diameters but as far as I know the big ends are all the same at 24.9mm wide. I asked them to clarify and they just re-stated their specs to me …. which aren't right. So I could buy their S3/TT rods which do have the correct big end dimensions but then I'd have to go to a S3/TT piston with the fatter wrist pin. I can do that but they are 9:1 and ours are 9.5:1 and if possible I'd like to stay at 9.5:1 in case I ever go the E85 route down the track but I guess its not a big deal. Its just things like that though that make you go hmm am I going to get what I order.

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                              • Originally posted by sambb View Post
                                Stay out of this Andrew. You're too quick and aren't allowed any more caster!! 1:08 jeez ...... I want another crack!
                                LOL! If it makes you feel any better, the second quickest car there (after a Radical) was a TT RS, and that thing was a monster. Ran in the 1:05s. I don't know what he'd done to it, I could basically keep up with him in the corners, but he left me for dead on the straights(!!!) much to my surprise.

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