Sam's build thread

[sambb]

that looks sick! always was my favourite matchbox car when I was a kid

[sambb]

Temporary ducting is in - well from the behind the foglight facia to the discs at least. The intakes from the facia for the ducts haven't been sorted yet. The ducting is 50mm and the proper silicon, steel ringed, fibre strung stuff. Its run on the leading edge of the control arm along the ridge where the control arm was stamped out in manufacture. Because the tubing is very tacky its actually solid as a rock tied in like it is. After tentatively placing it, I put the front tyres on sliders and went lock to lock and found that only at full lock did the lower caliper bolt kiss the tubing. So its run as close as I can get it really. If air comes directly out of the ducts it'll hit the inner hub part of the disc, some disc face and also a bit of the pad but I doubt the air will flow like that. The end of the ducting does sit deeper into the rim offset than the air that will fly past the inside of the wheel though so it may make a difference. Either way it'll be better than without.
Advice for anyone looking to do it this way, don't go bigger than 50mm. When you go to full lock if you had anything bigger than 50mm the caliper will start to displace the tubing upwards where it could possibly in a worst case scenario meet the driveshaft boot. If you happened to have a loose steel coil hanging out the front of the duct in that situation it could snare/tear the boot causing a wrap up which would be a major drama, so consider 50mm max if you want to run it this way.
The last pic shows where the curved trailing edge of the guard liner in the front part of the wheel well needs to be cut vertical with a Stanley knife so that the up and down movement of the wishbone won't saw the ducting against it. If you ran <50mm you'd probably be alright though.

[sambb]

$7 buck stormwater 90-50mm reducer from Bunnings. Test fit to get the angles right.
If you push it hard enough over the lip that's on the inside of the foglight surround, you can get it to stay put while you run two self tapers through it. Rock solid afterwards and better with some engine enamel that sticks perfectly to PVC.
Finished product. Cones down really smoothly from 100mm+ at the foglight opening to a nice tight 50mm push fit for the ducting. The ducting fits into the back of the reducer so far in that you can't actually see it from the road and you have to get down as if looking under the car before you can see the orange. Now i'll just hole saw a pair of old black thongs and i'll have a pair of blanking plates that will cover the duct inlets for when I don't need them.

[HaydEn]

Nice stuff dude!


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[sambb]

Thanks mate. The R32 any closer to appearing at Ringwood?

[metalhead]

That's neat! I might have to duck into bunnings... I got 50mm ducting too, 3" looked like it would be a lot more difficult to physically fit.

[sambb]

The only thing left to do is get some proper 50mm nickel coated clamps that are rubber lined and can be bolted down in place of the cable ties I have on the control arms. All up though standing back and looking at it, it should actually work. At Bunnings, look in the section where they have the irrigation/drainage fittings rather than the plumbing stuff - there were a few things in there that were contoured better and in the sizes needed. Another option I saw for a flush mount fitting was a plastic shower drain fitting. You could hole saw a front aparon facia, push the fitting through from the outside and then tighten the nut on the back. It had a nice curved entry and about a 60mm outlet - just wasn't going to work with my facia though.

[HaydEn]

Thanks mate. The R32 any closer to appearing at Ringwood?

Yep, finally got the engine mounts in a couple months ago.

Let us know when you’re coming up next and we’ll come along!


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[Sydneykid]

Hi Sam, I'd suggesting wrapping a piece of fly screen between the plumbing fitting and the OE duct. That will stop the larger foreign objects. Plus give the stoppers when inserted something to lean against.

Cheers
Gary

[Sydneykid]

Need to do something, have the ducting but I’m still waiting on pads. Getting brake fade after just a few laps and getting the brakes hot enough to smoke and boil the fluid after another couple seems a bit pointless.

Good points, and makes a lot of sense. If I were upgrading the brakes or building a braking system/car from scratch then I'd look to do that, but I'm hoping to avoid spending big bucks on a brake upgrade, and also avoid changing to pads that I can’t reasonably use on the street. My car could also improve on the corner speed front, and is heavy, but powerful enough to be moving pretty quickly at the end of a straight... I’ve never had a problem with the brakes in hillclimbs, or other short sprint events, but they just weren’t up to the challenge of more than a couple of laps at Wakefield. To be fair, I’ve never even changed the pads in the time I’ve owned the car (as I said, brakes have been adequate until now), so there’s no doubt some improvement to be had.

There are so many upgrade brake parts both new and used from the US for Vette's, for not a lot of money. The variety of brake pad material is never ending, again at prices that are way less than anything available locally. I wouldn't be afraid of using more track oriented pads, these days combination daily driver and track day pad compounds are quite common. Since I know them;



For combo hill climb, track day and time attack I use the Hawk Black or DTC-30 compounds which work from a bit under 35 degrees Celsius (ie; cooler than yesterday's ambient temp) to 600 degrees Celsius with pretty decent CoF's. Keeping in mind that a higher CoF means being on the brakes for less time to achieve the same retardation and less braking time = lower temperature over a lap. That's average over the lap lower temperature in the pad, caliper, rotor and fluid. Blues, Blacks and DTC-30's are a very popular Hawk compound because of their wide operating range, plus they have gentle performance drop off with over temperature, so they give plenty of feedback.

For my son's daily driver Evo (~450 bhp and street tyres) I used HPS which were OK for 5 or 6 laps at Wakefield. Now Hawk have the HP+ which would be a better choice for a majority daily driver, more like 8 to 10 laps.

There are a couple of different calipers on the C3 but roughly price wise they should be not more than $US180 for the HP+, $US210 for DTC-30 and $US250 for the Blues or DTC-50/60/70. We get around 4 shipments a year of race parts from the US and sticking a set of brake pads in the box adds about $US25 to the airfreight bill.


Cheers
Gary

[metalhead]

Thanks for the info! Not to sidetrack Sams thread too much, unfortunately I'd already ordered some Carbotech pads a few weeks ago, before reading your comments. I'm definitely not afraid of running a more track oriented pad than whatever junk is in there at the moment. The Evo is not a bad comparison, I have somewhere a bit over 500hp at the engine, about 1550-1600kg, and 295 semis on all four corners - so it is a bit of stress on the brakes. The factory brakes are 4 pot calipers and vented 298mm disks on all four corners, so they work pretty well, and should hopefully be up to the task with some good pads, fluid, and I figure some cooling can't hurt. Maybe I'm a cheapskate, but the brake upgrades seem fairly expensive to me, any sizeable upgrade seems to be more than ~2.5k for each end of the car, and any worthwhile improvement will also mean that the stock 15" wheels cannot be fitted - not the end of the world, but still a consideration.

[sambb]

Nup I love the chit chat and don't mind at all if other cars are discussed.
Thought you two might be interested that the Bathurst hillclimb weekend entries are going to be going up soon. You'll most likely need to be registered as a state competitor to be sure of a spot so step 1 is this: Championship Registration Its only like 50 bucks but gives you the best guarantee of a spot for both days.

[sambb]

read a few things and seen a few interviews where other drivers talk about how Senna used to pulsate the throttle on corner exit rather than just feeding it in cleanly. In his F1 cars as well as this NSX. Found a vid of it: YouTube

contrast that to the throttle traces of Schumacher. YouTube. You wonder if its two different styles or just what Senna needed to do in more rough diamond cars 10 years apart, to get the things to steer.

[metalhead]

I registered for the championship last week.

[sambb]

sweet!