Sai delete, issues plz help

[mk2vr6]

Hey Guys,

Carried out some of my SAI delete the other day. Removed hoses from Air pump and disconnected, plugged combo valve at both ends as i don't have my blank plug yet. At first i totally removed the two sensors, vacuum tank + lines and ran one vacuum line straight from my DV to intake manifold. Started, idles and drove ok but the boost wasn't there..

Therefore I brought it into work today and re installed everything. Scanned, had a **** load of faults, cleared them and started back up straight away all of these faults come back.




Now I DO have my boost back, car driving well but still lacking some low range RPM due to this Bank 1 Camshaft fault.. I don't get It haven't even touched the wires for this sensor.

I've checked all the wiring in those areas nothing is melted or trapped. Seems like that sort of an issue, I've also checked all of my fuses.

Any help would be greatly appreciated! Thanks!

[h100vw]

Were you following a guide?

[sambb]

I noticed you said you removed 2 sensors. Basically there are 3 output solenoids across the top of the engine. The SAI is only one of them.
The furthest one towards the passenger side is N75 which is your boost controller. It is physically positioned up behind the combi valve so I hope you didn't confuse it with being associated with the SAI system. If you did, just put it back how it was. The other 2 solenoids are located on all that black bracketry that sits on the middle/left of the rocker cover itself. One of them is the N249. It only has small diameter hoses running between it, the vacuum canister, and the DV. If you did that solenoid by accident it would throw a code but not affect car operation to the extent that you said it had. The last one is the SAI solenoid. Its easy to identify because it is linked to the combi valve itself by small diameter pipes. Hopefuly you got the right solenoid. If not just put back what you did wrong. If you did do the right solenoid then maybe you used a resistor value that was insufficient and has burnt out already or your connections have failed. In that case meter it/inspect. If all that's ok check that you insulated it all correctly after the connections were made and that it hasn't shorted against the rocker cover or burnt into some other part of the loom.

[sambb]

What resistance values did you use? Too low and may it was seen by the ecu as a short. I had my battery negative disconnected when I did mine just to be safe but maybe without that done, cutting the plugs has bridged live wires? not sure

[mk2vr6]

Thanks heaps for the support guys.

To Confirm, i didn't use any resistance values.. Didn't touch the boost controller behind the kombi valve, only the two solenoids onto of the rocker over. I disconnected and removed complete with vac tank bracketery and most of those vacuum lines. Just ran one long line from DV to intake.

Since I've re-installed everything as it was, and can't seem to clear these faults. I didn't have the battery off.. shouldn't have shorted to the ecu but anything is possible. So i didn't solder anywhere or bridge anything.just removed solenoids and reinstalled them after having driven car.

[h100vw]

Thanks heaps for the support guys.

To Confirm, i didn't use any resistance values.. Didn't touch the boost controller behind the kombi valve, only the two solenoids onto of the rocker over. I disconnected and removed complete with vac tank bracketery and most of those vacuum lines. Just ran one long line from DV to intake.

Since I've re-installed everything as it was, and can't seem to clear these faults. I didn't have the battery off.. shouldn't have shorted to the ecu but anything is possible. So i didn't solder anywhere or bridge anything.just removed solenoids and reinstalled them after having driven car.

I reckon you have blown a fuse. Have you googled the fault codes?

Gavin

[mk2vr6]

Hey Gavin, Yeah I thought the same and have checked the fuses on my drivers dash side and all the main ones are there are working. but the smaller ones are fully sealed so can't check with my test light. looking at the manual they aren't related but would you advise pulling them all out for a visual check?

I have googled codes and found a few other threads pointing towards a fuse No 8..
"Hi mate it's a 10amp fuse in the box under your steering wheel check and change simples"
"FYI Its Fuse 8, 10AMP, 8th on the bottom from the left"
However this is from a Seat Cupra, with the same engine and I don't have any fuses under the wheel and fuse 8 is for mirror heating in my car...

I will check fuses again tomorrow and wiring.. Car is driving well! Just low RPM lacking torque which is exact symptom of my code
Bank1 Camshaft Adjustment - N205 - open circuit...

[h100vw]

Check the 30A fuses in the panel over the battery.

Gavin

[mk2vr6]

Hey Gavin, checked those sneaky fuses ontop of battery. Still no luck, was praying the 30Amp one was blown. Removed them all and checked behind incase they were melted, have seen it on golfs before.

Removed my camshaft solenoid connector and didn't have any power with engine idling.. Not sure if there needs to be load on the solenoid before power get provided..

My plan from here is to get the wiring diagram and check resistance and continuity from the devices > fusebox > ECU
Can't see any melted, trapped or broken wires so moving the wiring loom ontop of the engine cover maybe has cracked the insulation on one of the wires??

What do you think mate?
Appreciate your time.

[h100vw]

Send me an email

[mk2vr6]

Hey Gavin sent you a few emails, wasn't sure if you'd received them as my sent items is empty? Thanks

[h100vw]

Hey Gavin sent you a few emails, wasn't sure if you'd received them as my sent items is empty? Thanks

I replied to your emails Jake. Included the wiring diagram for the ECU.

Did you see that? Spam filter maybe, hotmail defending against gmail?

Gavin

[noone]

have a look at the wiring around the connectors, they can get brittle with age.

you could plug in all the bypassed junk to see if that is the problem, if that fixes it, get the CC tune to bypass these modules.

I always threw codes with APR (using resistors, etc), CC fixed those persistent codes / issues.