Ross-tech Bleeding Issue 9N3

[Blue Shell]

Hey guys,

SO I have an issue with my 9n3, the pedal is soft after working on the brakes and I have gone to the great expense of acquiring a Ross-Tech cable and doing a bleed through my laptop.

The problem is when I go into the procedure, I get an error message in Block 002.

This is a major annoyance as this was the primary function I was after.

Any advice is greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance.

[nightphotographer]

I know you're asking for advice directly related to the VCDS bleeding - but have you rotated the caliper 180 degrees when bleeding? That was the mistake I made and why I could never bleed my 9N3 brakes by myself. Apologies if it was obvious to you, but I completely overlooked it and had to drive to the shop with no brakes (luckily only 3 blocks and I stayed in first and used the handbrake haha!)

[h100vw]

What's the error say? Using this procedure? Ross-Tech: VAG-COM: ABS Brake Pump Bleeding Did you allow air into the system, what jobs have you done on the brakes?

New calipers or what?

Gavin

EDIT tried my Polo, same deal get an error too.

Look in output tests, you can run the pump and also cycle all the valves to check them at the wheel. Follow the on screen prompts, press pedal etc wheel free, wheel locked.

Maybe that will help?

[Blue Shell]

So I just replaced the discs and pads all round. I have tried the output tests but to no avail. I can hear the pump applying pressure to the corresponding caliper but nothing comes from the nipple.

To my understanding the output test would only use a minimal amount of fluid and not constantly bleed out.

Also I'm not sure what you mean by rotating the caliper?

[h100vw]

So I just replaced the discs and pads all round. I have tried the output tests but to no avail. I can hear the pump applying pressure to the corresponding caliper but nothing comes from the nipple.

To my understanding the output test would only use a minimal amount of fluid and not constantly bleed out.

Also I'm not sure what you mean by rotating the caliper?

Will fluid come out under gravity if you leave a minute or with a bit of pedal pressure? or is the bleed nipple blocked due to not having had a cap on it? In which case it needs cleaning out.

Did you reset the rear calipers so the cut outs in the pistons are horizontal?

gavin

[Jmac]

Plenty written on here about bleeding Polos, by myself and others, there is a totally different method to bleed them. Not like the conventional furthest to master back. If you opened it up you must follow it or you will be chasing your tail.
Jmac

[Stuwey]

Did you reset the rear calipers so the cut outs in the pistons are horizontal?

gavin

Wait, what?

[Transporter]

To change the brake fluid or bleed the air from the VAG brake system, you need equipment similar to this one.



The cheap pressurised garden sprayer style ones, that people buy for cheap, just introduce moisture in the brake system and microscopic bubbles, don't use them. You wouldn't maintain the same level of safety that your Polo (any car) was built with.

[Blue Shell]

So I went through the output test and it felt better. But not factory better.

I must elaborate, my front right brake is squealing and everytime I press the pedal I hear a wretching sound sort of hard to explain but it sounds as if it's realeasing suction or something.

The pedal was not applying brakes as soon as it touched but now it is.
I would really like to avoid getting a shop to bleed it as I've already gone to the expense of the dumb Ross tech cable that doesn't even work.
But as a last resort how much would I be looking at?

[noone]

The computer bleed is for the ABS module from what I understand, its not going to fix air in the lines / not being bled properly.

[Blue Shell]

Yeah I'm aware of the different systems. There is an option for brake bleeding but it comes up with an error. May just have to take it to a shop.

[Umai Naa!!]

Sounds like you've over-complicated a relatively simple task.

You don't need to open the hydraulic system to change pads or rotors. You just push the piston back, fit the new rotor and pads, reassemble, pump the pedal, and repeat on the other three corners.

In some instances, you may overflow the reservoir, but you can always wash it down with water when you're done.

[Transporter]

+1 what he said.

[Catfish]

Plenty written on here about bleeding Polos, by myself and others, there is a totally different method to bleed them. Not like the conventional furthest to master back. If you opened it up you must follow it or you will be chasing your tail.
Jmac

I'm confused about this.

Are you saying that even if you're just changing the fluid, but not breaking the lines, you shouldn't use the standard left rear/right rear/left front/right front/clutch bleeding sequence? If not, why not for Polos?

Cheers.

[Blue Shell]

Yeah I wish it was that simple, I have gone through that process and the opposite way more times than I can care.
I feel that doing this is not helping the situation and I can't comprehend fluid coming from the calliper with no bubbles and the pedal retaining it's spongy composure.