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max boost, chip & unchip

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  • #16
    Originally posted by SoVeReIgN View Post
    9. LSD
    10. FMIC
    11. K04
    12. GT28XX
    Ah yes, forgot about the LSD, a must have eventually.... that EBL thingy is rubbish.

    Not so sure i I'll go down the GT28 route. It means new manifold and different plumping to downpipe, oil feed etc, and a remap of the chip.....
    Current: 2023 MY23 T-Roc R Lapiz Blue + Beats Audio + Black pack 2018 MY19 Golf R manual Lapiz Blue + DAP) 2014 Amarok TSI Red (tuned over 200kw + lots of extras) 2013 Up! manual Red 2017 Polo GTI manual Black Previous VWs and some others ...

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    • #17
      Originally posted by Sharkie View Post
      Ah yes, forgot about the LSD, a must have eventually.... that EBL thingy is rubbish.

      Not so sure i I'll go down the GT28 route. It means new manifold and different plumping to downpipe, oil feed etc, and a remap of the chip.....
      True, but the Ko4 doesn't give the % increase on the polo 1.8t as it did on the mk4 golf. (Because the polo runs a better turbo stock).

      If I was going to the trouble of installing a new turbo, i'd want to make sure it was worth it

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      • #18
        Originally posted by Sharkie View Post
        No, chip 1st before anything else..... then later start with the brakes and handling.
        The std set up will probably cope with a flash, sure - but it will amplify the limitations of the stock pog. I wouldn't recommend a power upgrade directly after the flash, better to go brakes/handling, then more power if needed. Personally, I coped ok with the flash and std set up for a while, but as soon as I bolted on a FMIC, the car was completely out-of-whack!

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        • #19


          Polo GTI 144 @ the wheels (Giac)
          What’s behind you doesn’t matter..

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          • #20
            Ditto re APR ECU being fine as first thing to do without any further mods. ECU + air intake was even nicer.

            Having said that, tyres was a great upgrade after this (F1 GSD3) - much more traction than the stocks (in the state they were in).

            Rear sway bar and brake pads will be nice for track but not strictly needed for normal driving. Having said that the stronger turn in seems to befit the power upgrade nicely, feels more composed but also you need to be more aware of what the vehicle is doing as understeer is not guaranteed anymore. Personally I love being able to steer with the throttle.

            My setup

            0) Stock Polo GTI
            1) APR ECU
            2) Seat Air Intake
            3) Eagle F1 DS-D3s
            4) GT Suspension's recommended Sway bar on medium setting
            5) RaceBrakes.com.au Ferodo 2500s with Motul 600 fluid on the fronts, stock pads on the rear

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            • #21
              The K04's attraction is bolt-on to what is there at the moment. Worth about 25kw ATW.

              You can have a K04 (brand new) landed from the USA for AU$1200. APR upgrade to software then only AU$599. A bit cheaper than APR's upgrade kit. They should charge less for us poor Pogo owners.....
              Current: 2023 MY23 T-Roc R Lapiz Blue + Beats Audio + Black pack 2018 MY19 Golf R manual Lapiz Blue + DAP) 2014 Amarok TSI Red (tuned over 200kw + lots of extras) 2013 Up! manual Red 2017 Polo GTI manual Black Previous VWs and some others ...

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              • #22
                Originally posted by 1DUB2C View Post
                just remove the 2 hoses goin into n75 n connect up to boost controller. i bumped up d boost to 11psi and feels heaps better. but now i am chipped but still use a mbc @ 16psi.
                So... Let me get this straight...

                You unhook the 2 hoses going into and out of the N75 valve and connect the boost controller.. but you leave the N75 loom plug connected. Does this N75 valve feedback to the ECU at all?? Are any check engine lights thrown??

                I know these engines run rich from the factory so if you fitted a controller, ran sensible boost and checked A/F conditions on a dyno to make sure everything was ok you should be fine...

                I think someone (me?) should invetigate this method - I don't think too many people in Oz ahve tried this with the 1.8T (from my google research anyway!!)

                '06 Polo GTi - Candy White / Custom Leather / Looking for Dish!!!

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                • #23
                  Originally posted by Sharkie View Post
                  The K04's attraction is bolt-on to what is there at the moment. Worth about 25kw ATW.

                  You can have a K04 (brand new) landed from the USA for AU$1200. APR upgrade to software then only AU$599. A bit cheaper than APR's upgrade kit. They should charge less for us poor Pogo owners.....
                  + injectors + clutch + LSD.

                  Guy, can you confirm what yours makes on the dyno atw?

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                  • #24
                    Originally posted by Spec83 View Post
                    So... Let me get this straight...

                    You unhook the 2 hoses going into and out of the N75 valve and connect the boost controller.. but you leave the N75 loom plug connected. Does this N75 valve feedback to the ECU at all?? Are any check engine lights thrown??

                    I know these engines run rich from the factory so if you fitted a controller, ran sensible boost and checked A/F conditions on a dyno to make sure everything was ok you should be fine...

                    I think someone (me?) should invetigate this method - I don't think too many people in Oz ahve tried this with the 1.8T (from my google research anyway!!)
                    It wouldn't be wise pushing it with the MBC too much as you can hit limp mode, cause the wrong fuel mixtures etc if its not done right. Your best off saving and just getting a chip/flash!

                    http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=1353789 might help
                    http://www.boostvalve.com/1.8.html (most useful)
                    What’s behind you doesn’t matter..

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                    • #25
                      Originally posted by Flaps View Post
                      + injectors + clutch + LSD.
                      ..you forgot fuel pump, possibly high-flow manifold, not to mention the rest. ..might make more sense to buy a more highly-spec'd car that has that stuff standard

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                      • #26
                        Originally posted by Spec83 View Post
                        So... Let me get this straight...

                        You unhook the 2 hoses going into and out of the N75 valve and connect the boost controller.. but you leave the N75 loom plug connected. Does this N75 valve feedback to the ECU at all?? Are any check engine lights thrown??

                        I know these engines run rich from the factory so if you fitted a controller, ran sensible boost and checked A/F conditions on a dyno to make sure everything was ok you should be fine...

                        I think someone (me?) should invetigate this method - I don't think too many people in Oz ahve tried this with the 1.8T (from my google research anyway!!)
                        Hmmm ... like Pierre says, Mark ... I'd advise caution.

                        Dave

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                        • #27
                          what would the max psi a k03 could handle with mods..
                          Passat 1.8T K04 | Audi A3 1.8T | Bora 4Motion

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                          • #28
                            Originally posted by 1DUB2C View Post
                            what would the max psi a k03 could handle with mods..
                            Ray ... why don't you and Kai find out for us?

                            Dave

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                            • #29
                              Originally posted by 1DUB2C View Post
                              what would the max psi a k03 could handle with mods..
                              Mine'll do 22~23psi and is happy.

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                              • #30
                                The K03 struggles to hold more then 1.3 bar in higher gears/revs = 19-20psi

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