SAI / 249 Bypass - guide

[clicht]

Well, CEL came on today... have to scan it, but I'm guessing its the incorrect flow message.

Cant figure why, but the cars that seem to have success with this are not running APR?

Wonder if it would be easy for Guy to code it out...

haha, it had to happen....
Mine came on about 4 weeks ago
Let me know if Guy contacts you.

[s4mmie]

I've been thinking this too.. surely Guy could code it out.
I think Revo/Unitronic(?) code it out of theirs...

[Catfish]

Well, CEL came on today...

Same here. Could it be the 300 ohm SAI pump resistor from IE (the bare one) is inadequate, as suggested above? Should we try a 10W x 350 or 400 ohms (both on ebay) and see what happens.

Whatya think?

[leitch]

I am now running two resistors in series from Jaycar totalling about 650ohm from memories and haven't had the CEL return. I think the one specced by IE is just not enough by itself.

[noone]

Given the code is for flow, I assume it's to do with that...

[Paulbag]

Great tutorial!

Any other vacuums which can be removed?

[s4mmie]

Would disconnecting and capping the SAI, combi valve, n249 and n112 but leaving them in place be ok? I figure it would be the same as resistoring them out, they're just still there.. I've done this and the missers just threw a CEL this morning. I haven't had a chance to read it yet but I presume it should just be for the incorrect flow?

[noone]

yeah, I've not found a solution on my car. Throws a cell.

If anyone has thrown this cell and can do a scan (Vag-com), ot would be valuable to send through to Guy (then they can investigate coding out).

I've been meaning to do this, but have recently changed to Win 7 64bit machine and it does not like me anymore...

The only reliable solution I know of is coding out, others are hit / miss depending on tune, etc.

[h100vw]

Would disconnecting and capping the SAI, combi valve, n249 and n112 but leaving them in place be ok? I figure it would be the same as resistoring them out, they're just still there.. I've done this and the missers just threw a CEL this morning. I haven't had a chance to read it yet but I presume it should just be for the incorrect flow?

Did that on the S3 Sam, although I pulled the air pump off for better access to the oil filter. The 249 is out of circuit and the 112 is linked out. You can have a look at the weekend if you like.

Gavin

[clicht]

When I changed my battery, it cleared the CEL...been a while, and no CEL haha

[s4mmie]

Thanks Gav, i'll have a peek.

I was giving it a bit of thought.. how is the flow measured? The problem comes from 'insufficient flow' detected. What's detecting it?
I'm not great with electrical but I assume the pump draws a specific amount when pumping air through.. is it the electrical draw that's measured? I don't think that's how it works as I still have the pump pumping away and it still throws a code..

The only other thing I can think is that the ECU is hard programmed to expect more air on cold-starts.. in that case no combination of resistors will fix that. Saying that, others are fine, no CEL's. Bah!

[s4mmie]

Anyone had any trouble bleeding the air from the coolant once it's topped up? I've just finished the deleting the combi valve and I can't get any got air from my heater... seems like it hasn't bled properly. Is there a bleeding point other than the coolant ball?

[h100vw]

Anyone had any trouble bleeding the air from the coolant once it's topped up? I've just finished the deleting the combi valve and I can't get any got air from my heater... seems like it hasn't bled properly. Is there a bleeding point other than the coolant ball?

That Polo I just got was the same, You need to drive it a little I reckon. Then let it cool before topping up.

I just revved the engine in the garage and topped up an hour later but I think a drive would be better.

Gavin

[s4mmie]

Yep all good now. Thanks Gav. I thought as much, but you never can trust these Germans...
Zere ist bleeda screwz vich are hidden in many locations und must be undone or zee hole zing go boom!

In keeping with this thread I noticed a few other lines..
There's a line that comes from the inlet manifold and splits off into a Y piece. One then goes to the brake booster. The other goes to the TIP with what looks like a one way valve. What's the point of this valve? Can I just run a hose straight to the brake booster and get rid of the Y piece and one way valve in the TIP. I'm trying to get rid of a couple of hard lines messing up the place.

They can be seen here --

[kaanage]

To maintain the brake booster vacuum when the diverter valve is in operation?

Random speculation...