SAI / 249 Bypass - guide

[s4mmie]

Yeah I dunno hey... most emissions delete's I've seen disconnect it and just run a line straight to the booster.

Just thought I'd add that I recently got sick of waiting for my resistors (2 months!) and popped over to Jaycar.
If you go down this route you'll need 1W x 330Ohm for each of the solenoids (N249, N112, etc) and I'd recommend a 10W x 400Ohm or more for the SAI pump.

I just bent the connectors and pushed them into the connectors and taped them up, no need for spade terminals, etc. Cost me all of $2.

Before I put the 470Ohm resistor in the pump I would get a CEL the next day after clearing. 2 days on now and no CEL, touch wood.

[VWindahouse]

In addition to what Sam said I'm up to 20000kms now with no CEL.

This is a cut and paste of mine from another thread regarding this;

Hey mate in regards to the CEL, I remember now what I did to erase the issue once and for all. I threw a code at about 500kms after the delete because I stupidly bought 1 oval and 1 square resistor so had to go to Jaycar to get one of the bare resistors (like the one IE sell for the SAI pump) to go on while I waited for a another round one.

He didn't have a 330 ohm resister so he piggybacked 2 smaller ones which gave a total resistance of about 400 ohms from memory (or maybe a little less) anyway it seems 330 is too little and will through a code. But a bit more resistance does the trick and I have not had a CEL for over 15,000kms

[Jmac]

On top of all that i agree you dont have to wait for the IE ones , granted the valve ones are very tidy. On the SAI pump i find to make it very tidy is to cut the actual plug off the pump ( you are chucking the piece of sh1 away anyway) and tidily solder the resistors onto that plug then simply plug it into the engine bay loom, way better than what ive seen , sorry dont like just sticking male spades into connectors, its untidy for me anyway but most kjnow of my OCD lol. i would rather it look like its meant to be there.
Thats my take , each to their own, its your car. By the way not in any way being negative here just merely giving a tip and my take
Cheers guys
Jmac
ps next one i do ill take a pic, which will be in the next couple of days anyway.

[Paulbag]

Going to delete my PVC system at the weekend. Along with moving some other vacuum pipes, going to be a trial and error process. I'l keep you posted

[GTiPilot]

Just went through with the delete today

Yet to drive it but will let everyone know how it goes and if I throw a code.

The stuff ontop (#1 & #3) is simple. I tried to put the blanking plate ontop of the vertical shaft rather than loosing coolant - took almost 2 hours fiddling to get the combi valve unbolted only to find the bolt spacing is different (IE Blockoff Plate) and so had to unbold from below anyway!

I found I didn't need to take off the coolant attachment, just loosened the two nuts ever so slightly and could then get in to the upper bolt of the combi valve shaft.

Its all connected back up, still have to do the SAI pump resistor, will probably go down Jmac's recommendation just above and heatshrink it all.

[noone]

Cool. Don't be surprised if it throws a code with resistors.

[DUB80Y]

Hi All

Could someone please clarify, this is a tidy the engine vs a performance mod?

Sorry for the nub question

~graham

[h100vw]

Hi All

Could someone please clarify, this is a tidy the engine vs a performance mod?

Sorry for the nub question

~graham

This is a don't spend $700 on a new air pump mod. However, you will need get a fault code come up if you don't have a tune specifically to cancel it.

The ECU knows it has requested the pump to switch on, but doesn't see the expected change in the exhaust.

I have some blanks for $20 delivered, which can use the standard bolts. This removes the combi valve tower and goes on the side of the head.

[Adam]

Reading through the past posts, is the culprit the combi valve? My car is developing the issue but not to the point of throwing codes. I am looking at options to fix/remove it. Unfortunately, GIAC don't do a code to remove it the SAI. I can get the parts from O/S for the pump and combi valve for about 750 at the moment. Either way, it's quite expensive.

[noone]

SAI / 249 Bypass - guide

Mine is low ks, happy to sell to keep you moving.

[s4mmie]

Personal opinion, just delete it and run with the code.. I've been looking at the stupid light for over a year now, no dramas. I just check the codes every service to be sure.

[noone]

I did for awhile, hated the light. Always made me wonder if there was something else wrong that I wouldn't know about.

[Adam]

I did for awhile, hated the light.

I am the same. I am a bit OCD with warning lights on the dash. What did you do with yours noone?

[dubstar]

This weekend I added the SAI back onto the car. Got sick of the error light.

I actually went with the Mk4 Golf SAI pump as it can be rebuilt if it fails in the future. I just made up some little rubber spacers and away she went.

I also checked the combi valve using a vacuum pump.

My Seatofthepantsometer says the car is running smoother after the re-fit, but can't verify that.

[h100vw]

I am the same. I am a bit OCD with warning lights on the dash. What did you do with yours noone?

Custom-Code tuned with the no code.

Gavin