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  • #16
    Originally posted by DeanB View Post
    With E85 (any Ethanol fuel blend imo) you are opening a can of worms and I can't see it being worth it. Also, E85 is only about 94 Octane, so it isn't the greatest fuel for performance, so I can see why you'd need to pump more in to get power.

    100 RON or higher here would make me happy.
    I think you'll find a LOT of turbo/import people in the drag scene use E85 for its performance qualities (once you tune the car for the fuel).

    Hell, have a look at the video HPF did to test various fuel types: Episode 10 Now Online – The Fuel Test | OzGarage

    Octane isn't everything, the temperature and speed of the burn are more important... and this is where E85 blitzes normal fuels, particularly in the burn temperature stakes.

    It's much the same reason methanol is used in racing... it's not because of the octane, its purely because of the burn temperature.
    Previous Rides: Polo GTI, Mx5 10AE, MY05 WRX WRP10, Renault Sport Clio 172
    Current Ride: Evo 8 MR, Fabia MK3

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    • #17
      Originally posted by noone View Post

      Is it just me, or are the numbers pulled in Aus lower or the dyno's reading lower? Always seems like stock numbers are a little lower here... Could just be my poor kw-hp conversion in my mind.
      The whp figures used on AUS dyno's (Mainline / Dyno Dynamics) always read lower than US based dyno's (dynojet & Mustang) - Dynapack ones read pretty much the same around the world - as long as you look at uncorrected data, not SAE or DIN corrected data.

      Maha & Bosch dyno's read similar to Mainline when using SAE corrected wheel number, but the crank correction is Waaaaay different!
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      • #18
        Maybe noone should re name the thrread "How much power can a K03 make for a very short time" - or "Hand grenade tune!"
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        • #20
          Nice!

          Whilst I'm not interested in running stupid boost, I do find it interesting how the different tunes get their power. I think its fair to say that I don't know enough to be able to compare tunes other than with my butt-feel, but I think there is quite a difference between how the power is mapped.

          I'm seeing some tunes hit psi's in the early 20's whilst the APR seems to top out at about 17 (no spiking logged with Vag-com).

          I'm pretty confident with the FMIC and other mods I've done that the setup should be able to handle more than 17psi reliably... Just have to decide on which of the paths I'm going down (Garret or retune).

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          • #21
            Originally posted by noone View Post
            I'm seeing some tunes hit psi's in the early 20's whilst the APR seems to top out at about 17 (no spiking logged with Vag-com)
            My APR V1 tune on the Pog spiked to 21PSI (I ran a boost gauge) and leveled at 16PSI sustained once I spent some time tuning the Forge diverter .... pre diverter tune it settled at 14PSI sustained ....
            Current: 2023 MY23 T-Roc R Lapiz Blue + Beats Audio + Black pack 2018 MY19 Golf R manual Lapiz Blue + DAP) 2014 Amarok TSI Red (tuned over 200kw + lots of extras) 2013 Up! manual Red 2017 Polo GTI manual Black Previous VWs and some others ...

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            • #22
              Originally posted by noone View Post
              Whilst I'm not interested in running stupid boost, I do find it interesting how the different tunes get their power. I think its fair to say that I don't know enough to be able to compare tunes other than with my butt-feel, but I think there is quite a difference between how the power is mapped.

              I'm seeing some tunes hit psi's in the early 20's whilst the APR seems to top out at about 17 (no spiking logged with Vag-com).

              I'm pretty confident with the FMIC and other mods I've done that the setup should be able to handle more than 17psi reliably... Just have to decide on which of the paths I'm going down (Garret or retune).
              17psi reliably can be done without any supporting mods, hence why APR package it as exactly that. Any mods would improve power, intercooler would help provide more consistent power on hot days, but nothing would really impact reliability (besides the basics like oil, filters, plugs)

              As for other tunes, I know my GIAC will hold 20-21psi for ~500rpm before gradually tapering down through the revs. By my normal shift points when driving fast of ~5,000rpm I'm still holding 14-15psi (mind you, this is during 'normal' weather... hot days the car will drop boost and timing significantly).

              In every tune I've seen (and felt by being passenger) for the 1.8T's, the theme is the same... straight up to 17-21psi at ~2,700rpm... then taper that off to ~10-12psi by redline. Max torque being around the 3000rpm, and being a VERY large peak of torque.
              Last edited by break; 14-04-2010, 12:00 PM.
              Previous Rides: Polo GTI, Mx5 10AE, MY05 WRX WRP10, Renault Sport Clio 172
              Current Ride: Evo 8 MR, Fabia MK3

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              • #23
                There are certain intercoolers on the market that have cut 3 - 5 psi of boost off what the K03 & K04 's can make ( have a couple of customers that have experienced that) - Always look at the shape & size of the torque curve, thats what the main focus should be!
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                • #24
                  a flat torque curve is what i'm after

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