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  • Max K03 Tune

    I'm interested in finding out what Stage 2 tunes or tune options there are for the standard K03s in out little Pog's.

    Whilst I'm looking at the BT route, I'm also looking at tunes for the K03 that some may call a Stage 2 tune.

    Gav has expressed that CC can do me a tune, are there other tuning alternatives out there?

    ---------------

    On a more technical note, is there a simple way to understand what the tune may look at doing for me? Is this simply a change in the boost and bringing forward the ignition timing?

  • #2
    Stage 2 would just be to take advantage of a TBE, FMIC no? I've seen a few dynos with these mods at about 135-140 fwkw.

    Either way, the K03 is teeny tiny and can only flow so much.

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    • #3
      I will be able to answer that question for sure after April 10

      Just some general info - Stage 1 CC netted Shane 131kw ATW.

      Comment


      • #4
        Stage 1, REVO ECU.
        This is as you can see, in Auckland warm weather, no fan over intercooler, being tested as a first roller on dyno, and small fan over radiator only.

        My first dyno was 135.6kw then second falls right down to 130kw. I believe, at decent temperature with large fan over intercooler, and not much rolling on dyno prior, will net me 140kw.



        I am waiting for Stage 2 REVO in May.
        06 Polo GTI - REVO Stage 2 = 140kw @ wheels.
        06 Golf GTI - Bluefin Stage 1 blacked out with ED30 theme, leather, xenon, etc.

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        • #5
          i know alot of people on a seat forum who have ibiza's (same as polo)
          all with K03s turbo's also.
          most of them get between 215Hp(lower) to 235Hp on fly.
          and a handfull of them reach even more, highest i seen so far was 254Hp and 390nM.
          normally if you have exhaust, Fmic, airfilter you should be able to reach 225 - 235Hp and 340 - 380nM.

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          • #6
            The local Revo dealer told me that with Stage 2 - they can reach about 240-250bhp. extra hardware needed - exhaust, 4 bar fpr, BMC CDA air filter.

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            • #7
              true, but those are realy the highest figures that can be reached.
              the extra hardware is a must, with only remap you end up with 190-215Hp max.

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              • #8
                Originally posted by RoSonic View Post
                The local Revo dealer told me that with Stage 2 - they can reach about 240-250bhp. extra hardware needed - exhaust, 4 bar fpr, BMC CDA air filter.
                Yes, I think any filter upgrade is fine. I have instead PD160 intake + K&N flat panel filter now. 4 bar FPR check, exhaust check.

                I am thinking this is just advancing the timing and fueling to get 240-250hp. From my calculations my car setup is doing about 230hp at the engine (20% loss to wheels).

                My major concern before going to Stage 2 is 'reliability', how reliable would it be at Stage 2. Will I definitely see the improvement. Power wise it's already quite powerful, and stage 2 only costs around $150NZ. It's about 250km away from where I live, and I am keen to drive there, but if I have any problems I will be in trouble to get it sorted out...

                Would be keen to run K03s at max with 'reliability'. Very happy with power now, but you know us... always wanting that little extra.
                06 Polo GTI - REVO Stage 2 = 140kw @ wheels.
                06 Golf GTI - Bluefin Stage 1 blacked out with ED30 theme, leather, xenon, etc.

                Comment


                • #9
                  Exactly my sentiments.

                  I've done all the groundwork for the next step, but its hard to know which way to go.

                  Is it just me, or are the numbers pulled in Aus lower or the dyno's reading lower? Always seems like stock numbers are a little lower here... Could just be my poor kw-hp conversion in my mind.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by noone View Post
                    Is it just me, or are the numbers pulled in Aus lower or the dyno's reading lower? Always seems like stock numbers are a little lower here... Could just be my poor kw-hp conversion in my mind.
                    It's difficult to tell, but then I don't think there are many REVO tunes in Oz. Torque Performance in Auckland is renowned to produce reasonably accurate wheel KW readings. I think Holden Astra Turbo with slight tune made 140kw at wheels that same day. Given that he has 177kw at engine already, it's quite achievable with some tune. Visit the link of dyno that I had that day, and click on the cars that were dynoed that day. It will give you an idea of what other cars pulled the same day. They all have mods.

                    For me, I don't want to go to FMIC or any other things... power wise I think i am going to leave it (once Stage 2). I do want LSD in the future though, and blistein shocks in the future once my factory ones give.

                    My car seems to higher boost than APR (22.3psi on peak) and that could be why my car seems to have a slightly high figure, and also I have ECS lightened clutch kit. So given that day with small fan over the radiator only and heat soak (I was the first one to be on roller to get the settings correct and a few runs), 135.6kw is more close to 140kw at wheels. My second run was already down to 130kw at wheels, lost almost 6kw over one run, then had 2nd run straight away.

                    The car does pull crazy amount of torque, and I can easily get torque steer upto 3rd gear in dry with Sport Maxx.

                    But at the end of the day, the car needs to be reliable... do I want to risk it for extra 10-15hp?
                    06 Polo GTI - REVO Stage 2 = 140kw @ wheels.
                    06 Golf GTI - Bluefin Stage 1 blacked out with ED30 theme, leather, xenon, etc.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Originally posted by noone View Post
                      Is it just me, or are the numbers pulled in Aus lower or the dyno's reading lower? Always seems like stock numbers are a little lower here... Could just be my poor kw-hp conversion in my mind.
                      We can't compare our tunes to the euro tuners most of the time.

                      They are happy to push the limits a little more on the knowledge that the climate will always be cooler and heat related issues won't be as big of a problem. Look at the drag racing scene, for a long time most of the 4cylinder/rotary records were held by South American tuners simply because the location of the tracks in relation to the elevation, climate, and the number of trees in the area supplying oxygen.

                      At 20psi on our K03s we are already way up the end of the efficiency range of our turbos, it very quickly gets to a point where there is simply no benefit to add any more boost due to the extra heat being added negating the addition of the boost in the first place.

                      Either way, my opinion is still that if you're looking to spend the cash for a max K03s tune, then it would yield better results for similar cash by opting to go for a bigger turbo instead.
                      Last edited by break; 13-04-2010, 03:09 PM.
                      Previous Rides: Polo GTI, Mx5 10AE, MY05 WRX WRP10, Renault Sport Clio 172
                      Current Ride: Evo 8 MR, Fabia MK3

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Differences in fuel between here and Europe will make a bit of a difference as well ... 98 RON maximum is rubbish

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Originally posted by DeanB View Post
                          Differences in fuel between here and Europe will make a bit of a difference as well ... 98 RON maximum is rubbish
                          Most of Europe only have 97/98 octane... with only a select few places at 100/102 ron.

                          Either way, if you want big power from a turbo you're better off with E85 (so long as you have the fuel delivery systems to accomodate the extra ~30% flow rate needed)
                          Previous Rides: Polo GTI, Mx5 10AE, MY05 WRX WRP10, Renault Sport Clio 172
                          Current Ride: Evo 8 MR, Fabia MK3

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Originally posted by break View Post
                            Most of Europe only have 97/98 octane... with only a select few places at 100/102 ron.

                            Either way, if you want big power from a turbo you're better off with E85 (so long as you have the fuel delivery systems to accomodate the extra ~30% flow rate needed)
                            With E85 (any Ethanol fuel blend imo) you are opening a can of worms and I can't see it being worth it. Also, E85 is only about 94 Octane, so it isn't the greatest fuel for performance, so I can see why you'd need to pump more in to get power.

                            100 RON or higher here would make me happy.

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              the reason HP figures are lower in australia might have somting to do with the heat.
                              it's a warm country and a stock IC can hold power long.
                              so you guys probably have heatsoak right away.
                              and it's a common fact that when it's hot, Hp will be lower then when it's colder.
                              also sea-level has invluence on HP-output.

                              about the reliability, it's nice to have 10 - 20Hp more then you have now.
                              is it worth it?
                              i think so...
                              it all comes to how you drive the car also.
                              if you go to the red zone and rev limiter, shift like a maniac and use the power every single day, you should not go to the max. capacity of the turbo.
                              you will only end up destroying it.
                              if you drive it with a bit of common sence, it should be allright.
                              allways drive easy when the engine is cold.
                              install a oil temp gauge to know when the oil is at temp. (important)
                              if you do this it's hard to break the turbo or engine.
                              but it's normal for when you ask more from the turbo, you will ask more from his reliability.
                              life span is in your own hands most of the time

                              but if the turbo comes to an end, it's a good time to go for a K04-001 :p
                              Last edited by instigator; 13-04-2010, 09:13 PM.

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