APR ECU Version 2.0 loaded...!

[Guy_H]

Guy, Current version as in V2? Or are we at V a million now?


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Depends on ECU part number but I'm pretty sure v2.0 is current

[Blue9N3]

I seem to be losing power over time, resetting the tune (going to standard and then back to the 98 tune) seems to fix the problem. Am I imagining the loss of power or is it really happening?? No missing/ CEL / anything.

Checked the receipts and I have v2


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[h100vw]

[QUOTE=Blue9N3;1125505]I seem to be losing power over time, resetting the tune (going to standard and then back to the 98 tune) seems to fix the problem. Am I imagining the loss of power or is it really happening?? No missing/ CEL / anything.

Checked the receipts and I have v2


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Have it scanned for faults and check the fuel trims.

Gavin

[kaanage]

I seem to be losing power over time, resetting the tune (going to standard and then back to the 98 tune) seems to fix the problem. Am I imagining the loss of power or is it really happening?? No missing/ CEL / anything.

Ben (noone) had the same impression

[noone]

As did Bfeboi (years ago). At the 1 dyno day we went to, he pulled a lot more torque than I did. He reset his before the dyno, I hadn't.

The solution; Custom Code. It sucks to pay for something twice, but its cheap for what you get and is a noticeable upgrade from APR with the mods I had.

FYI, V2 is not stage 2, from memory there was a second version of the stage 1, their other option was to bypass the 02 sensor for an upgraded exhaust, but not a re-tune to suit.

APR make good tunes, but the tune for the Polo was conservative (IMO) for how strong the 1.8T and K03 can be. with a dump pipe, upgraded intake section and FMIC, CC is your best bet.

Also, Gav is very good to deal with, so support is just easy.

If I was in QLD, he would have tuned my S3.

[Blue9N3]

APR ECU Version 2.0 loaded...!

Gav,

No codes, fuel trim at -2.3% (same since reset), timing goes to +35 and the drops back to ~5 at full boost?

Noone, you're probably right but I am curious to see what is causing the loss of power, is it an apr thing or Is something wrong with my car? Ie misfire, bad fuel pump .. Or am I just imagining it all!

Hoping that GuyH could shed some light here.


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[h100vw]

You should take a set of logs before and after a reset. You'll have something to compare then. Timing is always retarded during boost so the numbers don't mean much in isolation.

Gavin

[Guy_H]

Gav,

No codes, fuel trim at -2.3% (same since reset), timing goes to +35 and the drops back to ~5 at full boost?

Noone, you're probably right but I am curious to see what is causing the loss of power, is it an apr thing or Is something wrong with my car? Ie misfire, bad fuel pump .. Or am I just imagining it all!

Hoping that GuyH could shed some light here.


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Nothing sounds amiss & as mentioned by several other you need good data logs. Ambient & intake temperatures are two factors which always have to be taken into consideration when looking at the data. You can also look at your air mass - but the fuel trims will be a give away (as mentioned) of something out of whack.

Depending on your service history, when we are doing a 10 year old Polo (or any other 10 year old car), we recommend the following items be checked & replaced as a maintenance thing to ensure your software will work as intended.

Compression test
Boost hose condition test (look for oil softening) including all vacuum lines.
Air Mass Meter
Coolant Temperature sensor
Plugs (with correct gaps)


So often these days we find these items have deteriorated to a point where the car is far from optimal - tuned or not!

[Blue9N3]

Thanks Guy. So in other words, the apr tune doesn't normally "lose'power" unless something is amiss. Will do a bit of googling to work out how to check the afm and coolant temp
Sensor


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[h100vw]

You could measure the temp sensor with a multimeter but TBH VCDS is the way to go and it can see the MAF output too.

I have had a few MAFs that work one day and not the next. That's not a green light to replace it though before testing.

Gavin

[seangti]

Is your diverter valve all good? Not running the factory one still are you? The N75 died quite recently on my silver polo, though it's a huge difference in power, from having some to none, initially it was intermittent.

Gav/Guy, would it also be worth to log the requested and actual boost values??

[h100vw]

I'd do fuelling, boost and timing.

002, 031, 099
003, 020, 022
003, 115, 118.

This captures everything you need to see what's going on.

032, 111 for fuel trims.

Gavin

[Blue9N3]

Gav, might need to use something better than dashcommand for the logging ....

Sean, consistently Getting 1.2 bar so the n75 must be ok, but not always the power. Hard to explain, seems flat sometimes. Seems to point to either timing or leaking dv perhaps? Have a forge diverter lying around which I'll give a go.


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[h100vw]

If the DV is leaking boost will change.

Do you have an intercooler? My guess is heat soak. I don't know anything about dash command, I only use VCDS. There'll be someone nearby with a lead.

If the intake temps go out, it'll pull timing and go "flat". Most turbo cars are like it if you get stuck in traffic and then out into the open road. First couple of KM gets the heat out of the IC.

Gavin

[Blue9N3]

Good point about dv. No intercooler upgrade, only mods are intake pipe and apr.

Incidentally, are misfires always violent or can would they just feel like a slight loss of power? (Flat)


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