I don't have that issue on mine.there close but not touching and there not slanted.
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Installing aftermarket springs.
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Just found this. It has a bit on dead coils or inactive coils. So you should be fine.Originally posted by nomadx38 View PostSorry I really need more clarification than that. I have looked at both the H&R springs and the OEM and they can go in both ways (I even tried it). This doesn't effect the OEM springs becuase they have the same amount of coils throughout the whole length but the H&R have two types of compression so technically it only goes one way. I only ask becuase I have put them in (with the writing facing upright so you can read it) and this leaves the close coils up the top compleatly compressed (and thus doing nothing) and the wide coils at the bottom on a slant.
Just doesn't look right...but this my first time doing this kind of thing.
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You should do an alignment, toe, caster & camber all change with springs - so for better handling & tyre life - get a good alignment.
Generally up here (Brisbane) install & align varies from ~ $400 - $600 for springs on polo's & Golfs. I have heard of cheaper, but never seen the end results.
I think its going to be 3-4.5 hours total labour (including alignment) so at average good workshop charge out rates you can see how it works!
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It's your tyres & your $$$, so do as you please!
Gav's article refers to a car from the factory at factory height. This subject (I believe) was modifying the factory height, therefore you alter the parameters AND the alignment.
The Polo runs on the same basic suspension that has been under VW's since 1975. lower it, your steering geometry changes - fact.
1: Simple test. do a "before" alignment check on a modern digital / lazer aligner.
2: Lower the vehicle
3: Redo the alignment numbers.
If they are identical, send me your address & I'll send you a nice bottle of Scotch!
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Never said it would be identical or wouldn't affect geometry, but it shouldn't change the toe and I would bet any wager that 90% of the shops out there won't do a proper job at moving the sub frame to get it right and because of the substantial drop it still won't come in spec as the frame and lower joints have very little movement
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+1......Originally posted by nomadx38 View PostGot quoted $360 for labor and wheel alignment (which is not required) at Pedders so $600 is way too much. If you want you can do the rears by yourself (I did mine in 45 mins) and save yourself more money.
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Hmm just reading that thread got me thinking. As it stands i still believe there is no point adjusting the steering when lowering the suspention as there is no adjustment (except toe in - which lowering wouldn't effect because its vertical travel)
BUT I do fully agree with Guy H in saying that when ever the suspention geometry is changed a wheel alignment should be done (becuase the camber, and possibly caster will go out)
I ask this question then - what problems do I look at facing when I lower my front suspention? Theoretically I will get a lot of positive camber no? (Or negitive, I get confused) and this needs to be corrected - but there is no adjustment for the camber or caster on the Polos with McPherson struts...
Any ideas
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