What have you done with your Polo so far (and today)

[shorties178]

It's actually the reverse, with unlubricated threads and taper (on the bolt and the wheel) 120 Nm (at the tension wrench) is more like 100 Nm (that the bolt feels). The bolts are spec'd for 120 Nm of stretch, so if we only tighten them to a real world 100 Nm they are not tightened to their spec.

Plus the corrosion only gets worse if not cleaned and lubricated, so whilst the 100 Nm is the actual tightness it will take much more to undo the bolts. I've seen over 200 Nm required to undo badly corroded wheel and bolts.

Cheers
Gary

Have to disagree there Gary. Less rotational friction on a thread will allow it to advance further (thereby stretching the bolt more) for a given torque. I've read when using anti-seizes & such, torque values should be reduced by something like 20-25%, or else the bolt will be stretched beyond its elastic limit. In my experience lubricated wheel studs tend to collect extremely fine dust which turns the oil or whatever into a thick sticky grinding paste. I just carefully clean all studs with a wire brush before fitting & do the same to protruding threads before undoing a wheel nut to avoid picking up the thread.
Mick

[brad]

It's actually the reverse, with unlubricated threads and taper (on the bolt and the wheel) 120 Nm (at the tension wrench) is more like 100 Nm (that the bolt feels). The bolts are spec'd for 120 Nm of stretch, so if we only tighten them to a real world 100 Nm they are not tightened to their spec.

Plus the corrosion only gets worse if not cleaned and lubricated, so whilst the 100 Nm is the actual tightness it will take much more to undo the bolts. I've seen over 200 Nm required to undo badly corroded wheel and bolts.

Cheers
Gary

Sorry, I can't agree. Machineries Handbook doesn't agree. Bolt manufacturers don't agree. As I wrote, copper grease should be kept to a minimum and not touch the tapered seat. I'm talking just enough to make it look greasy and stop corrosion - you shouldn't actually see it. Even that is too much according to the "experts".

A quick google. para 3

https://www.tirerack.com/tires/tiretech/techpage.jsp?techid=107

Anyway, whatever, we all have our habits.

[Sydneykid]

For sure the ideal, new, technical, laboratory approach is to have perfectly clean, brand new, wheel nuts, bolts, threads, wheels and hubs but we live in the real world where corrosion due to moisture, brake pad dust, heat and electrolysis is a fact of life. After your wife/daughter/mother has made you drive hundreds of K's because they can't undo the wheel nuts to change a flat tyre due to corrosion, then you might understand why I clean and lubricate the wheel nuts/bolts. Of course I don't drown the nuts/bolts in lubricant, just enough to do the job.

The same applies to the race cars where we change wheels many times in a race weekend, often in a very short space of time, corrosion isn't an issue but thread galling, often a result of the heat differential, is definitely best avoided.


Cheers
Gary

[brad]

For sure the ideal, new, technical, laboratory approach is to have perfectly clean, brand new, wheel nuts, bolts, threads, wheels and hubs but we live in the real world where corrosion due to moisture, brake pad dust, heat and electrolysis is a fact of life. After your wife/daughter/mother has made you drive hundreds of K's because they can't undo the wheel nuts to change a flat tyre due to corrosion, then you might understand why I clean and lubricate the wheel nuts/bolts. Of course I don't drown the nuts/bolts in lubricant, just enough to do the job.

The same applies to the race cars where we change wheels many times in a race weekend, often in a very short space of time, corrosion isn't an issue but thread galling, often a result of the heat differential, is definitely best avoided.


Cheers
Gary

It's nothing to do with the laboratory. I work with civil construction jobs (these days). We don't allow lubricants on steel fabrications, pipe joins, pump cradles, etc. We do lubricate (grease filled caps) or denso (grease impregnated) tape exposed threads after assembly as a lot of our gear is in humid / damp conditions and we work on a 50 year minimum design life.

The spec of 120nm is naff-all. My 20yo daughter is 44kg and has no issues with it.

Race car... it's not out on the road, is it. You just said that you are doing the wheel nuts several times in a race weekend.

DDo what you like, I'm not trying to change your mind, just giving others something to think about.

[Sydneykid]

It's nothing to do with the laboratory. I work with civil construction jobs (these days). We don't allow lubricants on steel fabrications, pipe joins, pump cradles, etc. We do lubricate (grease filled caps) or denso (grease impregnated) tape exposed threads after assembly as a lot of our gear is in humid / damp conditions and we work on a 50 year minimum design life.
The spec of 120nm is naff-all. My 20yo daughter is 44kg and has no issues with it.
Race car... it's not out on the road, is it. You just said that you are doing the wheel nuts several times in a race weekend.
DDo what you like, I'm not trying to change your mind, just giving others something to think about.

Equally I'm not trying to change your mind, simply relating real world wheel nut/bolt experiences. It may well have been 120 nm when the wheel nuts/bolts were originally tightened, but after what could be years of galvanic corrosion/rust/oxidation between different metals, steel wheel nuts, alloy wheels etc, plus lots of heat, water and brake pad dust it is not unusual to find wheel nuts/bolts requiring multiple times that to undo. Which can be avoided with appropriate lubrication, that's been my experience, yours of course may be different.


Cheers
Gary

[KeithA]

Started to do full paint correction before applying a coating. Starting to look good

[BenT]

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[djh53]

Wanted to carry heavy loads in the back of my MY2010 77TSI without bending the cover over the spare, so bolted some square section underneath. It's held a bit over 80kg so far, with no sign of bending.

[Transporter]

Equally I'm not trying to change your mind, simply relating real world wheel nut/bolt experiences. It may well have been 120 nm when the wheel nuts/bolts were originally tightened, but after what could be years of galvanic corrosion/rust/oxidation between different metals, steel wheel nuts, alloy wheels etc, plus lots of heat, water and brake pad dust it is not unusual to find wheel nuts/bolts requiring multiple times that to undo. Which can be avoided with appropriate lubrication, that's been my experience, yours of course may be different.


Cheers
Gary

I’ve never seen someone to lose the wheel, when properly fitted and where the wheel bolts were properly lubricated and tensioned.

There are specific greases that aid to correct tightening torques, though there is no need to use them on the wheel bolts, you can just clean the bolt threads with the WD40 (it’s actually a better cleaner than lube), wipe the excess and tighten the bolts properly with the wheel of the ground. You can use the lube with the right solid lubricant and they will come off easy even after the years of driving in the humid conditions.

[Sydneykid]

I’ve never seen someone to lose the wheel, when properly fitted and where the wheel bolts were properly lubricated and tensioned.

There are specific greases that aid to correct tightening torques, though there is no need to use them on the wheel bolts, you can just clean the bolt threads with the WD40 (it’s actually a better cleaner than lube), wipe the excess and tighten the bolts properly with the wheel of the ground. You can use the lube with the right solid lubricant and they will come off easy even after the years of driving in the humid conditions.

It seems that we are in heated agreement then

Cheers
Gary

[BenT]

I tried to polish my 2015 GTI using a random orbital sander (with polishing pad attached of course) but it basically had no effect on swirl and water marks because the second I applied any pressure it would stop spinning.

Wrong tool for the job, so now I’m on the lookout for a dual-action polisher like they sell at Apex Customs. I’d be happy with a second hand one but i can’t find any.


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[Eggmcmuffin1]

here's my 6r TDI that i've had for a few weeks. Really happy with it so far

Only done a few things so far since picking it up:

oil change, replaced fuel filter + diesel purge, upgraded air filter, replaced cabin filter, installed aftermarket headunit and reverse camera in number plate light, painted front and rear vw badge and gave it a good wash today

[BenT]

here's my 6r TDI that i've had for a few weeks. Really happy with it so far

Only done a few things so far since picking it up:

oil change, replaced fuel filter + diesel purge, upgraded air filter, replaced cabin filter, installed aftermarket headunit and reverse camera in number plate light, painted front and rear vw badge and gave it a good wash today

Looks very tidy. Congrats on the purchase!




Ben
Now: ‘19 VW Golf R, ‘15 Polo GTI
Before: ‘06 RenaultSport Megane 225 Cup, ‘14 VW Polo GTI, ‘12 VW Golf GTI, ‘06 VW Golf GTI, ‘05 VW Golf Sportline, ‘01 Holden Astra SRi, ‘00 Nissan Pulsar SSS, ‘99 Holden Astra CD, ‘98 Nissan Pulsar SLX, ‘91 Nissan Pulsar GL with Q engine swap, ‘80 Subaru Leone

[polomesa]

have a go at this for DA polisher

Shine Mate 15mm DA Polisher Kit

– Waxit Car Care

I bought one for correction. Works really well.

[polomesa]

Hey mi16,

did the liqui moly decarb make any difference to engine response?