Custom R36 Cold Air RAM intake - Almost $0 DIY or small fee to get it done

[Elmura]

had a quick look at the inlet, I think the "blade" serves it's purpose, to prevent water getting into the air box. Imaging you driving at 100km/p in heavy rain or using pressure water to wash your car...

I did consider this also and have since tested it many times including pressure washing. Worst case scenario some water settles on the bottom front of your airbox which is very deep. This will evaporate with engine bay heat and be inhaled as additional water vapour like a humid day.
You would have to drive through a flood before it would cause a problem.

PS - the same scenario applies for Lamborghini / Ferrari / Mclaren / Koennigsegg etc. If it's OK for them, it's OK for me and should be OK for modifiers.

#Eurobahn - Have you monitored intake air temperature before and after this intake mod? In my prior custom intake mod version whereby I had a much larger POD filter fed with a directed stream of air from the factory scoop, I found IAT skyrocketed in traffic / idling. It would take high speed driving to get any benefit. It's not really a cold air intake.

Also, Eurobahn, did you get any errors from the Cat changeover? Did you have to fit resistors or ceramic bungs over the post Cat O2 sensors?

[eurobahn5]

Yes you are right Elmura, my air intake is now being revised, it has a great induction noise and can really gulp in lots of air but I need to capture and enclose the ducting right to the front grille intake. I am making a cardboard model then I will take it to my plastics fabricator. As for the cats, it hasn't tripped any lights yet...

[Elmura]

#Elmura
Haha, keep up the updates & I don't mind the crossover of topics, really keen on the centre muffler delete & now the vacuum bypass. Where did you get the quality one from?
I have seen the ones on eBay & wondered.. My Ol man is looking to get one for his hotrod also...
What sort of timeframe are you thinking for your prototype for the R36 / CC RAM design? After the house build of course.


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The type of exhaust valve I currently use with moderate satisfaction can be found on eBay with this search term "vacuum exhaust valve close". This type stays closed until activated when engine vacuum can instantly open it, and closes instantly as well.
The mechanism is tough & reliable. The problems with this product are:

1. The valve vibrates when the engine is loaded while it's closed. It's not a pleasant sound. I've tried glueing rubber strips, Sikaflex, weather sealant, increasing the spring tension, and washers on the end screws. The last two reduced the vibration, the others failed after a full throttle run.

2. To open it requires low or no throttle. So, at lights, coasting or cruising. To open the rest of the time, I have to release the throttle briefly, then get back on it. To overcome this, I designed a compact vacuum reservoir that mounted close to the valve. I bought all the materials but haven't gotten around to building & fitting it. Probably because problem 1 is far more annoying.

As for size, the electric motor operated valve I had first was 2.5". This was a little smaller than the exhaust pipe. After that failed (quickly) I went looking for a vacuum operated one as the electric motor & gearbox is slow to open & close. It vibrated during the transition.

The vacuum model I chose was 3". A bit larger than the exhaust pipe (70mm) which requires a bit of pipe expansion to mate up. The idea was better gas flow. In retrospect, maybe a 2.5" won't vibrate as much, and since it's too loud with the 3", maybe the 2.5" would be tamer.

So, my expense & experience is hopefully beneficial to others.

PS- Some American "exhaust cutout" look better engineered.

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